I want to stroke my L98 to a 383 but I also want to rebuild it because it was revved really high a few times and I don't want to run into problems as I modify it later. What would be the best way to go to stroke it and rebuild it at the same time?
Thanks!

 

have the block machined and buy a 383 kit and then have everything balanced and install.

 

Scrap that motor and buy a short block, Look around until you get a good deal. I got my shortblock for 1000 off this site in the classifieds section. Trust me it will be cheaper and easier to just get a 383 short block. Then just throw the heads and intake on and your ready to go!!! For more suggesitions check out my sig!!!

 

Sorry heres the sig!!!!! over 400 horse at the flywheel. and *** knows how much torque.
Not sure on rear wheel.

 

hey. i'm not sure on your budget and if you want to get into it more, u can email me at goldrush089@aol.com. i'll be happy to help. but i'd say if you have done motor rebuilds before, u can build the motor yourself, but it is very smart to buy big stroke 383 ballanced assembly so it will still turn some higher rpms safely. don't scrap your l98. nothing wrong with an l98. only thing I've ever run into with an l98 is a 2 bolt main block and trying to make 450+ hp and high rpms or nitrous runs on the bolt.... u can have the mains splayed (bolts drilled at an angle for strength) and it will have every bit as much strength as a non spalyed 4 bolt block. splaying can be expensive... very. like i said, i can't really get much in depth with ya untill i know if u have a budget and how much power u r planning on packing. If u could email me, i can recomend a cam, head, and intake... I've already got an intake in mind...... ttyl? good luck

 

I mean NO offence by what I am about to say.


I have never seen a 383 that has impressed me. One day I might see one, but to date I have not. This being said IF it were me building a motor, I would go the balance rotating assembly route and put it together or have it put together. You never know what you are buying when you get an assembled short block. Stick with the 2 bolt mains and cast crank unless you are going to spray the world at it. Drive it and have fun. Don't over do it with fancy over priced race car parts when it isn't necessary.

 

well the idea with a 383 isnt that it in its self will give you more power but okay lets say you had 2 stock setups except one had been stroked to 383. Now you put on heads. Lets say hypothetically you get a 50 increase on the 350 in hp youd get a 75 with a 383. I know you probably realize that but its just more cubes gives you more potential.

 

thanks alot, your posts have really opened up my eyes with what i want to do. Put i am not sure what WAY i want to go yet put your comments have helped greatly! Thanks

 

basically based on your power goals find out what is the cheapest way to get there. If you can get there on the 350 then chances are youd save money by not having to pay for expensive machining and you could stroke it anyways just not to 383.

 

With the exception of offset grinding the crank (which is not recommended)...How exactly would you stroke a 350??

 

bore it .30 over and get a sbc 400 crank and you have a 383.

 

i always am nervous about saying things like this because i usually say something dumb but i believe you can get a 350 up to 37* with the stock bore.

 

377's are 400 blocks with 350 cranks Don't need to worry about feeling dumb here. That's why it's a tech board
377's are big RPM motors but require a spacer bearing on the crank. An idea I'm not comfortable with at all.

 

Build a 383 it will make more power and at a lower rpm than a 350. Sure a 350 will make as much power as you want but you will have to rev it higher and put more gear and converter it, to get it to run the same as the 383

 

well at the very least i know you can go to a 355 but i thought you could stroke it bigger without any boreing. obviously not

 

for the amount of money spent boring it out you could by a super charger

 

I want to know where you shop. Boring=200 dollars

 

boring homing checking for crack hy....flex something like that all would be 1500 thats at a good shop

 

Would a 383 pushing a 3900-lb '57 Nomad down the track to low 12's do the trick?

Normally aspired, of course.

 

you mean naturally aspired

 

Take your pick.

Natural works.

 

can you stroke a 350??

 

Yes, thats what a 383 is, a stroked 350.

 

no.. a 383 is a 350 that has been bored out

 

NONONONO!!!

a 383 for the gazillionth time is a 350 bored out!!! AND machined for a 400 crank.

So a 383 is a 350 block bored 30 over with a 400 crank!!!!

Trust me I have one.

 

HEY i found someone i can say i'm smarter then HEY EVERYONE I"M SMARTER THEN 87350IROC :lala: :lala: :lala: :lala:

 

really? You thought a 383 is strictly bored. I didn't say you were wrong when you said a 383 is a bored 350. When you asked if you can stroke I said a 383 is a stroked 350, which is true. I gave no false information, you did.

 

When i said that i meant could you strock a 350 meaning have a longer strock on a 350.....350

 

you can if you have a smaller bore, and i don't know why you would want that

 

if it had a smaller bore then it wouldnt be a 350

 

If it had a smaller bore and larger stroke it would be a 350. You can have a 350 with a 1" bore, if you're willing to get a custom block.

 

1" bore?? a 350 has a 4in bore if you have it bored 30 over and ad a 400 cranks it becomes a 383. Oh yea if you ad a 400 crank to a 350 it will become a 377

 

Thats what we've been trying to tell you. Then you asked if you could have a 350 that had a longer than stock 3.48" stroke while still having 350 cubes. The only was to have a longer than 3.48" stroke and still have a 350 is to have a smaller bore. I also said, technically, if you wanted, you could make a 350 with any bore size, or any stroke size, as long as it had a matching stroke or bore to make it a 350. The whole point of stroking a 350 is to get more cubes.

