Valve covers not fitting ProToplines... ?
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 984
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From: Nebraska
Car: '89 Formula
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt
Valve covers not fitting ProToplines... ?
Ive been test fitting some things for my new combo and ran across a little problem... Has anyone else with ProToplines had valve cover fitment issues? Ive tried several sets (stock and aftermarket perimeter-bolts) and none of them seem to seat right on the head. Anyone?
Aftermarket heads you run into issues like this, although I have not personally used those heads.
Where exactly is the fitment problem? It may require modifying the valve cover slightly to fit. I had to do this with a set of Trick FLow centerbolt heads most recently, amongst the handfull of other times I've had to deal with problems like this. Probably somebody (maybe me) can help.
Where exactly is the fitment problem? It may require modifying the valve cover slightly to fit. I had to do this with a set of Trick FLow centerbolt heads most recently, amongst the handfull of other times I've had to deal with problems like this. Probably somebody (maybe me) can help.
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 984
Likes: 55
From: Nebraska
Car: '89 Formula
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt
Thanks for the response. The channel where the gasket seats in the cover doesnt fit over the raised rails of the heads. It fits fine the long way but when you put it on, either the top or bottom area sits just short of the rail. Ill try to get a digital photo...
I think I know what you're saying. That's a tough one. Any chance of grinding the gasket surface on the heads a little- making them thinner where necessary so they don't hit the "gasket containment rails" (just made that term up) on the valve cover?
If not, you might want to just grind away maybe 1/2 of the cover's gasket containment rail height in the offending area so it seats against the gasket when tightened down instead of hitting metal-to-metal, valve cover-to-head. If you can grind the INSIDE gasket containment rail to get the room you need that would probably be preferable to doing the outside part. You just need SOMETHING left there so the valve cover gasket can't just squirt out the side when you tighten it down.
If not, you might want to just grind away maybe 1/2 of the cover's gasket containment rail height in the offending area so it seats against the gasket when tightened down instead of hitting metal-to-metal, valve cover-to-head. If you can grind the INSIDE gasket containment rail to get the room you need that would probably be preferable to doing the outside part. You just need SOMETHING left there so the valve cover gasket can't just squirt out the side when you tighten it down.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 43
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
We are talking perimeter bolt covers, right?
"Gasket containment rails"? Centerbolts, yes, but perimeter?
"Gasket containment rails"? Centerbolts, yes, but perimeter?
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 984
Likes: 55
From: Nebraska
Car: '89 Formula
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt
Id have to modify the outer part to make it fit. Even if I trimmed the inside somehow, it still wouldnt work; it seems like the mounting surface on the head is too big for the cover. This is really irritating after spending $850 for a bare set of heads...
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