Starter problems????
Starter problems????
The engine doesnt turn over and its not the normal "click" you hear when the battery is totally dead and try to start it. The battery has juice, at least the dome lights and radio works.
But when you turn the key to start there is a lounder "clank" (just one) and then when you turn the key back, you hear the same clank just not as loud. It sounds like the gear on the sttarter is is clanking against the flywheel and not turning it and then the second clank is the starter gear coming back. Does this sound like a starter problem, we did just have a big decrease in tempratures......
Any ideas
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1986 Trans Am
305 TPI
"If it's not one thing, it's another!"
http://www2.hanover.edu/hierlmeier
But when you turn the key to start there is a lounder "clank" (just one) and then when you turn the key back, you hear the same clank just not as loud. It sounds like the gear on the sttarter is is clanking against the flywheel and not turning it and then the second clank is the starter gear coming back. Does this sound like a starter problem, we did just have a big decrease in tempratures......
Any ideas
------------------
1986 Trans Am
305 TPI
"If it's not one thing, it's another!"
http://www2.hanover.edu/hierlmeier
Yup, you need a new starter, chief. 
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AKA Pony Punisher II on all other boards.
89' Iroc-Z
ZZ3 short block-355 TPI ZZ9 cam
NOS 150 shot.
blah...blah...blah..
95' T-56, 6-speed
99' Z' rearend w/ 4.10's
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1997 black Trans AM
A4, bone stock except for the Flowmaster.

------------------
AKA Pony Punisher II on all other boards.
89' Iroc-Z
ZZ3 short block-355 TPI ZZ9 cam
NOS 150 shot.
blah...blah...blah..
95' T-56, 6-speed
99' Z' rearend w/ 4.10's
------------------
1997 black Trans AM
A4, bone stock except for the Flowmaster.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 43
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Not necessarily. The power for the motor is supplied through a switch that closes when the solenoid plunger moves. The contacts for that switch could be burnt and not getting the job done.
Or, the motor brushes could be shot, or a brush spring broken.
I agree, though, that the solenoid is moving, but the motor not moving.
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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car. Rescued w/86 LG4/TH700R with all harnesses, sensors, ECM, etc. 2.73 open. Cat-back from '91 GTA, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LB9 w/ZZ3 cam, ported heads, exhaust, paint, etc.).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. Currently 396 .030 over, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" headers, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & shift kit, 3.08 10-bolt, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Best 15.1 @ 5800' Bandimere. Daily driver while Camaro was being put together.
Or, the motor brushes could be shot, or a brush spring broken.
I agree, though, that the solenoid is moving, but the motor not moving.
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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car. Rescued w/86 LG4/TH700R with all harnesses, sensors, ECM, etc. 2.73 open. Cat-back from '91 GTA, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LB9 w/ZZ3 cam, ported heads, exhaust, paint, etc.).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. Currently 396 .030 over, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" headers, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & shift kit, 3.08 10-bolt, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Best 15.1 @ 5800' Bandimere. Daily driver while Camaro was being put together.
hmmmm, i had the same problem just this week i think, try looking at my post, the replies i got were pretty informative... its in page 3...
[This message has been edited by Locry (edited October 08, 2000).]
[This message has been edited by Locry (edited October 08, 2000).]
86,
I'll jump on the "bad starter" bandwagon. It's either the contacts in the solenoid or the starter motor brushes.
In either case, a repaired starter is in order. Flipping the contact disc in the solenoid may get you running, but it does nothing for the stationary contacts in the solenoid. You can reverse the positions of the stationary contacts, but the contact area will be smaller from the existing wear. Bad contact is not what you need.
If you buy a remanufactured starter, don't just slap it in and call the job done. Remove the brush holder end cap from the reman before installing it. Check the brush and commutator condition. Some rebuilders don't even undercut the mica insulation between commutator segments when turning the commutator. Make sure the commutator hasn't been cut down so far that brush spring tension is barely enough to make contact.
Make sure there is adequate grease in the end bushing of the starter motor. Remove the solenoid and check for grease at the pivot pin and legs on the throwout fork for the pinion and Bendix. Make sure the front end bushing has adequate grease as well. If the reman is not to your satisfaction, exchange it for another one. You will need all the help you can get in cranking a cold V-8 in winter and hot engine with some compression in summer, so don't skimp now.
If you are so inclined, you can buy a new solenoid and starter brush set, and rebuild your existing starter. As long as the armature windings aren't grounded or the commutator isn't severly pitted, you should be able to successfully repair your starter.
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Later,
Vader
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"Make Me Bad"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0
I'll jump on the "bad starter" bandwagon. It's either the contacts in the solenoid or the starter motor brushes.
In either case, a repaired starter is in order. Flipping the contact disc in the solenoid may get you running, but it does nothing for the stationary contacts in the solenoid. You can reverse the positions of the stationary contacts, but the contact area will be smaller from the existing wear. Bad contact is not what you need.
If you buy a remanufactured starter, don't just slap it in and call the job done. Remove the brush holder end cap from the reman before installing it. Check the brush and commutator condition. Some rebuilders don't even undercut the mica insulation between commutator segments when turning the commutator. Make sure the commutator hasn't been cut down so far that brush spring tension is barely enough to make contact.
Make sure there is adequate grease in the end bushing of the starter motor. Remove the solenoid and check for grease at the pivot pin and legs on the throwout fork for the pinion and Bendix. Make sure the front end bushing has adequate grease as well. If the reman is not to your satisfaction, exchange it for another one. You will need all the help you can get in cranking a cold V-8 in winter and hot engine with some compression in summer, so don't skimp now.
If you are so inclined, you can buy a new solenoid and starter brush set, and rebuild your existing starter. As long as the armature windings aren't grounded or the commutator isn't severly pitted, you should be able to successfully repair your starter.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Make Me Bad"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0
Am i correct in saying that i will have to drain the oil to change the starter?
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1986 Trans Am
305 TPI
"If it's not one thing, it's another!"
http://www2.hanover.edu/hierlmeier
------------------
1986 Trans Am
305 TPI
"If it's not one thing, it's another!"
http://www2.hanover.edu/hierlmeier
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