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Removing the ECM

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Old Nov 17, 2000 | 01:46 PM
  #1  
Bort62's Avatar
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Removing the ECM

I have always been of the opinion that Less is More, Especially when it comes to motors.

And If you ask me, having a Computer onboard a Carbe car is Sort of Lame, All it seems to Do Is make My parts More expensive. I was wondering, If I pulled the ECM on my 85 LG4, what would it ential ? Obviously a new distributor, and a new Carb would Be in order as well, But aside from that ? Is there some vital Functioning of the ECM here that I am Missing ?

How about for california Smog check, Some tech isnt gonna go crawling around to make sure my **** is PLugged in, is he ?


Thanks in advance



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85 Z28 - Daily Driver
60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
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Old Nov 17, 2000 | 02:18 PM
  #2  
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
As a former resident of California, and a current resident of smog testing-happy Colorado, I believe I am at least somewhat qualified to answer your question.

Don't do it.

Keep your computer controlled equipment, and optimize it. You'll spend less money doing that, you'll pass smog, and you'll get better gas mileage.

1st thing that will happen is that your SES light won't work (it'll come on all the time, and you'll have to take the bulb out - or, if you leave the bulb in, it is supposed to go off when the engine starts). You just flunked your smog test.

The computer contolled equipment actually helps your mileage because of its feedback capability. It doesn't affect performance, because it goes open loop in WOT. I don't recall if the TCC lockup is disabled when you go mechanical carb & dist, but if it is, there's another hit on your mileage. Sure, you can get a kit to make it work again, but you just spent a year's worth of gas mileage.

There are plenty of things you can do that are emissions legal to make your car run better. Almost all of them are necessary even if you go with the mechanical carb & dist, so just keep the CC parts and get the other stuff (intake, cam, headers, high flow cat & cat back, dual snorkel intake, etc.).

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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R. 2.73 unlimited slip. Cat-back from '91 GTA, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LB9 w/ZZ3 cam, TBD heads, exhaust, paint, etc.).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. 0.030 over 396, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" headers, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & shift kit, 3.08 10-bolt, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Best 15.1 @ 5800' Bandimere. Daily driver while Camaro was being put together.
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Old Nov 17, 2000 | 05:43 PM
  #3  
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well, its less of a performance thing than a " My carb seems to be crapping out and ive got a garage full of mech Qjets and Vaccum advance distributors "


Was just wondering, i guess Ill Look at rebulding the carb as opposed to that quick fix :0



------------------
85 Z28 - Daily Driver
60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
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Old Nov 18, 2000 | 06:48 AM
  #4  
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From: This spot right here --->*
Car: 2002 SOM z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T-56
I am going through the same thing right now. New carb and new HEI. If you want to keep the TCC lockup (and who doesn't) then you will have to get a vacuum switch or kit from Jegs to do it. Look over the tranny board for info on that (look for some of my posts).

As for the SES bulb... I bet there is a capacitor or something that will allow it to go on for 10 seconds and then off...

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1984 z28 w/ a 357 cu in. monster engine which is looking like the posterchild for Edelbrock... all the suspension stuff... 9-bolt posi disk is in... K&N filter... 93 octane...

-=ICON Motorsports=-
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