starting problem also... need help
starting problem also... need help
what a coincidence, the first post i see is the one i'm about to write...
anyway, i turned the key this morning only to hear a single loud click which can also be felt, it takes two or three tries before the starter actually bumps the engine and a final try to start the engine altogether... what could be wrong? i reinstalled my distributor the other day so i was bumping the engine some, it started ok after that, it's just this morning that this click/bump/start thing happened... it seems the solenoid is engaging but no immediate cranking... wtf
anyway, i turned the key this morning only to hear a single loud click which can also be felt, it takes two or three tries before the starter actually bumps the engine and a final try to start the engine altogether... what could be wrong? i reinstalled my distributor the other day so i was bumping the engine some, it started ok after that, it's just this morning that this click/bump/start thing happened... it seems the solenoid is engaging but no immediate cranking... wtf
If you can feel the starter when you turn the key, then the solenoid is probably O.K. What you are probably feeling is the starter gear engaging into the fly - wheel. Sounds as though your starter either lacks enough guts, or current to turn over the engine. Check all your battery connections and starter connections. BTW, how far advanced is the timing? To far will cause a engine to want to kickback against the starter. Check the connections first.
Locry,
One of the purposes of the solenoid is to engage the starter pinion in the flywheel. The other is to close the electrical contacts that energize the starter motor. The large copper disc (washer) in the solenoid can fail long before the solenoid fails to engage the pinion. In that case, the starter makes the loud "click" with no cranking.
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Later,
Vader
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"Make Me Bad"
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One of the purposes of the solenoid is to engage the starter pinion in the flywheel. The other is to close the electrical contacts that energize the starter motor. The large copper disc (washer) in the solenoid can fail long before the solenoid fails to engage the pinion. In that case, the starter makes the loud "click" with no cranking.
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Later,
Vader
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"Make Me Bad"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0
hmmm, its not the timing, i disconnected the distribtr from the coil and it still doesn't crank with one click, it takes about 3 clicks for the starter to turn, so Vader, it's probably the contact disc? i've checked the connections, but which ones should i really pay attention to? and is the disc servicable? i mean can i clean it or something?
hmmm, its not the timing, i disconnected the distribtr from the coil and it still doesn't crank with one click, it takes about 3 clicks for the starter to turn, so Vader, it's probably the contact disc? i've checked the connections, but which ones should i really pay attention to? and is the disc servicable? i mean can i clean it or something?
Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 216
Likes: 0
From: Saugerties, NY, USA
Car: '89 Formula
Engine: 355 TPI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9 bolt.
If you disassemble the solenoid you can turn the disc over and use the fresh side. Save yourself a few bucks and a trip to the store... unless somebody already turned it over once.
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'89 Formula - Thunderchicken - 355 Vette L98/T-5/3.45 9-bolt/black/t-tops - the fun car!
'90 GTA - The GTA - 5.0 LB9/TH700/3.27 9-bolt/black/t-tops/tan leather - the cruiser.
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'89 Formula - Thunderchicken - 355 Vette L98/T-5/3.45 9-bolt/black/t-tops - the fun car!
'90 GTA - The GTA - 5.0 LB9/TH700/3.27 9-bolt/black/t-tops/tan leather - the cruiser.
Originally posted by Brian Shaughnessy:
If you disassemble the solenoid you can turn the disc over and use the fresh side. Save yourself a few bucks and a trip to the store... unless somebody already turned it over once.
If you disassemble the solenoid you can turn the disc over and use the fresh side. Save yourself a few bucks and a trip to the store... unless somebody already turned it over once.
That's a good suggestion (I've done it more than once myself) but the down side is that the repair may be short-lived. The stationary contacts take almost as much abuse as the moveable disc, and may not last as long as the fresh side of the copper washer. If it works, plan on a new solenoid in your future.
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Later,
Vader
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"Make Me Bad"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0
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i'll try to do disc flip thing, is there any trick to removing the solenoid? what do i have to be careful of? it's held by 2 screws i think, correct me if i'm wrong... and what should i pay attention to once its off? tnx guys...
oh yeah... do i have to remove the whole starter?
[This message has been edited by Locry (edited October 03, 2000).]
oh yeah... do i have to remove the whole starter?
[This message has been edited by Locry (edited October 03, 2000).]
Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 216
Likes: 0
From: Saugerties, NY, USA
Car: '89 Formula
Engine: 355 TPI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9 bolt.
Unhook battery. Unhook cables to solenoid.
Unscrew bolt from lower solenoid that holds the copper flat cable to the starter. Remove 2 screws that hold solenoid to the starter mount. Twist solenoid slightly to free the tang at the back and pull it out. The cap of the solenoid is only held on by a couple screws if memory serves me correctly and the disc will be under the cap.
Whether or not you have to remove the starter depends on your finger dexterity and available room (got headers?). Most of solenoid removal is necessary to drop the starter anyhow.
Anyway, like Vader says this might not last as long as the original but it'll get you out of the driveway and you'll know better next time.
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'89 Formula - Thunderchicken - 355 Vette L98/T-5/3.45 9-bolt/black/t-tops - the fun car!
'90 GTA - The GTA - 5.0 LB9/TH700/3.27 9-bolt/black/t-tops/tan leather - the cruiser.
Unscrew bolt from lower solenoid that holds the copper flat cable to the starter. Remove 2 screws that hold solenoid to the starter mount. Twist solenoid slightly to free the tang at the back and pull it out. The cap of the solenoid is only held on by a couple screws if memory serves me correctly and the disc will be under the cap.
Whether or not you have to remove the starter depends on your finger dexterity and available room (got headers?). Most of solenoid removal is necessary to drop the starter anyhow.
Anyway, like Vader says this might not last as long as the original but it'll get you out of the driveway and you'll know better next time.
------------------
'89 Formula - Thunderchicken - 355 Vette L98/T-5/3.45 9-bolt/black/t-tops - the fun car!
'90 GTA - The GTA - 5.0 LB9/TH700/3.27 9-bolt/black/t-tops/tan leather - the cruiser.
The solenoid engagement disk only contacts half of the stationary contact.
If you loosen the nut holding the stationary contact, you can rotate the contact 180 degrees, providing a fresh contact point for the flipped disk contact.
All new contact surfaces should last as long as the original.
If you loosen the nut holding the stationary contact, you can rotate the contact 180 degrees, providing a fresh contact point for the flipped disk contact.
All new contact surfaces should last as long as the original.
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