Last night I finally got to drive the bird. It has been a couple weeks, due to interior fixes. So, I drive it for 30 minutes to an hour, and everything is great. Then it just starts loosing power. When you mash the gas all the way, it feels like it is holding back. Expecially compared to the way it was. Well, I figured I would just look at it this morning. When I got in it today, it sarted ticking like crazy. It sounded like it was coming from the driver's side valve cover. So, I set TDC and checked the rocker arms. They were all set right. When I put everything back together and cranked it, guess what, the noise is still there. I looked in the valve cover holes, and I don't see any oil splashing around. I'm getting good oil pressure. Well the gauge says I am anyway. Is it possible to not be getting enough oil in the valvetrain? Would this give me a loss in power? What about dirty lifters? Is there a good way to clean them out real good? I know this is a long one, but I'm against the wall here, only got to drive it for an hour in 2 weeks!!!!
Thanks

 

Check the plug wires, make sure one didn't pop off or some loose and is still hanging on the plug.

 

I already checked that too. That problem is still there. The plugs and wires were just changed about a month ago. Thanks

 

If you only checked the rockers at TDC, you can't possibly have a clue if they were all set correctly.

 

Sorry to confuse. I went to TDC and checked it according to the manual. Then rotated it once and finised them out. They all looked right. This is the way I set them when I first rebuilt the engine a couple years ago, and the way I set them when I put on the rocker arms a couple months ago. Both times it ran fine. This just started happening sort of out of the blue. I just wanted to see if the studs came out any. They all look good. I'm thinking it has something to do with the oil not getting up in the valvetrain. I could be wrong. That is why I'm here. Anymore Ideas?

 

I just went out and fired it up. It sounds like a rattle. Like something is coming apart under the intake/valvecovers. It is real inconsistant though. Sometimes it isn't there, sometimes it is real loud. The car idles fine, just loudly. Just about everytime you hit the gas, it gets loud, and faster with the RPMs.

 

Any more ideas? I'm about to do an engine oil flush. I'll let you all know if it helps. Thanks

 

From what you describe, it sounds like a bad oil pump/broken oil pickup/broken shaft. That racket you hear sounds to me like the hydraulic lifters loosing pressure. I wouldn't run the car until you are positive the oil pressure is OK. Maybe install a mechanical oil gauge to make sure. Those main/rod bearings spin easily without oil.

 

The flush did not work. Big supprise huh. So, how can I tell if the oil pump is bad? The gauge in the car works good. I know you can't always trust the factory gauge, but it is getting something to move it, right? Anyway, I guess I'll drop the pan in the morning and check out the pump. I don't have a mech. gauge to plug in.
Thanks for the input.

 

If you have a primer you could spin that pump without the pita of pulling the pan.

 

I don't have a primer right now. Do they have them at Autozone, or advanced? I don't really want to pull the pan, but I do need a good place to start. Thanks

 

The oil pump wouldn't cause him to loose power...Sounds like a broken valve spring to me. Did you check them all closely? Mine did the same thing to me when I had the 305 in it. Made all kinds of racket and 1 cyclinder was dead causing it to have less power...

 

I'll take a look at the springs when I get a chance to work on it. I didn't even think about that. Thanks. I'll let you all know if I find something.

 

hey i was reading this and it sounds like my problem a little

what is the noise you are talking about

is it like a metallic clicking thats like a baseball card on a bike wheel, just going nuts at idle, im deaf so i dont hear it once in the car to rev it
i got a little white smoke before i turned it off last time i looked at it i want to make sure the valve covers arent leaking

 

The reason I said oil pump problems was because 88fbird said he started it up and said it sounded like a rattle with the noises getting louder. A busted spring would be just one click, just like a loose rocker arm. A binding oil pump could possibly result in lost power until the shaft shears

 

Okay. Here's the update. It isn't good, by the way. I checked out the valve springs, they are all good. So, I decided to crank the engine to see if I could narrow it down more. with the engine running, I can see the oil coming out of the pushrods as advertised. So, the pump is fine. The noise isn't coming from the valve springs/rocker arms either. The bad thing is that it seems to be coming from deeper in the motor! So, what do you guys think it is, a spun bearing or something? Like I said before, it isn't real noticable all the time, it is real inconsistant, I have basically no power now, and it seems to be coming from the front of the motor. That is about all I have right now. Thanks for all the help so far.
Fbird

 

88, did you take the belt off to check if the nioise was still there? My air compressor makes a rattling noise that I thought was valvetrain noise until I un-hooked the belt.

 

I unhooked the belt, it didn't help. Good idea though, thanks!
Fbird

 

Make double sure it isnt exhaust leaking between the manifolds and heads. The noise can sound quite similar to valves tapping. If your catalytic convertor come apart and is plugged up now, the car will have no power and it'll create alot of back pressure. The back pressure then blows out the exhaust gaskets.

Just something easy to check before you dig too far into the motor. Hard to tell without seeing/hearing it.

 

TTT. Anyone else?

 

Crap, if you see oil coming from the pushrods, and the noise is deep in the engine, then I am thinking rod bearings. Were you low on oil when this first happened? Does it sound like someone is hitting the inside of the engine with a hammer? Depending on how many bearings, the rapping could be noisy. Valve tappet noise is sort of tapping or clicking, rod or main bearing noise is stronger, more metalic. Do the test that some people recommend, pull out the dipstick and see if you can see metal shavings or metallic particles in the oil after you run the engine for a short time, rub the oil on your fingers or a white paper towel. When I was younger, I had a habit of spinning bearings, it is a sound that everyone dreads hearing. The last confirmation would be to drop the pan and start pulling caps.

