Ok here is what happened. I went to Walmart and the car was running fine, when I started it to head home it immediatly started running like crap, chugging hesitating, bogging, i had to keep tapping the pedal to keep it from dying. I didn't make it very far before it did die though. And when I went to restart it, it just fired and died.

My tank was really low on gas, i was going to go fill after walmart, but the fuel gauge wasn't where it should be when it runs out of gas. I have had it that low before, and i hadn't even reached my average miles per tank yet.

Well thinking it was out of gas i went and put about 4 gallons of 92 in the tank. The first time i started it, it ran like crap and then died. And it hasn't fired since then, it just turns over and over.

I changed the fuel filter, which would drain all the pressure out of the system, but it wasn't that. After trying to start it after changing the fuel filter i regained fuel pressure, although i don't know how much because no one seems to sell the right gauge to check it. And i have spark.

I am still presuming it is the fuel pump, but i would sure like some opinions from experienced people like yourselves. Oh and by the way it is a 89 IROC 350.

How do i check to see if my fuel pump realy is bad? And do any of you know where the inline fuse is that runs to the fuel pump, i can't semm to find it.

Well thanks for anyhelp that you people give me.

Steve

 

Most likely it's your fuel pump. Here is a quick way to get a heads-up on the problem:

While listening closely (It helps to have someone with an ear under the hood) turn your key to the "run" position, but not so far as to start cranking the engine over. You should hear the fuel pump relay click once, and after two seconds, it should click a second time. This is the initial pressuring-up of your fuel system. Between the two clicks, you should be able to hear a faint whirring of the fuel pump (once again, an ear by your fuel tank helps). No clicks means your relay is probably bad, if you have no whirring sound then your pump is probably the culprit, but go to the next step below first.

Let's not worry about the pump fuse right now. If you look near the front upper portion of your fuel tank, you will see the Fuel Gauge/Pump connector (three-pin connector). Disconnect the connector and use a test light or a meter to determine if you are getting TWO SECONDS worth of 12volts through this connector while you turn your key to the run position, or a continuous 12volts while cranking the engine. (the pins you want to place the meter across are the middle and the one to the left as you look directly into the plug IIRC. If not, then it's the middle one and the one to the right). If you don't get any voltage indication, then you have a bad relay or less likely, the fuse. If you do get voltage, change out your fuel pump.

------------------
86 Trans Am WS6 Black with tinted windows, shaved door handles
ZZ4, Mini-ram, true duals
***Too many other mods to mention***

"In the future, cities will become deserts,
roads will become battlefields, and the hope of mankind
will appear as a stranger" The Road Warrior

 

Ok thanks, i'll look into it tomarrow morning. Supposing it is my fuel pump how hard are they to change? The chiltons repair book says that i need to take the rearend out and a whole bunch more. It doesn't look like fun.

 

Try beating on the tank a bit. GM pumps have a tendency to stick when run dry, even after refilled. a few taps usually will unstick it.

 

where abouts should i beat on it? I tried it once but there wasn't much room so i could only get the corner or near the corner

 

I just had the same thing happen to me with my Vette last night (Friday the 13th ???).
Was running fine, and started off the light and it just started poping out the exhaust, no power. however it will idle, but if I give any gas it just starts boging and a poping. It just went and picked up a fuel pressure gauge set over at Checker Auto. It's really nice, has relieve valve and drain hose for about $42 bucks.
I've seen a lot pumps just sputter and die with in 1 mile, and other that just go out with a wimper only giving half the pressure needed ( This is what I hoping is my problem ).
I'll be running my battery of test tomarrow, I'll post back and let you know, if indeed thats the problem. Oh yea, I did the same thing 'spearson' and put some fuel in it, thinking maybe it ran low in the gauge was not functioning, but no dice -- chug chug pop pop all the way home.

Changing the pump in a 3rd gen is involved, and I've done it twice. the easiest way is to drop the track bar, and support, remove the mount on the sway bar and shocks. Basicly your going to put the chassie up on tall jack stands, and lower the rear suspension down as far as you can get it.
This allows you the easiest and the less fustrating position to get the filler neck to clear as you pull the tank out. You can do it in an afternoon, and if your pump is dead lets gets some new shocks and springs since we labored so long to make the job worth it. Hell I even toke a puddy knief to get the years of grease & dirt off the track arms.

