Here's the scenario guys. I get home, cut my car off to check the oil, check the oil and add some, 10 minutes later I try to start it, it won't turn over.
I clean the terminals of the battery.
It won't turn over.
I check the wires to the starter.
It won't turn over.
I replace the starter anyway, because it is under warranty.
It won't turn over.
One semi-reputable guy told me it was most likely the ignition switch under the dash. I bought the part (only about $18), and went to replace it, but you have to lower the steering column. Neither my Chilton's or my Hane's manual gives a good description of lowering the steering column. They tell how to remove it, but I just want to lower one portion (if that is possible at all).

Does that guy have me chasing a 1 in a million chance that it is the ignition switch? Could it be the tumbler lock switch? The accessory position hasn't worked on it in quite a while. Since whatever happened happened all at once, I think it is probably electrical.

So tell me, should I replace my ignition switch first? If so, how do I lower the steering column? What is most likely the problem.

Oh, and I have to be in class at 11:30 tomorrow, so I need help fast. Thanks in advance for any info anyone can provide.

Jeff

 

JDB,

Before you replace the switch, and if you have a tilt steering column, place the tilt mechanism in the lowest position and try starting again. Also, if you have an automatic transmission, try starting in Neutral instead of PARK, on the odd chance that the safety switch is failing or out of adjustment. If you have a manual transmission, make sure the clutch pedal safety switch is being closed when the pedal is depressed.

The key cylinder doesn't have a switch behind it. It connects to the column-mounted ignition switch through a rack and pinion set and linkage rods through the column outer jacket. Before you do anything, disconnect the battery if you have a SIR (air bag) in your steering wheel.

If you remove the lower trim panel under the dash you should see two nuts holding a cradle that is welded to the upper end of the column. Remove the nuts and carefully lower the column, making sure you don't snare any wires or linkages. The column should flex through the firewall seal enough to gain access to the switch. The ignition switch is mounted on the top of the outer column tube, so you may have to do a little bending and twisting to reach the bolts holding the switch. Be careful of the switch actuating rods. If you drop one out of position, you'll end up disassembling the column to replace it.

There is also a chance that the sector portion of the linkage is failing. I have one of these split on me and had a Beotch of a time finding a replacement. It's just a die casting, and is not very sturdy. If you can turn the key fully but the linkage rods aren't moving, you may have this problem. Again, the repair for this would require disassembly of the column and tilt mechanism. I'm guessing you won't find a parts store with this item on a Sunday evening.

Let's hope it's just a Neutral safety switch.

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Later,
Vader
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"Make Me Bad"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0

 

Don't know if you have one, but the vats will not let the starter turn either. There should be a "Security" light on the dash that comes on when you turn on the key. If you have a "vats" system and the light does not come on, then I would check that. Anyone feel free to correct me if I am wrong, but I believe that is how to do a quick check of the "vats" system.

 

Thanks for the replies, guys.

Vader, I had already tried starting the car in neutral with the wheel tilted up and down. No dice. I guess I will lower the column and see what I can see.

I don't have a VATS system. My car is an 87 Z28 LB9.

Thank you both very much for the replies.

Jeff

 

You could always get a $5 remote starter switch and hook it to the solenoid, just to make sure the starter's supply wires are good. Make sure to pull your coil wire first, and keep yourself & the remote switch out of the way of the fanbelts...


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards

 

What vader said about the die cast arm in the column breaking....been there, done that. I think the kit from Pontiac was like 30 or 40 bucks for my grand prix...
was a PITA to get in too. Before i got it fixed, i took the actual switch loose from the column and hung it under the dash and started it with the rod that somes out of it. Looked really bad, but it was quick and worked till i could afford to fix it
p.s.--could be worse, my car wouldnt cut off either when mine broke :-D
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~Sp33d~
(sold)1989 2.8l 5-speed RedBird w/ flowmaster, cold air intake, TRW cam. Audio system includes-Cadence component plate 4x6's/Cadence 3way 6x9's,300watt amp to front speakers/400watt to Blaupunkt DVC 12" sub.

[This message has been edited by foo02 (edited October 02, 2000).]