Planning a Minirammed 383: Insight needed.

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Jul 31, 2000 | 08:26 PM
  #1  
Okay experts,
I just put a deposit on a fully ported Miniram with 58mm throttle body and balanced 30 lb injectors.

I have in my garage, on the engine stand, a 4-bolt main 383 block with 5.565" con rods, cast crank, and forged pistons. I also have a set of roller retrofit lifters for the engine, but have not yet picked out the EFI computer, cam, or cylinder heads.

How would I best utilize the miniram with said shortblock? This will back up a 700R4, be normally aspirated, and will rev to 6250 RPM. Would AFR 190's be the best choice? How about cam? .540 inches of lift, 230 degrees duration @ .050" ??

Should I go FP performance, so that I can individualy trim each injector's pulse width?

What do you think?


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Daniel Burk
http://www.isthq.com/~dan/fcar.html
'84 Trans Am WS6/L69
KB SFC, Moser axles, Torsen Diff. PST suspension, Braided stainless brake lines,
5-point racing harness, Koni struts, 11-inch rear disks,Spohn Adj. torque arm,
Ported 305 heads w/1.94"intake valves, Comp Cams XE262H, Griffen alum. radiator,
Speed-sensitive steering conversion, underdrive pulleys, Crane Hi-6 & more. 1.05g skidpad verified.
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Jul 31, 2000 | 08:46 PM
  #2  
Sounds fine. I don't think you need any insight...Also sounds familiar, except for my Vortech.

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1989 Formula 350, 10.5:1 383", TFS heads, Comp Cams blower grind, TPIS Mini-Ram, BBK 58mm throttle body, Vortech S-trim 15 psi, DFI, 42# injectors, S/X fuel system, MSD ignition, SLP 1.75" headers, Flowmaster exhaust, MW Racehouse 700R4, Currie 9" w/3.50 gears, Jeg's sfc's, Jeg's lca's, S&W 8-point rollbar, lookin' stock street racer...

Best ET: 10.796 @ 125.8 on 16" Sportsmans...
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Aug 1, 2000 | 12:50 AM
  #3  
I am building the same motor, so lets make a deal and send eachother all the info we get. As for heads, I have heard that the Brodiz track heads are a better choice than the AFRs are.

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1987 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z
L98 TPI 350 (5.7L)
TH 700R-4 Transmission

Current Mods: Edelbrock TES Headers, Hooker Cat-Back System, Performance Resource Chip, 160* Thermostat, Accel 8.8mm Ignition Wires, K&N high flow air filters, gutted air box, gutted MAF sensor, Throttle Body Coolant By-Pass, Homemade Ram-Air, Falken ZIEX Z-Rated Tires.

1/4 mile times without chip:
Best ET: 15.7 @ 89MPH
Best Corrected ET: 14.5 @ 96MPH
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Aug 1, 2000 | 05:48 AM
  #4  
Why do you think the Brodix are a better cylinder head? Combustion chamber design? out-of-the-box flow? Price? What's better? Perhaps this is worth taking to a different thread.

My 383 engine project is going to take about 18 months to complete. Expect it to start running in the spring of 2002. I still need to tear down the shortblock, magnaflux everything, and have the reciprocating assembly inspected shot peened, and balanced. Since the bores still have crosshatch from the last rebuild, it looks like a relatively low-mileage 383 conversion so it might not cost much to finish. I'm concerned about using a cast crank & the short 400 rods at 6250 RPM and 425 horsepower... Anyone have any experience?

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Aug 1, 2000 | 07:48 AM
  #5  
Quote:
Originally posted by ws6transam:
Why do you think the Brodix are a better cylinder head? Combustion chamber design? out-of-the-box flow? Price? What's better? Perhaps this is worth taking to a different thread.

My 383 engine project is going to take about 18 months to complete. Expect it to start running in the spring of 2002. I still need to tear down the shortblock, magnaflux everything, and have the reciprocating assembly inspected shot peened, and balanced. Since the bores still have crosshatch from the last rebuild, it looks like a relatively low-mileage 383 conversion so it might not cost much to finish. I'm concerned about using a cast crank & the short 400 rods at 6250 RPM and 425 horsepower... Anyone have any experience?

ws,

It's probably wise to be concerned about the 400 rods going to 6250 RPM. I think the crank is marginal at that RPM too. Have you considered the GM powdered metal 5.7 rods ?

I've seen them advertised as low as $146 for eight. That is very cheap insurance, especially since they're rated to 450 HP. Also, the SCAT crank (new) is only $269 from Jegs. So, for an additional $415, you can build a reliable 6,250 RPM motor.

You've got forged pistons, right?

Good luck.

BOR

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Aug 1, 2000 | 01:50 PM
  #6  
I've got brand new ported Track 1 heads for sale cheap, if interested.
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Aug 1, 2000 | 08:57 PM
  #7  
The pistons are stamped with a number: 2244P. I'm hoping that these are forged! If not, then you are probably right: Replace the reciprocating assembly with a SCAT crank, GM "pink" PM rods, and forged pistons.

I might just place this assembly into a different block (I have two) and sell it as a stroker torque TPI engine.

As for the Track 1 heads, sorry! I have a monthly budget that I (unsuccessfully) try to stay in. Currently, I won't be able to get the heads until mid-2001. I'm going to budget $1500 for the heads.

[This message has been edited by ws6transam (edited August 01, 2000).]
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