 

We are not on the same wave length and instead of trying to figure this out i'm going to go do my homework.

 

I'd spot you out with my small block......naturally aspirated of course....

 

A 377 is also 400 block with a 350 crank

 

I want to know where you shop. Boring=100 dollars

 

383 can be:

350 block .030over with a 400 crank
or
400 block .060over with a 350 crank



I dont reccomend boring a 400 .060 over though.....

 

Sorry it's been a while...I think the 200 included an align hone, but either way it wasn't enough for a blower.

 

oh i'm thinking of the whole project by itself also what is interchangable between a 350 and 383??

also exactly how do you figure out displacement, i learned in physics class displacement was how much water a object pushes away when dunken in water?

But then again i could be wrong i mostly copied from the asian girl that sat next to me

 

Volume of incompressible fluid displaced by the movement of the piston.

Area of the bore times the stroke equals displacement of one cylinder. Times the number of cylinders equals the displacement of the engine.

The only thing that makes a 350 a 350 is the combination of bore & stroke that equals 350 cubic inches (rounded off, of course). There is another thread on here that discusses making a 350 out of a 400-type block (4.125" diameter bore) and a 327-type crank (3.25" stroke).

For a couple of years, the same block was used to make 350's, 327's, and 302's. The only difference between the engines was the stroke produced by the crank (and the pistons required to properly place the pistons in the cylinders).

A 350 and 383 can share block, heads, cam, intake, oil pan, oil pump, etc. They must by defination have different crank strokes, and since the crank strokes are different, the pistons have to have the rod wrist pin located in different places relative to the piston crown so the piston goes to the proper place in the cylinder with respect to the top of the cylinder.

The typical 383, which is a stroker 350, is made by boring the 4.000" cylinder out another .030". This is because 383's are made out of used 350 blocks, typically, which typically need an overbore to clean up the cylinder walls, anyway. A 350 that is treated to the same clean-up overbore becomes 355 cubic inches if the 350 crank is reused.

There, you learned something today...

 

thanks man i'm a little smarter thanks to you

ok can i get a price on boring. I mean a reasonable amount, you get what you pay for right?

 

8 bucks a hole at my shop

 

hmm... last time i checked into boring.... my machinist quoted me about $135.


i'm going tomorrow to pick my heads up, i'll ask him.

 

Assuming you give your shop the bare block all cleaned up, it should be in the neighborhood of $75-$150. I paid $110. I suggest finding a good shop and paying their prices, unless they are ridiculus.

 

exactly...

it's best to check several shops, and see what they have to offer.

i called two shops, visited one. i ended up taking my business to the shop i visited because the machinist took his time and showed me around the shop, how things worked. that sold me on the shop right there, besides the fact that several friends of mine had done prior business, and were satisfied.

i got lucky on the first shop i dealt with, and have continued to do business with him.

 

383 cars are cool

 

You could build this if you build it from a L98 and use the heads and valve covers

Crankshaft, 4340 - Scat - 4-350-3750-6000 - 665
Connecting rods - Scat - 2-ICR5700 - 289
Pistons, Forged - SRP - 138090 - 453
Rings, Zero Gap - C&A - 43ZX4.035 - 213
Bearings, Main - Clevite - MS909H - 45
Bearings, Rod - Clevite - CB663H - 48
Bearings, Cam - Durabond - CHP-8 - 15
Oil pan - Moroso - 20190 - 122
Oil pump - Moroso - 22125 - 69
Camshaft, mech. roller - crane - 118581 - 331
Roller tappets, mech. - Crane - 11542-16 - 340
Roller Rockers, 1.5 In. Crane - 11750-16 - 262
Stud Girdle - Crane - 11600-1 - 166
Pushrods - Manley - 25716-16 - 143
Distributor, billet - MSD - 85551 - 200
Digital -6 box - MSD - 6520 - 280
Coil, Blaster - MSD - 8252 - 110
Spark Plug Wires - MSD - 31239 - 80
Wire separators - MSD - 8843 - 18
Balancer - ATI - 917200 - 340
Serpentine Pulley kit - Zoops - 6100fp - 244
Hose Kit, P.S. - Zoops - 9560 - 190
Idler pulley - Zoops - 81501 - 125
Wire Looms - Zoops - 2000 - 50
total - $4655

 

I saw this on ebay for 499.99 i dont think it will be as good as the other

SILVOLITE CLAIMER PISTONS H3426
HASTINGS MOLY RINGS 2M139
CLEVITE ROD BEARINGS CB663P
CLEVITE MAIN BEARINGS MS909P
MELLING HI-VOLUME OIL PUMP M55HV
FEL-PRO PERFORMANCE GASKET SET 92600
PBM PERFORMANCE CAMSHAFT 290/300 222/231 .468 .480 110 LOBE
PBM PERFORMANCE LIFTER HA817
DURA-BOND CAM BEARINGS CH8
PIONEER BRASS EXPANSION PLUG PE100B
PBM PERFORMANCE DOUBLE ROW 3 KEYWAY TIMING SET 700
PBM PERFORMANCE HYDRAULIC VALVE SPRINGS 3000 (1.250 OD 110#@1.700 300#@1.250 .500 LIFT)
PBM PERFORMANCE CHROME MOLY RETAINERS 501S
PBM PERFORMANCE 7 DEGREE HD KEEPERS
PBM PERFORMANCE CRANKSHAFT 3.750 STROKE 2 PIECE SEAL

 

TTT