Blowing fuse

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May 21, 2003 | 06:16 PM
  #1  
I am not too good at the electrical stuff. So any help would be appreciated.

I keep blowing the same fuse as soon as I replace it. It is the fuse that controls the horn, radio, door locks and hatch pull down. Any ideas were I can start researching this?

This is for my '87 Trans Am.
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May 21, 2003 | 06:21 PM
  #2  
Thats the Accessories fuse. Does it blow after anything in particular, like hitting a switch? Or does it just blow when you turn the car on?
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May 21, 2003 | 08:11 PM
  #3  
Blows right when I put it in or when I rehook up the battery.
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May 21, 2003 | 08:31 PM
  #4  
do you have a digital multimeter?
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May 21, 2003 | 08:38 PM
  #5  
you most likely have a broken wire running from the + side of your battery touching a metal part on your car. it might take a lot of looking to find it. did you recently wire up anything ?
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May 21, 2003 | 08:47 PM
  #6  
Quote:
Originally posted by rustybluebird
you most likely have a broken wire running from the + side of your battery touching a metal part on your car. it might take a lot of looking to find it. did you recently wire up anything ?
Its not gonna be broken, chances are its insulation will be worn away or cracked. Same idea though.
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May 21, 2003 | 10:52 PM
  #7  
The last thing wired up was the Kenwood stereo 4 months ago.

I do not have a digital multimeter. However I assume I will use the to test the wires to find where my short is.
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May 21, 2003 | 11:00 PM
  #8  
this seems fairly helpful.
http://jarmac.picarefy.com/spitfire/electricaltest.html
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May 21, 2003 | 11:01 PM
  #9  
re fuse blown
hey guy

i had about the same thing happen and it turn out to be my cig lighter was shorted out. check it and see what happens. also how did you wire in that stereo with tape or butt splices?
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May 21, 2003 | 11:18 PM
  #10  
The stereo was professionally done. So butt slices were used.
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May 22, 2003 | 10:00 AM
  #11  
Quote:
Originally posted by azvolfan
The stereo was professionally done. So butt slices were used.
"Professional" only means it was done for money, not necessarily that it was done well. Personally, I dislike Sta-Kons (crimp-type butt splices) for anything exposed to weather, low level signals, and higher current use. A "profesional" installation might use butt-splices, but an "expert" installation would use a line splice, solder, and shrink tubing.

As for you blown fuse, check for coins in the lighter. You can also disconnect devices one at a time to help isolate teh problem, but a DMM is going to be a lot cheaper than ten boxes of fuses and some smoked wiring.
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May 22, 2003 | 11:33 AM
  #12  
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Vader
[B]"Professional" only means it was done for money, not necessarily that it was done well. Personally, I dislike Sta-Kons (crimp-type butt splices) for anything exposed to weather, low level signals, and higher current use. A "profesional" installation might use butt-splices, but an "expert" installation would use a line splice, solder, and shrink tubing. [QUOTE][i]


I agree with you vader. a mechanical bond is the best way to do it along with the heat shrink tubing. the technician @ my part time job(i work on video games and juke boxes) always says A BAD CONNECTION IS THE ROUTE OF ALL EVIL IN ELECTRONICS
or a cold solder joint
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May 22, 2003 | 01:16 PM
  #13  
Quote:
Originally posted by Vader
[B

As for you blown fuse, check for coins in the lighter. [/B]
A coin will do it, but also make sure that there isnt any old build up crusty **** that tends to grow in our lighters, that will do it too. Disconnect the whole thing if you have too.
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May 22, 2003 | 04:54 PM
  #14  
I am going to go for the disconnect on the lighter. I don't smoke and don't allow people to smoke in my cars anyway.
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