Storage
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 788
Likes: 0
From: Wichita, KS
Car: 92' RS
Engine: LO3
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9-bolt
Storage
Alright, well its getting about that time of year. I plan on storing my camaro in the garage this winter. Anyone have any recommandations on what to do except keep the tank full, battery off and a cover on her? thanks in advance.
Chris
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Flowmaster,Edelbrock open filliment filter with K&N filter in it
160 stat,
Chris
------------------
Flowmaster,Edelbrock open filliment filter with K&N filter in it
160 stat,
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 811
Likes: 5
From: Maple Grove MN USA
Car: 1984 Z28 Camaro
Engine: H.O. 355 NOS
Transmission: 700R4
I have stored my car for 15 winters and thats all i do. Oh, one other thing. I check the recomended tire pressure on the side of the tire and pump them up to that pressure.
-Auggie-
-Auggie-
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 19,655
Likes: 309
Chris,
There is an article on long term storage on the 3rd° site for storage for more than a year. Since you're apparently just wintering your car in the garage like I do every year, here's what I've done:
* Fully charge the battery. There's no reason to remove it if you're only storing for several months, and you'll need it to start the vehicle periodically (more later). As long as it's fully charged, it shouldn't freeze.
* DO NOT wash the car right before you put the ziploc on it. The latent moisture will have fun with your car while you're away.
* If you have a fixed antenna, spin it off and put it in the cargo well.
* Drain and change the engine and transmission fluids just before storage. Normal acid formation in oils will also wreak havoc in an idle assembly. Make sure all other fluid levels are at their safe maximum.
* The concensus of those on the board is to fill the fuel tank. For long-term storage, I would recommend draining the tank to about 1/8th full, but for seasonal storage it isn't a factor as long as you use a fuel stabilizer like Sta-Bil or a similar product at your last fillup.
* Replace the coolant or enhance the heck out of it with corrosion inhibitors.
* Seal all the air intakes and vents you can find. Plastic and duct tape body vents, cowl vents, exhaust pipes, throttle body, etc. The duct tape is a *****' to get off, but it's a lot easier than mouse dung.
* Suspend the vehicle on jack stands from the box channels on the body instead of letting it rest on the suspension.
* Put a 9x11 cake pan on the front passenger floor to catch the coolant drips from the heater core if it rots through.
* Put fly paper or insect traps on some flat interior surfaces.
* Close the windows and doors tight. Keep the car out of light as much as possible. If you decide to cover it, make sure the first layer is a lightweight breathable material. If you want to keep the paint as clean as possible, lay out some cotton bath towels over the flat surfaces of the hood and roof (over the lightweight cover), then cover it with a plastic tarp.
It would be best if you could get back to it at least once a month and run it to full operating temperature, operate all the accessories, move the steering and brakes, then store it again. There is usually at least one decent day every month during the winter weekends to enable you to do this. If you don't have that opportunity, you may have some work to do when you do pull it out of storage.
Starting periodically has several benefits. The oils get warmed enough to keep water from condensing in the sumps. The entire engine gets a heat/cool cycle to dry out and distribute oil everywhere. The transmission can be shifted through the ranges to allow fluid flow through most of the valve body and cause movement of parts that might otherwise stick. All the 'O' rings and seals get warmed and wet with oil. The battery gets a load and then fully charged to excercise it. The exhaust system gets purged of moisture. The cooling system gets full coolant flow to prevent debris from settling in pockets in the heads, case, and heater core. the air conditioner can be cycled to keep all the seals wet with refrigerant oil. If the weather is really decent, you can even lower and move the car to excercise the steering and suspension.
I've had injectors get fouled from deposit buildup on the tips a couple of years, and I suspect this is from the long idle periods between starts in the storage season. I've spoken with Rich at Cruzin' Performance about this phenomenon, and I plan to experiment with fogging the intake plenum with a rust preventive or kerosene just before shutting down for the last time to try to prevent all the fuel from evaporating on the tips and the resultant deposit formation. Frankly, I'm getting tired of pulling the injectors every spring for cleaning on three cars.
Rich has not advocated this procedure, but he did say that it probably wouldn't cause any harm, and might actually help the situation. If it doesn't work, I've lost nothing since I'd be pulling the injectors again anyway. Hey, it's a theory - I'll be the guinea pig.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Make Me Bad"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0
[This message has been edited by Vader (edited November 05, 2000).]
There is an article on long term storage on the 3rd° site for storage for more than a year. Since you're apparently just wintering your car in the garage like I do every year, here's what I've done:
* Fully charge the battery. There's no reason to remove it if you're only storing for several months, and you'll need it to start the vehicle periodically (more later). As long as it's fully charged, it shouldn't freeze.
