will my stock rods be ok for this?
will my stock rods be ok for this?
I'm rebuilding a mid 70's 350 with forged 9.6:1 pistons, vortec heads and a demon carb and probably a fairly mild cam. I am wondering if the stock connecting rods are strong enough to do the job or would I be better off getting new ones?
i reused mine on a my 400 sm block .. and i haven't had any problems... the only thing i did was polish them, shot pined, put new ARP wavelocks, and then resized them...
but if i would of known then about the new powder metal rods from GM.. i would of slapped those on... and they are really cheap through GM Warehouse... and they are the strongest that they make because the supposily took the place of the pink rod?
but if i would of known then about the new powder metal rods from GM.. i would of slapped those on... and they are really cheap through GM Warehouse... and they are the strongest that they make because the supposily took the place of the pink rod?
I was going to drop some cash on rods when I read Lingenfelters' book (IIRC) who stated that stock rods are good to at least 500HP if you aren't revving beyond 6000. So I did what someone else suggested; ground off the casting flash, cleaned up the length, shotpeened and ARP bolts. Should be good to go with no problemos - especially with a mild engine combo.
Steve
Steve
Originally posted by nelliesIroc:
I'm rebuilding a mid 70's 350 with forged 9.6:1 pistons, vortec heads and a demon carb and probably a fairly mild cam. I am wondering if the stock connecting rods are strong enough to do the job or would I be better off getting new ones?
I'm rebuilding a mid 70's 350 with forged 9.6:1 pistons, vortec heads and a demon carb and probably a fairly mild cam. I am wondering if the stock connecting rods are strong enough to do the job or would I be better off getting new ones?
Use the stock rods - just make sure they are resized, along with using a quality bearing set and.......here is the most important part.... new ARP rod bolts.
According to the folks at Childs and Alberts ( the best rod manufacturer on the planet IMHO), 90% of rod failures can be traced back to improper torque on the rod bolts or bolt failure. High RPM (over 7,000 on a SBC) added with improper torque = catastrophic engine failure.
Use the ARP's, double-check torque readings (or use a stretch gauge), and you'll be fine. For under-6,000 RPM operation, you won't need to shot-peen or polish the rods.
Lastly, make sure you torque those new bolts in 3 steps - starting at 20 lb. ft., going to 35-40, then finally, to the bolt manufacturer's spec. The exact numbers should be included in the package with the new bolts. If in doubt, ask your friendly machinist - he will know.
Good luck !

BOR
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ambainb
Camaros for Sale
11
Apr 25, 2016 09:21 PM
LT1Formula
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
7
Aug 20, 2015 09:36 PM
Dialed_In
Firebirds for Sale
2
Aug 20, 2015 01:45 PM




