I've been toying with the idea of getting a factory roller cam reground. Is this advisable?
Can anyone recommend somebody who's competent at roller regrinds?

Thanks

 

don't know of anyone that regrinds other makers cams, but i never ask either. most makers will regrind their own cam. why are you wanting to regrind a factory cam? lift is pretty low and you can't grind more lift into it.

 

First I'll admit that I'm not familiar with the regrinding process.
But I've got a couple of factory cams ( LB9) that I noticed, in spite of low lift, the toe of the lobe is as tall as it can be without causing interference problems. The lobe is .020 below the journal diameter, but the base circle is large creating low lift, also leaving a lot of material there to be removed in grinding a new profile.
I have recieved a quote of $100 from Howards Cams. Seems reasonable.
I'm interested in finding out what some other guys might have to say about it tho.
Should I? Shouldn't I? Who's good at it?
Any feedback appreciated, thanks.

 

If it's a flat tappet cam, don't even consider it. There are a lot better cam profiles available (new) that will cost less than $100. Once you regrind, you'll need to install new lifters anyway. You may grind through to the softer core of the cam (call Comp Cams for details), rending the cam useless except for self-defense purposes.

If it's a roller cam, you risk similar damage from regrinding. Add the cost of surface hardening, or a deep case hardening and regrind of the journals to make the cam strainght again, plus the undersized cam bearings, and your "savings" may totally evaporate.

Unless you have a custom grind in mind, or have a specialized engine application (like a 1938 Aliis Chalmers "B" four cylinder), regrinding is usually not a cost efficient nor performance upgrading option.

 

Yes you can grind more in lift by reducing the base circle more than the tip of the lobe. I agree, the metal quality will suffer & it won't be worth it in the long run.

 

The lobe tip is always as tall as it can be without causing interference problems. That's how they're all made.

For $100, I'll bet they won't warranty it if they have to take off more than about .020" of metal. Which means, you can get at most about .030" added lift without digging into the un-surface-hardened material it's made out of, assuming that the tip of the lobe os still perfect. You'll get even less added lift than that if the cam has any wear.

Not a good place to try to cheap out.

 

It sounds like a ZZ4 cam is the best bet for the price