I yanked my Quadrajet in favor of a non-cc setup.

My distributor was bad so I replaced it with a lifetime warranty HEI from Kragen. It is for a 75' Chevy Pickup with a 350 4 barrel. Where could I find the advance #'s and such for this distributor or the stock one in a Chevy 3/4 ton pickup with the motor setup above?

 

There's no such thing as "a curve" for a "stock", let alone a "replacement", distributor. Virtually every single application had a distributor specifically tailored to it. Trucks usually got the worst curves of all, since it was assumed that instead of accelerating, they would be producing steady-state power.

But then of course, who knows what you got from a rebuilder; it might or might not actually be all the same parts that would have come in it when it was new. More than likely, it's not; it's just a sort of average of all the parts they had in theri core bin at the moment.

Only thing you can do is measure what you've got.

 

Measure what I've got.....Are the odds that I am getting a total of 20 degrees of mechanical advance or what? I am going to get an advance timing light to figure out my total advance....my vacuum canister is giving me a standard 20 degrees, as it's stamped on there.

The car is not responding like it used to. The curve is all off.

 

I wouldn't even want to try to guess what it's giving you. There's just altogether too many possibilities.

Get a curve kit. An ideal curve would have somewhere around 10-12° static advance, 22-26° of mechanical advance, and 10-12° of vacuum advance from a ported source on top of that. 20° of vac is probably too much; that tends to make it run great on the highway, but ping on tip-in when cruising, where you have to give it more gas to make it quit rattling.

 

What do you mean you wouldn't want to guess? All I want to know is if all stock, or replacement oem distributors in the early 70's gave a max of 20 degrees of Mechanical advance.

BTW: i have a kit on it already. i just swapped everything over from the old dist. I set the timing the same way as I did with the old dist> ( set it @ 700 rpm with the stock stiff springs, then put the desired looser springs on) and it was pinging pretty bad because my old canister was giving me 12 or 14 degrees of advance ( can't remember, but it was one of the 2) and the new distributor is giving me 20*.

 

That's exactly what we have no way at all of knowing. There is no one single answer. Every motor, in every car, had a different curve; different stops, different cam, different weights, different springs. The shape of the cam and the shape of the part of the weights that work against the cam will limit the advance, just like those slots will; in fact, it's really rare to find a cam/weight combo that allows the full travel of the length of the slot.

All you can do is measure it. But I can pretty much guarantee that it isn't going to be optimum.