Heater core bypass successful.
Heater core bypass successful.
Went out to local parts store, grabbed a 5/8" to 3/4" heater hose connector, and two caps. Hoses were a little tough to get out of the firewall, but they were less than a year old...so it wasn't too bad. All in all, took about 15 minutes. The shop wanted $600 to replace the core (OUTRAGEOUS), so for now this bypass should do the trick. Later this summer I'll try my hand at replacing the core myself. Since I don't have to put in a new core, my next check can go towards SFCs 
-Anthony Helton

-Anthony Helton
$600.00? By the book, which includes taking out the console and dash. If the mechanic had any brains at all he could do it in under 2 hours WITHOUT removing the console and dash.
It took me 1 1/2 hours the first time, and numerous others have done it at a similar rate. Do a search. Heater core replacement is fairly easy. If you figured out and completed the bypass yourself, you can replace the heater core. If the search returns no useful info, PM for details.
It took me 1 1/2 hours the first time, and numerous others have done it at a similar rate. Do a search. Heater core replacement is fairly easy. If you figured out and completed the bypass yourself, you can replace the heater core. If the search returns no useful info, PM for details.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 603
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
Car: 1985 Iroc-z
Engine: 355 sbc
Transmission: 700r4
i just recently (within the past 2 months) removed and installed new heater cores so i can also help. And, a heater core with a lifetime warranty, $19.99. $600? I would like to have what that guy is smoking.
i've done this twice in the past two years, the first time in 2 hours when i had to saw off the old core copper tubing to free the hoses, and again on the new car because it was bad when i got it, and that took under an hour.
i've posted the details of the method i used before, so you can search for them, but the best trick is to go to walmart or an auto parts store and get a 12"-18" long flexible extension. it's basically a big spring. but it works wonders, since you can aim it over the top of the cover to get that top center screw off. that's why the shops have ridiculous prices, they take the dash off to get it. that's not necessary. even regular extensions will work, but the flexible saves a lot of time. also get a magnetic extension so the 7mm socket can hold the screw in more easily when you go to reassemble.
the core itself is like $20-30, so you'll save tons of cash doing this yourself.
i've posted the details of the method i used before, so you can search for them, but the best trick is to go to walmart or an auto parts store and get a 12"-18" long flexible extension. it's basically a big spring. but it works wonders, since you can aim it over the top of the cover to get that top center screw off. that's why the shops have ridiculous prices, they take the dash off to get it. that's not necessary. even regular extensions will work, but the flexible saves a lot of time. also get a magnetic extension so the 7mm socket can hold the screw in more easily when you go to reassemble.
the core itself is like $20-30, so you'll save tons of cash doing this yourself.
I live in the San Fran. bay area, so I was expecting $350-$400. When he told me between $600-$800 I asked him why so much. He gave me some crap about the condition of the AC, and whether or not the freon needs to be recharged. Does that have ANYTHING to do with the heater core? This guy sounds like an out and out crook!
-Anthony Helton
-Anthony Helton
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 603
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
Car: 1985 Iroc-z
Engine: 355 sbc
Transmission: 700r4
no the ac system runs off a totally different system, that has absolutely NOTHING to deal with a heater core replacement.
tell him hes full of $hit.
tell him hes full of $hit.
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Supreme Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,308
Likes: 0
From: Avondale, AZ
Car: currently thirdgenless!!!
The bypass was the same route I took for a couple of months. And just like Patrick I had a heck of a time getting the old hoses off the copper tubes of the heater core. Here is a little tip. When you get around to putting the heater core back in, take some lithium grease and coat the inside ends of the heater hose. That will keep it from feeling like it fused to the copper tubes.
my problem with the old hoses was that those spring-loaded clips were on them, and i had no appropriate tool or even access to get to them, so i used a 6" open ended hacksaw and just cut them at the firewall and pulled them out of the hoses with pliers. (replacing an old, worn hose would also be appropriate). if you fool with the clamps for more than 10 minutes, just cut.
the A/C has NOTHING to do with the heater core.
both of my cars cores went around 120k-140k. i didn't worry about lithium grease because if it gets to 250k and i need to do it again, i'll suck it up and saw.
the A/C has NOTHING to do with the heater core.
both of my cars cores went around 120k-140k. i didn't worry about lithium grease because if it gets to 250k and i need to do it again, i'll suck it up and saw.
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,781
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From: B'ville, WV
Car: 2002 Formula Firebird
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4l60e
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Heater core isnt that bad. You can get it without removing the dash.
You can get all the bolts on the heater core housing off except the top one without removing the dash...so you know what you do. TUG. Just break it. Saves you tons of time and missing one bolt in the case isnt going to hurt. Makes it easier the next time you change it to
You can get all the bolts on the heater core housing off except the top one without removing the dash...so you know what you do. TUG. Just break it. Saves you tons of time and missing one bolt in the case isnt going to hurt. Makes it easier the next time you change it to
Originally posted by 88Camaro350
Heater core isnt that bad. You can get it without removing the dash.
You can get all the bolts on the heater core housing off except the top one without removing the dash...so you know what you do. TUG. Just break it. Saves you tons of time and missing one bolt in the case isnt going to hurt. Makes it easier the next time you change it to
Heater core isnt that bad. You can get it without removing the dash.
You can get all the bolts on the heater core housing off except the top one without removing the dash...so you know what you do. TUG. Just break it. Saves you tons of time and missing one bolt in the case isnt going to hurt. Makes it easier the next time you change it to
Don't cheap out
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