BLACK Z

I let the car sit for a week and the battery was totally dead?, I got it started and put a meter on the battery and it was moving a little even when the car was off and everything was off, What is my next step?

------------------
86Z28, GM 350, Jet perf Q-jet & chip Dual snorkel air cleaner, Edelbrock performer intake, Edelbrock headers, Edelbrock cat-back, Off road pipe, MSD 6AL, Accel Super Coil, Moroso Blue max wires, Rapid fire plugs, Jet fan switch, World class t-5, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, Ram Flywheel, Center force dual friction clutch,Aluminum drive shaft, BW disc rear 3.45's & a posi, PBR calipers, Earls braided brake lines, Polygrapite bushings all the way around, poly tranny mount & torque arm mount, Hotchkis lower control arms & panhard rod, Rancho limiter straps, KYB struts & shocks, Gm Wonderbar, Edelbrock strut tower brace, SSM sub frame connectors, Jamex lowering springs, Carbon metallic brake pads, Crossed drilled rotors, Mobil 1 Tranny fluid & motor oil, GM syntheic rear end oil, K&N, Grant stering wheel, 1,200 watt system, Jet Black Paint, 91 Z28 rims, 92 wing, Tinted windows.

Vader

BZ,

Normal parasitic load is about 35mA. The ECM and radio will bleed a little to keep the clock running and the ROM active.

Anything beyond that is leakage or another load that is not supposed to be on.

Remove the fuse for the courtesty lights or tape over the driver's door jamb switch so the interior lamps won't turn on. Connect the ammeter again, then start removing fuses one at a time. Check the ammeter after each fuse is removed to detect any load changes. You'll either find a circuit(s) that has a live load or will run out of fuses to pull. If the load doesn't change, remove the circuit breakers you find in the panel. Finally, remove the fuel pump fuse near the battery.

If none of this works, your load may be protected by a fusible link instead of a fuse. Disconnect the alternator field connector and output stud wire. Disconnect the positive cable from the starter. If you haven't found the load by then, get a larger battery.

------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Make Me Bad"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0

BLACK Z

Could the wire from the rear defroster not be hooked up cause this? The driver side one is under the panel, when the pass side came undone the brake lght would stay on the but it does not do this with the drivers side undone.

Russ-So Cal

Have you done a load test on the battery?
If you don't have a load tester, an easy way to test it is to disconnect the coil wire so the engine won't start and crank the engine.
If the battey goe dead in a few seconds it needs replaced. With everything off, I would disconnect the power lead from the alternator first. An alternator needs to have an isolation device to keep it from
discharging the battery back through the slip rings. I think most of them have some sort of isolation diode in either the alternator or the voltage regulator. If you have a digital voltmeter connected to your battery, if your observe it from time to time for about 1/2 hour, you will see the battery voltage gradually drop. If it is the alternator, when you unhook the output wire, the voltage will hold steady. If that happens, you need to replace the alternator.

BLACK Z

Which wire is it on the alt?

BLACK Z

It has not done it since that one day, Anyideas why?

Jason86Z28

Is the head unit acting up, maybe its leaving power to the amp and slowly draining it b/c the amp isn't doing much but powering the little "on" LED?

------------------
1986 Z28 LG4 M5
Alpine 6x9's 2 10" MTX Thunder 4000's MTX Thunder 102 Amp Hooker Aero-Chamber Cat-Back