I guess my question is what kind of amp rating should my alternator have? My car has TPI,AC, single coolant fan and all the power goodies. I still have the stock stereo (basically the electric system is stock). Last month I replaced the alt and it lasted about an hour before the voltage requlator quit. Last weekend I replaced it with a new one. It lasted about 4 days, this morning I saw that once again the output went between 9v and 17v. Checker/Schucks or whatever they call them selves keeps giving me a 70 amp one. I also have an 88 IROC, but it has something like a 110 amp alt. I'm not sure. Also, the alternators that I keep getting are not oriented correctly, The case has to be taken apart and rotated so that the mounting holes line up (and the connections are going in the right direction) I could really use some help on this one (I really hate driving the wife's Cavlier.)

 

I've got a '84 T/A with A/C and it uses a 90-amp (or therabouts- can't remember the exact value) alternator. When I first replaced the alternator a few years ago they gave me the ~70 Amp version. While it worked fine during the day, if you tried running the headlights at night all the lights would dim on the car and the voltmeter would drop to around 11 volts whenever you hit idle. I took it back and they said I needed the heavy-duty 90 amp version, which I got and put in. Worked fine ever since.

I'd say going to a heavier duty alternator will solve your problem.

Good luck!



------------------
Original owner - '84 T/A w/stock 305HO 5-speed

 

86,

My '86 TA has a 108A alternator, RPO code K90. Check the RPO label on your car for the correct original alternator code.

This is one reason I rebuild my own alternators and starters. The auto parts grocery stores will give you an alternator that will fit, but might not be correct for your vehicle. All they have to go by is the interchange data programmed into their disputers. you can get new brushes, bearings, and a regulators for under $40.00. If the brushes and bearings alone are what failed (generally the case), the parts bill is usually less than $20.00.

Even though the alternator you have is marked "70A", or whatever, you can't rely on the markings. Rebuilders will tear down all the cores, throw all the parts into bins, test the parts, save the good ones in other bins, then grab the next part and "build" a replacement assembly. Your "70A" alternator may have a 108A rotor and a 90A stator, all jammed into a case that was originally stamped "70A". A "108A" alternator may have a 70A rotor and stator, so you can no longer trust the case markings once a unit is "factory remanufactured".

------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Make Me Bad"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0

 

88 irocs came with a 105 amp alternator. when you replace the alternator make sur your battery i fully charge or your alternator will die from the shock of charging a dead battery.