If you had 3000$ CAN, roughly 2200 US.. and had a goal of around 300-325 HP (probably not RWHP), how would you go about?

I have a 91 GTA with a 305 TPI 4-speed Auto (700R4)
I basically will be putting in roughly 3 Large and was wondering what the best HP/$ there is.. exhaust, headers.. the easiest, cheapest and most effective.

I know I could use the "search" button, but I'd have to do A HELL of alot of reading, mostly for nothing..

I know you guys can help me, most of you are experts.. thx boys ('n ladiez)

 

Dollar for dollar (Canadian or otherwise), you'll generally realize the greatest gains in the heads and cam profile. You can spend $500+ on an exhaust system and gain 20HP on a good day, maybe. You can spend $500 on heads and gain 80HP. $400 for a cam kit may gain you another 80HP, depending on what you are replacing. Of course, once you do that, you'll want that exhaust system to get the most out of you heads an cam, but that's just the nature of the game.

For $3k, you should be able to get an entire 350, ready to go and well built.

 

Yeah, you're laughing!

$1500 should get you a good rebuilt 350 shortblock. With the rest you can port and polish a set of 305 heads, buy a decent street cam and a good intake. Depending on the types of prices you pay, you might have enough for headers.

 

What kind of Headers should I be looking into that give me 80 HP?
I looked @ SLPs website, and theirs give about 20 horses for around 3-4 bills.. WTF?

 

SLP are the best headers that you will find. You won't find any set of headers that give you 80 HP. I got about 30 hp from my headers and catback together.

 

well then, I restate my original question..
what is the best + easiest way to get 300 HP from 205 (stock)??
so if I go with new headers (20 HP) + Cam(20HP) + Exhaust (10HP) there's 50.. what's best way to get the other 50?

thx

 

Vader said heads will give you 80 hpand header will yield about 20hp.

And if you're looking for a real budget, you can pick up Hedman long tube headers 1 5/8 for $100. It will take some work to hook it to the rest of the exhaust.

 

i would say, beefin up your TPI. SLP runners, plenum (walls knocked out), throttlebody, and a new intake hp manifold. You'll probably want to get bigger injectors too. or maybe pull the tpi and get Stealth ram (more expensive).

depending on head work, and cam, you could probably get more hp than you are guesstimating.

 

If you think like an advertiser, you can "stretch" some pretty wild HP gain figures from almost anything. Maybe "80HP" was a W.A.G., but to maximize the claims, here's what many companies do:

Build a 426 SBC. Fill it with 12½:1 slugs on 5.7" rods. Bolt those to a 3-7/8" forged crank held in by splayed bolts. Cap it with Dart Conquest 220 heads and a Victor intake. Strap on a Demon, then stuff all that through stock cast iron exhaust manifolds and a 2" 'Y' pipe as long as you can make.

Run your pathetic little dyno test.

Then trash the cast manifolds and bolt on the perfectly port-matched and tuned headers you're trying to sell. Head back to the test room and see how much more power you can make. Then "round" it off and start selling advertising...

THAT'S how advertised power gains work.

 

If you can, go to a swap meet. They have 350 blocks for $100 and cranks for $50. then get a set of rods, pistons, heads, intake, cam, carb and all that other stuff to complete it. That should make about 350 HP depending on what you used. Or make a quick trip to the junk yard and see if you can find an LT1 out of a smashed up fourth gen. Good luck with whatever you do.

 

although I do like the idea of an LT1.. I'd rather keep the car to what it was meant to look like, just with an added kick
I COULD slap on some 18" chromes.. but I'd rather keep the GTA rims..
I want to keep it as stock looking as possible, other than tint and an exhaust..

but thanx anyways..
well.. I'm just starting to get into all this car talk, so for now, you guys are blowin me apart, I've heard of most of these things, but damned if I know what they are, I'm more of a computer guy.. with a nice car

so anyways, thx boys.. it'll only be in a few months anyways, I just wanted to get a good start on things.. now to research the car lingo

peace

 

In those terms, the parallel is using a P4-266MHz without a cache, and the coprocessor disabled.

Unfortunately, you can't "turn on" a new camshaft in the BIOS setup screens, and can't "enable" larger valves and new heads with just the click of a mouse. If you could see how dirty my garage PC keyboard is, you'd have an idea of what you're in for...

 

P4 starts @ 1.4 GHZ.. now, if you're talkin P2 or celeron, then you can have 266 mhz, but not a P4..
but I get it.. I guess