Engine oil
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Joined: Feb 2000
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From: Bound Brook, NJ USA
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700R4
I've heard that you can switch back to regular old dyno oil from synthetic without any problems now also. Can anyone back this up with some solid evidence?
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 43
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Petroleum -> synthetic:
Only potential issue is heavy deposits from the petroleum being loosened by the synthetic and contaminating the oil prematurely. Worst case is the pick-up screen getting plugged and starving the pump. Deposits have to be very thick in order for this to happen - In 20 years, I've seen it happen once (the car had been rescued from a trailer park flood, if that gives you an idea of its previous life's maintence).
Synthetic -> pertoleum:
Only issue is you're going from the good stuff back to regular stuff. Wear rate will increase, but no more so than it would be if you had never used synthetic. The crankcase should be cleaner after using synthetic, though.
These are general statements, and may not apply to every Tom, Dick & Harry's brand synthetic.
Only potential issue is heavy deposits from the petroleum being loosened by the synthetic and contaminating the oil prematurely. Worst case is the pick-up screen getting plugged and starving the pump. Deposits have to be very thick in order for this to happen - In 20 years, I've seen it happen once (the car had been rescued from a trailer park flood, if that gives you an idea of its previous life's maintence).
Synthetic -> pertoleum:
Only issue is you're going from the good stuff back to regular stuff. Wear rate will increase, but no more so than it would be if you had never used synthetic. The crankcase should be cleaner after using synthetic, though.
These are general statements, and may not apply to every Tom, Dick & Harry's brand synthetic.
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