 

Trying to grasp for straws, does anybody think it could be severe detonation? Severe detonation sounds like a hammer hitting metal. Could be only one cylinder or so. That would explain the lack of power. Do you think the distributor crapped out and the timing went to hell? Doesn't these engines have detonation sensors or something like that? Unless an engine has tons of miles or a bad pump or low oil, rod bearings don't usually start spinning. Grab a timing light and check the timing. Maybe someone could elaborate on the knock sensors.

 

If you want to see exactly where the problem is coming from within the motor without pulling it apart this is what you can do:

1.get a broomstick, with no broom
2. stick your thumb in your ear and the stick against your thumb.
3. touch the oppsoite end of the stick on the vavle cover over every cylinder(to hear rockers on that cylinder) and then on every cylinder on the block. You will be able to hear inside every cylinder

everything should sound the same, you can tell if your problem is in the top/bottom end, and which cylinder is the culprit..

sounds odd but it works.....my father taught me that a long time ago...

Rich

 

Hey SweetS10v8, thats a poor mans automobile stethescope. I have one and they work great. I would recommend a stethscope for anyone who works on cars. Does wonders narrowing down noise locations, especially noisy rockers.

 

I got the stethescope. Here's the update. I can hear it around the #1 and #3 cylinder. I can hear it when I put the wood on the top and bottom ridge of the head, on the intake around the fuel injector bungs, on the side of the block in front of the mount, and a little on the oil pan. It is still there on the other cylinders, but not as loud. It is pretty much the same sound on those places. Oh, I unhooked the exhaust and looked in the cat. I can see right through that thing, so I don't think it is blocked. I could still hear the knock when the exhaust was off, but it was alot harder to hear. The exhaust sounded nice though! So, that is where I'm at now. What do you all think now? Thanks for the help.
Fbird

 

TTT. Anyone got anything else?
Fbird

 

The #1 & #2 rod & #1 main bearings are the last things to get oil. Sounds like a bearing knock to me except for the loss of power part. Rod will be softer and rythmic but not steady (KNOCK knock KNOCK knock, etc.). Main will be hard sounding and steady.

Could also be a wrist pin or broken piston skirt. With the power loss, a piston may be involved. Harmonic dampers can also make weird noises when bad.

Try a compression test.

 

Good Lord, you know something about everything! How do you know so much? school? personal experience? Your like a automotive encyclopedia.....

 

I did my first solo engine change 34 years ago (1960 Rambler American, straight 6). You watch, listen, read, check it out for yourself - you accumulate a litte bit here & there and try to dredge it up when needed.

My favorite bumper sticker: "People who think they know it all really annoy those of us who do."

(No, I don't have one on my car...)

Guess I could add bent rod to the list of things that could be causing these symptoms.

 

Another possible test to see if it is the rod bearings on #1 and #3 is to disconnect the spark plug wire. This would prevent the cylinder from firing, thus reducing the shock of ignition on the piston and rod. The noise should be somewhat reduced. Have you checked the oil for particles?

 

exhaust leak?

 

I checked the oil, I got a couple particles. They don't look metallic though. Lookes like some pepper. Little, dull black flakes. I got two or three out on the dipstick. I don't think it is an exhaust leak, it sounds too deep in the motor for that. Unfortunately, I'm going to have to wait a couple weeks to tear it apart to find out exactly what it is. When I get it out and torn down, I'll let everyone know what I find. Thanks to everyone for the help.
Fbird

 

Well, I finally got a chance to rip into the motor. Here's the problem(s). There were plenty loose bolts, intake, exhaust manifolds, things like that. I was thinking maybe I did have an exhaust leak until I got the oil pan off. The #1 bearing was toasted. The rod was just rocking back and forth on the crank. So, that explains the knock! Then I took out the piston, and found the other problem. The compression ring was broken. No compression=no power! Hopefully that will be it. Thanks again to everyone for the help.
Fbird

 

I got my 350 shortblock in today. I ripped it all the way down. It will be on it's way to the machine shop for some new cam bearings and a bath. I'm going to order the rest of the stuff to rebuild it tonight. I'm going to use my 305 tpi setup, 19# injectors, 305 chip and 305 heads. I'm going to port the heads and intake some. I'm also adding a set of headers I receintly picked up. Hopefully I'll be able to pick up the rest of it (22# injectors, chip, heads, runners) later. I know this isn't going to be the best possible setup, but I'm working on a tight budget here So, do you guys think I'll notice much of a difference than stock? I still have the 5-speed (for now) and 3.45 gears. Thanks
Fbird

 

Sorry to hear it was that bad.

You should see some decent power increase with the new 350. Say maybe 25 more. Maybe more with the exhuast upgrades.

Just make sure your compression isnt gonna be to high with those 305 heads.

 

The machine work for the 305 cost the same as the short block I got. I don't mind the extra cubes though. I'm trying to get my hands on some 350 heads, but I might have to use the 305 for now. I don't think the compression will be toooo high. I guess I'll have to wait and see. Thanks,
FBird

 

The 350 is in and running. I have a little problem with the oil pressure right now, but everything else is good. I only have 100 miles on it right now, but I can tell you it has MUCH more power than the 305 did. I ended up with a 96 350 block and rods, new pistons, Aluminum L98 heads, and headers. I did change alot this time, but I think It payed off. We will see.

 

Short Block

 

Heads and Headers

 

Everything else.