Good Luck,
Ron C. Terry

------------------
'82 Trans Am
'81 Camaro Z-28
'94 Vette LT1 Coupe

[This message has been edited by ronterry (edited October 15, 2000).]

 

I went to checker and pep boys and neither of them had a gauge that would work. None of them went up to the 40+psi range that these cars have.

I would love to get some new parts since it is going to be all apart, but i have to rebuild the engine, i have really bad rings...really bad. I also need to get some tires.

Just tested the fuel pump relay, it works fine, all fuses check out. I am gonna have to dig in sometime this week on that fuel pump.

My friend had to tow me home with his Ford Fullsize Bronco, some people got humor out of that. "That is the way it should be, a ford pulling a chevy" is what they were saying. Damn that fuel pump.. hehe

 

Hey 'spearson' the pressure set I got was an Equus part #3640. It goes up to 100PSI, and works good. I had to go to Checker Auto, and ask about the gauge they had on display over where the timing lights, and vacuum gauges are. It took a couple of call to two other Checker to find one.
I did a test on my LT1, and found that It was precharging to 39PSI, and only about 32-35 while running. It should be between 41-47PSI. So I'm going to go ahead and replace my pump. I'm a little bit lucky since I only need to pull off the gas door on the back to get the pump out, BUT since it's a Vette it will cost me 2 to 3 times more for the part (doooo).

Don't feel bad 'spearson', I had to go 25MPH all the way home (about 10 miles). I was holding up Friday night traffic. You should of seen it. I was making owners in VW bugs feel good, as my Vette goes buy at 25 and a poppen and a poppen.
The best part was when it died on a hill, man I'm glad that sucker restarted. I was 1/2 mile from my home, its was dark and the road is in the middle of no where. With my profound wisdom, I didn't even bring a jacket with me that day (da - I've got a heater), and it was coldddd.

Ron C. Terry

------------------
'82 Trans Am
'81 Camaro Z-28
'94 Vette LT1 Coupe

[This message has been edited by ronterry (edited October 15, 2000).]

 

Ron, don't be too quick to change that fuel pump. I'm not sure about your '94 Vette but on our TPI systems the fuel pressure, at idle, is pulled down by the vaccume to aroud 35psi and then goes up with a corresponding decrease in vaccume to 43psi with no vaccume.

------------------
"84Z28/'91 305TPI comp cam flowmaster TB coolant bypass/shutoff valve to heater core MAT relocated Ram-Air(home-made) gutted air-box IROC ground effects/wheels GY245/50's 700R4 superior shift kit/ corvette servo(excellent shift kit BTW) Rebuilt engine and transplanted it myself. Love this engine!
LOW performance people should drive low performance vehicles!

 

You might be right, but with no codes, and it's mis firing anytime I give it any gas, kinda of points me towards a fuel problem.
I even precharged four or five time, and still can't get it up to the minimal specs of 41.
I was able to monitor the car with my Auto Xray, and it basicly looks good. However I might go over and compare some old results from before it started acting up.
The only other thing I could think of is the opti spark(I mean opti junk). But those ussualy start acting up over time. This thing was running fine, and whamo - crap-.
Believe me, if this was a 3rd Gen I would run a hell of lot more test, but the pump on this Vette is dumb easy to replace. I guess if it isn't the problem, I'll just rack up to preventive maintance, with 71 grand on the clock, might not be a bad idea.

Ron C. Terry



------------------
'82 Trans Am
'81 Camaro Z-28
'94 Vette LT1 Coupe

 

Thanks for the part number, i am going to bring it over to checker and see what they say, Hopefully one of the local stores has the part. Haven't had the motivation to start yet, but i am getting it driving that land yaht 79' chysler newport, it is so much fun to drive..... yeah right. The thing is a p.o.s.

 

Spearson, I got my fuel pressure gauge from Pep Boys. They had two by Sunpro; one was for carb'd motors, the other was for fuel injection and cost $40. Try another Pep Boys in your area...


------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards

 

Spearson, this is just about what happened to me, and was my first problem posted on the board. The culprit? One of my MAF relays. Don't know which, I just swapped both. This was however, after I had already swapped out my fuel pump. Try those first, much less of a PITA!!

 

Oh yea, before you go and buy the relays, try unplugging your MAF and then try starting the car with the MAF unplugged. If she starts, you just pinned the prob.