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Replacing pickup dont want to mess up.

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Old Aug 16, 2003 | 11:12 AM
  #1  
BWW's Avatar
BWW
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From: Detroit, MI
Replacing pickup dont want to mess up.

Allright i have got to test/replace my pickup coil on an 88 l98 350. i have checked pretty much any thing else that causes no spark. My question is - even after i have read and reread the procedure i am hesitant to do it. i have been working on cars for 2 years but never pulled a distributor. Is there some tips i could get (searched) from anyone with experience so that i dont mess up
any help would be great.thanks
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Old Aug 16, 2003 | 11:48 AM
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ede's Avatar
ede
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From: Jackson County
you don't really have to pull the distriburor to test it or replace any of the parts under the cap unless i'm over looking something.
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Old Aug 16, 2003 | 12:29 PM
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8Mike9's Avatar
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From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
You do need to pull the dis to replace the PU coil.

Thing to do before you pull the dis, is to mark the dis base relative to something...as well as mark the rotor to the base.

Next, notice how the rotor turns when you pull out the dis...you want to start at that position when reinstalling it.
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Old Aug 16, 2003 | 12:53 PM
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From: Canada
Car: 87 Firebird
Engine: 350, 416's, 230/230 cam, torkerII, q-jet
Transmission: T5
This would also be a good time to shim for end play. IIRC between .005-.015.
It is not to difficult to dissasemble a HEI just make sure you have a soft jaw vice and the proper sized roll pin punch.
Also the shaft can also be hard to pulll out with all the years of accumulated grundge so be sure to soak or spray the hell out of it.
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Old Aug 17, 2003 | 03:17 PM
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From: South Jersey
Car: '16 Camaro SS, '88 IROC
Engine: 6.2 Gen V
Transmission: 6 spd TR6060
I had to replace the coil in my 88Iroc 305 a few years ago. A previous post said mark the distributor. This is done two ways: First put a mark where the distributor attaches to the block, second, with the rotor on, put a mark straight out from where the rotor is pointing, crank the engine so it points toward the firewall or something that you can mark. Next, you need a special wrench to loosen the distributor hold down, disconnect the wires, then remove the distributor. You have to drive out the roll pin on the bottom gear then remove the shaft. Have fun, my shaft was stuck from gunk. Install the coil, assemble the distributor, and replace in engine. Distributor will turn as it engages the camshaft so plan on that so the rotor mark lines up. I don't have my book handy but you have to disconnect the vacuum advance wire close to the passenger firewall to check the timing. If you hit the marks you made initially, your timing will be OK.
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Old Aug 17, 2003 | 06:52 PM
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From: La Porte, IN
Car: 1987 Monte Carlo SS
Engine: L98
Transmission: 200-4R
Axle/Gears: 7.625 10 bolt/3.73s
Make sure you have a 5/32" punch around for the distrib gear pin. I was in the same boat as you thinking it will never start after my first distrib pull, but I got through it without problems and I'm sure you will too. Good luck.
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Old Aug 17, 2003 | 07:56 PM
  #7  
ZZ28ZZ's Avatar
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From: Austin
Car: 82 Z-28
Engine: 383 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Also the shaft can also be hard to pulll out with all the years of accumulated grundge so be sure to soak or spray the hell out of it.
Good advice. Don't try to force it out. Let the penetrating oil do the work. I've seen more than a couple that came halfway out and got stuck. Really stuck..
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Old Aug 17, 2003 | 08:11 PM
  #8  
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From: New Palestine, IN (Just East of Indy)
Car: '85 Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: WC T5, 3.23 posi
Originally posted by ZZ28ZZ
Good advice. Don't try to force it out. Let the penetrating oil do the work. I've seen more than a couple that came halfway out and got stuck. Really stuck..
That happened to me the other night. I was disassembling a HEI dizzy and the shaft got stuck, but nothing a BFH and a large puch couldn't take care of, of course after I got it out I realized the base was trash... Good thing I had a few others laying around...
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