need help with carb bogging, switched to carb, but no help in carb board
need help with carb bogging, switched to carb, but no help in carb board
I have a 2000 mile crate LO5, I switched from tbi to carb (Edel 750---1407 and the performer rpm intake) in park I can punch and rev the **** outa it with no probs, purs like a kitten, but as soon as I hit the road after a few minutes its starts bogging and spitting and sounding like its runnin on 3 cylinders. If I stop for a sec and take off again it runs fine for a short second then starts bogging again.It only does this while driving. The carb is new and adjusted, new pump, filter , ignition ect...........The carb and intake I originially bought for my truck which had new everything on it to but the carb did the same thing on it,but I thought the truck just had gremlins...Like I said though it idles smooth as silk and accelerates like a rocket...only in park or neutral.It does it with just the primaries open and goes even more backwards when secondaries are open...appreciate fellas
thats what im wanting to find out amongst the main prob, most people (my mechanic click) tell me a 750 should do fine and with mods will only do better, but im not doubting your opinon hey the more input I get the better off I will be, I feel special when a moderator replies to me
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 4,969
Likes: 0
From: USA
Car: yy wife, crazy.
Engine: 350, Vortecs, 650DP
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 8.5", 3.42
most bogs are caused from not enough gas.
I had a '72 Nova with a Holley high rise single plane intake, Crane 302*/ .510" lift solid cam w/ 462 heads that were ported.
The holley 750 that was on there was trashed because the guy I bought it from stripped the hole for the air cleaner stud so bad it was split all the way down the center.
My friend had a Edelbrock 1407 laying around, so we threw it on. It bogged off the line BIG TIME. I ordered a new accl. pump kit (I can't remember which one now. That was ~6 yrs ago.) and it helped somewhat.
The bad part was the car had an M21 4 speed. I'd launch hard and the rear flap (air valve) on the Edelbrock is weight controlled. It's similar to a vacuum controlled air valve, but there's no vacuum. The carb has mechanical secondaries, but the actual flow is supposed to be limited by that flap.
There's a counter weight on the front side of the shaft that goes through the upper flap. When I'd stomp on it, the flap would open because of weight transfer, but the engine didn't need all that air at once, and there wasn't enough gas to fill the void, so it would still bog a little.
If you notice, Edelbrock has FINALLY made the AVS series carbs. I think it stands for Air Valve Secondaries. About damn time.
I'll bet you don't have that carb, do you.
I had a '72 Nova with a Holley high rise single plane intake, Crane 302*/ .510" lift solid cam w/ 462 heads that were ported.
The holley 750 that was on there was trashed because the guy I bought it from stripped the hole for the air cleaner stud so bad it was split all the way down the center.
My friend had a Edelbrock 1407 laying around, so we threw it on. It bogged off the line BIG TIME. I ordered a new accl. pump kit (I can't remember which one now. That was ~6 yrs ago.) and it helped somewhat.
The bad part was the car had an M21 4 speed. I'd launch hard and the rear flap (air valve) on the Edelbrock is weight controlled. It's similar to a vacuum controlled air valve, but there's no vacuum. The carb has mechanical secondaries, but the actual flow is supposed to be limited by that flap.
There's a counter weight on the front side of the shaft that goes through the upper flap. When I'd stomp on it, the flap would open because of weight transfer, but the engine didn't need all that air at once, and there wasn't enough gas to fill the void, so it would still bog a little.
If you notice, Edelbrock has FINALLY made the AVS series carbs. I think it stands for Air Valve Secondaries. About damn time.

I'll bet you don't have that carb, do you.
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cam depends on you and if you want to change valve springs.
If you just want to do cam n lifters look in the .445-.450 range durration depends on if you want high rpm or low range torque.
For street and a little extra top end I'd look for a cam around 220 degrees at .050 durration. Higher if you are planning on over 6,000rpm.
If you just want to do cam n lifters look in the .445-.450 range durration depends on if you want high rpm or low range torque.
For street and a little extra top end I'd look for a cam around 220 degrees at .050 durration. Higher if you are planning on over 6,000rpm.
sittin on some comp 1.6 roller rockers, stall convert aint a prob either, springs will go to, would love to get real heads, but wife say I have to work with what I got ......she knows sbc's as well as I damnit...my fault for teaching her with her 3rd gen
Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 139
Likes: 0
From: Massachusetts
Car: 87 T/A
Engine: LM1 350
Transmission: 700 R4
Yeah.....I know what ya mean about the wife issue !!! LOL!! So I went and got another part time job and use that money specifically for work on my T/A.........Of course a few extra gifts to her with the money isn't a bad idea either. It works for me !!!
what I would like to know since its a carbed LO5 (roller version), is what is the max lift cam I can put under the heads, with ofcourse springs, and 1.6rr's......if I have to sacrifice cam because of the 1.6rr's I can send them back for 1.5rr's.Oh and I have the auxillury vaccum thingy to. Clarification on NO headwork if possible,cause I do have to stick the ankers,with the but will put no money in them, cause whenever I can afford heads the springs and roller rockers are coming out. So basically I do want power in the 3000 to 6000rpm range if possible, got the edel perf rpm and edel 750 , th350,3.73 gears, and can get whatever stall I need
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