winter storage
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Joined: May 2003
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From: Ottawa
winter storage
i live in canada, and will be attending university in the fall
i will be keeping my most treasured camaro, 5.7L 350, carb
she's gonna be going into heated/pest free storage
concrete floor
other then taking the battery out, topping up the gas and gas no gel additive, what should i do?
-mark-
i will be keeping my most treasured camaro, 5.7L 350, carb
she's gonna be going into heated/pest free storage
concrete floor
other then taking the battery out, topping up the gas and gas no gel additive, what should i do?
-mark-
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Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 19,655
Likes: 309
Berk,
WOW! Planning ahead? The last of the snow piles has just recently melted....
I'm sure everyone will have an opinion, but here's mine.
If you're in heated storage, and since you're only storing it over the winter, you don't even need to remove the battery.
* Fully charge the battery. There's no reason to remove it if you're only storing for several months, and you'll need it to start the vehicle periodically (more later). As long as it's fully charged, it shouldn't freeze even in outdoor storage.
* DO NOT wash the car right before you put the wraps on it. The latent moisture will have fun with your car while you're away.
* If you have a fixed antenna, spin it off and put it in the cargo well so you can cover the car.
* Drain and change the engine and transmission fluids just before storage. Normal acid formation in oils will also wreak havoc in an idle assembly. Make sure all other fluid levels are at their safe maximum.
* The consensus of those on the board is to fill the fuel tank. For long-term storage, I would recommend draining the tank to about 1/8th full, but for seasonal storage it isn't a factor as long as you use a fuel stabilizer like Sta-Bil or a similar product at your last fillup.
* Replace the coolant or enhance the heck out of it with corrosion inhibitors.
* Suspend the vehicle on jack stands from the box channels on the body instead of letting it rest on the suspension.
* Put a 9x11 cake pan on the front passenger floor to catch the coolant drips from the heater core if it rots through.
* Put fly paper or insect traps on some flat interior surfaces.
* Close the windows and doors tight. Keep the car out of light as much as possible. If you decide to cover it, make sure the first layer is a lightweight breathable material. If you want to keep the paint as clean as possible, lay out some cotton bath towels over the flat surfaces of the hood and roof (over the lightweight cover), then cover it with a plastic tarp.
It would be best if you could get back to it at least once a month or so and run it to full operating temperature, operate all the accessories, move the steering and brakes, then store it again. There is usually at least one decent day every month during the winter weekends to enable you to do this. If you don't have that opportunity, you may have some work to do when you do pull it out of storage. If you can start it and warm it over the couple of breaks you jave during the semester, you'll be fine.
Starting periodically has several benefits. The oils get warmed enough to keep water from condensing in the sumps. The entire engine gets a heat/cool cycle to dry out and distribute oil everywhere. The transmission can be shifted through the ranges to allow fluid flow through most of the valve body and cause movement of parts that might otherwise stick. All the 'O' rings and seals get warmed and wet with oil. The battery gets a load and then fully charged to exercise it. The exhaust system gets purged of moisture. The cooling system gets full coolant flow to prevent debris from settling in pockets in the heads, case, and heater core. the air conditioner can be cycled to keep all the seals wet with refrigerant oil. If the weather is really decent, you can even lower and move the car to exercise the steering and suspension.
The jack stands aren't essential. It is a good idea if the car is going to be stored for a period of years instead of months. I've done several of my cars, and letting them sit on the tires isn't a big problem. Nylon belted tires (like most 'Z' rated ones) will tend to take a "set" from sitting all winter, but if you warm the tires slowly by driving easily when the first nice spring day arrives, you can eliminate any permanent effects. It helps to fully inflate the tires before storage to minimize the effect. I take mine to 44 PSI if they are going to sit on the tires.
WOW! Planning ahead? The last of the snow piles has just recently melted....
I'm sure everyone will have an opinion, but here's mine.
If you're in heated storage, and since you're only storing it over the winter, you don't even need to remove the battery.
* Fully charge the battery. There's no reason to remove it if you're only storing for several months, and you'll need it to start the vehicle periodically (more later). As long as it's fully charged, it shouldn't freeze even in outdoor storage.
* DO NOT wash the car right before you put the wraps on it. The latent moisture will have fun with your car while you're away.
* If you have a fixed antenna, spin it off and put it in the cargo well so you can cover the car.
* Drain and change the engine and transmission fluids just before storage. Normal acid formation in oils will also wreak havoc in an idle assembly. Make sure all other fluid levels are at their safe maximum.
* The consensus of those on the board is to fill the fuel tank. For long-term storage, I would recommend draining the tank to about 1/8th full, but for seasonal storage it isn't a factor as long as you use a fuel stabilizer like Sta-Bil or a similar product at your last fillup.
* Replace the coolant or enhance the heck out of it with corrosion inhibitors.
* Suspend the vehicle on jack stands from the box channels on the body instead of letting it rest on the suspension.
* Put a 9x11 cake pan on the front passenger floor to catch the coolant drips from the heater core if it rots through.
* Put fly paper or insect traps on some flat interior surfaces.
* Close the windows and doors tight. Keep the car out of light as much as possible. If you decide to cover it, make sure the first layer is a lightweight breathable material. If you want to keep the paint as clean as possible, lay out some cotton bath towels over the flat surfaces of the hood and roof (over the lightweight cover), then cover it with a plastic tarp.
It would be best if you could get back to it at least once a month or so and run it to full operating temperature, operate all the accessories, move the steering and brakes, then store it again. There is usually at least one decent day every month during the winter weekends to enable you to do this. If you don't have that opportunity, you may have some work to do when you do pull it out of storage. If you can start it and warm it over the couple of breaks you jave during the semester, you'll be fine.
Starting periodically has several benefits. The oils get warmed enough to keep water from condensing in the sumps. The entire engine gets a heat/cool cycle to dry out and distribute oil everywhere. The transmission can be shifted through the ranges to allow fluid flow through most of the valve body and cause movement of parts that might otherwise stick. All the 'O' rings and seals get warmed and wet with oil. The battery gets a load and then fully charged to exercise it. The exhaust system gets purged of moisture. The cooling system gets full coolant flow to prevent debris from settling in pockets in the heads, case, and heater core. the air conditioner can be cycled to keep all the seals wet with refrigerant oil. If the weather is really decent, you can even lower and move the car to exercise the steering and suspension.
The jack stands aren't essential. It is a good idea if the car is going to be stored for a period of years instead of months. I've done several of my cars, and letting them sit on the tires isn't a big problem. Nylon belted tires (like most 'Z' rated ones) will tend to take a "set" from sitting all winter, but if you warm the tires slowly by driving easily when the first nice spring day arrives, you can eliminate any permanent effects. It helps to fully inflate the tires before storage to minimize the effect. I take mine to 44 PSI if they are going to sit on the tires.
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