while driving down the highway my 86 camaro IROC just stopped running. First it started to pop when you would let out the gas, then it died.When you would try to give it gas when starting it would just hold about a 500 rpm while continueing to push the gas in and out. The trans still locks so its not that. I was thinking it maybe a broken timing chain or a clogged cat. If it turns out to be a bad motor or something major I'm just going to drop in a 350.

The IROC has a LB9 TPI with 121k on it.
The exhaust is probably from the factory by the looks of it.

 

Fuel, spark, compression... the 3 magic ingredients. Most likely only one is missing, since it just stopped all of a sudden.

Fuel is the easiest. Squirt some starting fluid into the intake; if it runs as long as you squirt starting fluid in, then the reason it stopped is because fuel went away. Check your fuel pressure at the injector rail, injector fuses, ECM fuse, etc.

If it still doesn't run with starting fluid, check for spark. Take a spark plug wire off, hook it up to another spark plug, and lay the plug up against a metal part of the engine, making sure it's something that's connectod to ground; the block, head, intake, or an accessory bracket. Have somebody crank the motor while you watch for spark. You should see big fat purplish-white sparks. If you see little weak orange or blue ones or none at all, you have an ignition problem. Dist cap, rotor, ignition module, coil wire, coil, pickup coil.

If the motor spins and spins, and seems like it has no compression for a while; then it starts seeming like it has compression; then it starts spitting back out of the intake; then it almost runs; then it starts spitting back in the exhaust; then it starts to spin faster like it has no compression; it needs a timing set. DON'T touch the timing, don't adjust anything, don't do the "try this, try that" thing, you'll just create a bunch of extra work because you'll have to go back and put it back like it belongs after you fix it.

From your description, it sounds like a fuel issue. Probably the pump.

 

I just replaced the fuel pump about a month ago, the cap, rotor, coil, wires, and plugs are all new. Less than 120 miles new. Also, I have noticed oil on the #2 cylinder plug. Its more than likely a valve seat because when it runs hot, and you check the oil, no smoke comes out of the dipstick hole.

 

None of that has any bearing on the issue.

A valve seat (or a valve seal either for that matter) will not cause a no-run condition.

New parts can fail just like old ones can. In fact, the rule of thumb is, if you just worked on something and a problem suddenly occurs that could be related to what you just worked on (which is true in this case if you just changed the fuel pump), go back and check your work. Just swapping a part is no guarantee that there isn't a problem with it.

But all of that is just a bunch of guess work and mental self-abuse. Skip it all, waste no time or effort on such non-productive ramblings, and go directly to the solution of the problem.

Fuel, spark, compression..... which one is missing?

 

Well I took your advice and checked the fuel pump again and it is running at 42 psi. I'm going to do a compression test on all the cylinders tomorrow after work.

Also I will do the test of all the spark plugs.

Any other suggestions. Now it just won't start at all, it just turns over and over.

 

Remember, you're looking for one thing that just suddenly broke while driving. Don't let anyone tell you it's worn rings, or the engine needs rebuilt, or that sort of thing; it didn't one minute run fine, and the next minute suddenly develop a need for rings so bad the engine won't run.

Having fuel pressure is a good thing, at least you know it's probably not the pump. But that gauge reading by itself won't tell you whether fuel is actually making it into the engine. You could still have a problem somewhere in the injection system (ECM, fuses, etc.) that would prevent the injectors from injecting. It won't be sensors; again, don't let anybody tell you to replace the oxygen sensor, MAF, etc. Those things may cause a run-terrible problem, but not a no-start.

Does the engine run on starting fluid? Remember, that was step 1: find out if the missing ingredient is fuel, spark, or compression. Go back to the basics, don't outsmart yourself, just substitute the missing ingredient and see if it makes the engine run. Otherwise you'll just ending up chasing your tailk for days working on totally wrong things.

I would save the compression test for last. Except for the timing set failing, you won't be driving down the road all fine and happy, and all of a sudden in an instant, all the compression just goes away so bad the engine won't even run. Most likely it's either fuel or ignition. The only other real possibility is the timing chain/gears, which is a simple one-evening $50 repair.