* DO NOT wash the car right before you put the ziploc on it. The latent moisture will have fun with your car while you're away.
* If you have a fixed antenna, spin it off and put it in the cargo well.
* Drain and change the engine and transmission fluids just before storage. Normal acid formation in oils will also wreak havoc in an idle assembly. Make sure all other fluid levels are at their safe maximum.
* The concensus of those on the board is to fill the fuel tank. For long-term storage, I would recommend draining the tank to about 1/8th full, but for seasonal storage it isn't a factor as long as you use a fuel stabilizer like Sta-Bil or a similar product at your last fillup.
* Replace the coolant or enhance the heck out of it with corrosion inhibitors.
* Seal all the air intakes and vents you can find. Plastic and duct tape body vents, cowl vents, exhaust pipes, throttle body, etc. The duct tape is a *****' to get off, but it's a lot easier than mouse dung.
* Suspend the vehicle on jack stands from the box channels on the body instead of letting it rest on the suspension.
* Put a 9x11 cake pan on the front passenger floor to catch the coolant drips from the heater core if it rots through.
* Put fly paper or insect traps on some flat interior surfaces.
* Close the windows and doors tight. Keep the car out of light as much as possible. If you decide to cover it, make sure the first layer is a lightweight breathable material. If you want to keep the paint as clean as possible, lay out some cotton bath towels over the flat surfaces of the hood and roof (over the lightweight cover), then cover it with a plastic tarp.
It would be best if you could get back to it at least once a month and run it to full operating temperature, operate all the accessories, move the steering and brakes, then store it again. There is usually at least one decent day every month during the winter weekends to enable you to do this. If you don't have that opportunity, you may have some work to do when you do pull it out of storage.
Starting periodically has several benefits. The oils get warmed enough to keep water from condensing in the sumps. The entire engine gets a heat/cool cycle to dry out and distribute oil everywhere. The transmission can be shifted through the ranges to allow fluid flow through most of the valve body and cause movement of parts that might otherwise stick. All the 'O' rings and seals get warmed and wet with oil. The battery gets a load and then fully charged to excercise it. The exhaust system gets purged of moisture. The cooling system gets full coolant flow to prevent debris from settling in pockets in the heads, case, and heater core. the air conditioner can be cycled to keep all the seals wet with refrigerant oil. If the weather is really decent, you can even lower and move the car to excercise the steering and suspension.
I've had injectors get fouled from deposit buildup on the tips a couple of years, and I suspect this is from the long idle periods between starts in the storage season. I've spoken with Rich at Cruzin' Performance about this phenomenon, and I plan to experiment with fogging the intake plenum with a rust preventive or kerosene just before shutting down for the last time to try to prevent all the fuel from evaporating on the tips and the resultant deposit formation. Frankly, I'm getting tired of pulling the injectors every spring for cleaning on three cars.
Rich has not advocated this procedure, but he did say that it probably wouldn't cause any harm, and might actually help the situation. If it doesn't work, I've lost nothing since I'd be pulling the injectors again anyway. Hey, it's a theory - I'll be the guinea pig.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Make Me Bad"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0
[This message has been edited by Vader (edited November 05, 2000).]
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 811
Likes: 5
From: Maple Grove MN USA
Car: 1984 Z28 Camaro
Engine: H.O. 355 NOS
Transmission: 700R4
Wow! I never knew that you had to go through all that for 6 months of cold storage. I put my car away on Nov. 1st and come back on May 1st, connect the batt., let some air out of the tires, fire it up and drive it home. I bought my Camaro in 84 and have been storing it for 15 years with no ill effects. I guess i will have to reconsider my storage prosedures.
-Auggie-
-Auggie-
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 6
From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Check this link out for dessicant plugs to keep moisture out of your cylinders:
http://www.eastwoodco.com/cgi-bin/sg...7243873&FNM=20
They have 10, 12, and 18mm versions.
------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!
http://www.eastwoodco.com/cgi-bin/sg...7243873&FNM=20
They have 10, 12, and 18mm versions.
------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 712
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles, Ca, USA
Car: 90 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: T56
damn....that is nuts. im glad i live in the land of one season. CALIFORNIA!!! woohoo. none of this storage during winter business. heck, some winter days are nicer than some summer days. good luck guys. want me to send some videos of me having fun in my baby this winter...you know...to hold you over until may 1st. jk. sorry to hear about your 6 month loss. just remember the good times you had in the past 6 months. you know. trying to figure out that damn ticking noise. then that idle problem. moving right into the vacuum leak...or was that an exhaust leak. ya gotta love it. later guys.
Rick
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Rick
90 Camaro RS 305 TBI
400 on the way!!
Rick
------------------
Rick
90 Camaro RS 305 TBI
400 on the way!!
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