Does anyone know what the end play is on the distirbuter of an L98? Or where I could find these specs?
Moderator
Quote:
Originally posted by BWW
Does anyone know what the end play is on the distirbuter of an L98? Or where I could find these specs?
The spec is 'a lot', but they work better down around 12 - 15 thou.Originally posted by BWW
Does anyone know what the end play is on the distirbuter of an L98? Or where I could find these specs?
RBob.
Remove the distributor.
Using a dial indicator, stack of feeler gauges, or other suitable device, measure the amount of axial play in the shaft.
Remove the roll pin retaining the driven gear, then remove the gear.
Slide the shaft out the top of the distributor.
Cut a beryllium copper, Ampco, or oilite bronze washer to fit the shaft and recess at the upper end of the top bushing. File or surface grind the shim washer to the desired thickness, apply clean engine oil, and reassemble.
Or you could purchase a remanufacured distributor.
Using a dial indicator, stack of feeler gauges, or other suitable device, measure the amount of axial play in the shaft.
Remove the roll pin retaining the driven gear, then remove the gear.
Slide the shaft out the top of the distributor.
Cut a beryllium copper, Ampco, or oilite bronze washer to fit the shaft and recess at the upper end of the top bushing. File or surface grind the shim washer to the desired thickness, apply clean engine oil, and reassemble.
Or you could purchase a remanufacured distributor.
Member
Vader, are you serious about these washers? why the fancy materials? would a regular washer just get all ground up or something?
Just curious, Thanks.
Just curious, Thanks.
Vader,
Thanks for the help. I was previously thinking of adding a larger washer right above the drive gear and below the other washer. Is this a bad idea?
Thanks for the help. I was previously thinking of adding a larger washer right above the drive gear and below the other washer. Is this a bad idea?
A softer, low-friction material will not wear away the shoulder of the distributor shaft as quickly, and will redice the tendency to gall and seize.
The wear is most likely at the top end, since the distributor shaft gets pulled downward by the helical drive gears. Adding shim at the bottom will not restore the rotor and HEI reluctor (or advance weights and point cam for Kettering distributors) to the proper position and height. Having too much gap between the rotor and cap doesn't help the ignition system function well, either.
The wear is most likely at the top end, since the distributor shaft gets pulled downward by the helical drive gears. Adding shim at the bottom will not restore the rotor and HEI reluctor (or advance weights and point cam for Kettering distributors) to the proper position and height. Having too much gap between the rotor and cap doesn't help the ignition system function well, either.
Moderator
You could also get a distributor shim kit like Mr. Gasket P/N 2820 which I believe has nylon shims of varying thickness.
With whatever means you use to tighten up your distributor, remember that the aluminum housing will heat up and expand at a greater rate than the steel distributor shaft. For that reason, you need to maintain some clearance (around the suggested 0.015") to prevent binding of the distributor as the engine heats.
Member
Very good point. I shimmed my dist. to very little play, and when it heated up ( it didn't take long!), the thing was making a squealing noise. Pulled it, and shimmed a little looser, all was well. Sure got hot, though.



