ok the 76 block of couse is missing roller cam stuff i.e. the spider plate thing.

my old 305 from 89 has this stuff.

can i take the spider thing from the 305, drill and tap my block for it, and install it, then get a nice new cam, springs and pushrods and go? I know ill need a cam button.

or is there more to it than that?

 

You would also have to machine the lifter valley of the old case to provice a flat surface for the "dog bone" lifter retainer plates. It would be easier to install aftermarket conversion roller lifters with their own retention system.

 

I know there's some people doing this...infact someone posted a link to a guy on Ebay selling the "how to" plans, but I did a side by side comparison on a 2pc block with a 1-pc block...and IMHO, I don't think it there enough meat to machine it over the lifter bores...I could be wrong...but considering the machine costs assuming it'd work, you'd be well on your way to a set of "retro-fit" roller lifters anyway.

 

yeah i found out about the flat lifter bore thing today too... there is a "kit" on year-one that supposedly retro fits the old blocks with factory lifters, im going to call them and find out more about it.


or i may just get myself a 1 piece block.
heres a question, will all my crank/rods/pistons/heads fit onto a newer block like the L98? and the L98's from vettes are the 4bolt mains right?

 

I did it but, you have to use 3.1l roller lifters then you need pushrods that are the right length, I got all my stuff free so It was worth while for me but, if you have to buy all these things it would cost about the same or more than buying the retro fit kits from summit

 

Vetttes were not 4bolt blocks...suppose some could come that way, who knows...

Ya, about retroing an older block...the 3.1 lifters must be shorter?

I had a factory roller setup from I compared with, figured once I ground down the lifter bores to accept the retainers, it wasn't worth it, plus, I'd be too far into the block to use the retainers.


Just FYI, but I'll never do it, are the 3.1 lifters shorter than the V8 lifters?

 

yes, they are shorter than the stock roller 350 lifters but, still slightly taller than the reg. hyd lifters. (something like .2 ?) it is enough to through the rocker geometry out of wack. I know the 318 chrysler rods are correct length (given stock heads deck height and rocker arms) but, they dont have oil holes. you have to buy the special length rods $$$ (7.5" ?) I just remember its not a normal length to find

 

87-up one piece rear main crank won't fit into an earlier 86-down block, and vice versa. All your stuff should fit inside a Vette L-98 block. However, you will need to use larger 350-style pistons. Your 305 crank has smaller counter-weights than a 350 crank even though it shares the exact same stroke length. A rebalance would be required unless you find some pistons that are very close in weight to your stock 305 slugs.

 

I'm pretty sure the Corvette block has 4 bolt mains.

 

whoa damon, im not using anything from the 305 if i can help it. i want to put my rotating assy from my 355 to a newer block, but your telling me my 2 piece crank wont work in a 1 piece block? ok so i need a new crank, can i re-use my pistons?

on the other hand, retro fit lifters for $419 are cheaper than a good aftermarket forged crank so.. i may stick with this block after all.

 

A 2 piece crank will fit in a 1 piece block with an adapter from GMPP or Moroso. BTW I have a 1 piece roller 350 short block for sale if you want it, PM me.

 

What Rick said. You can use any 350 pistons in any year 350 block.

 

the above is true but you have to take into account 1 thing, was the block ever bored? are your pistons for a stock for or something bigger? if you wanna use ur pistons and they're bigger then the bore of the block you can always bore the block but your not gonna put a smaller piston in a larger bore.. jus somethin to keep in mind..

 

Shortblock Rick? I have pistons and rods already i will def. use again. the pistons are TRW .030 over, the rods 5.7" eagle Hbeams, the crank however is a factory forging, .010/.010 undersized already, and has some gouging in it now that ive taken it out i see it.

all the main bearings were down to copper and totaly screwed up. I dont need a shortblock though...

I did a little more research and somone just drilled and tapped the block for the spider plate and stuck the roller lifters in the block without problems, I got some pictures of it too. the spider plate thing holds down the lifters or whatever, whether the bores are flat or not it seems to work ? Im going to a machine shop tommarow with my heads/crank to see what they can do and check out machining lifter bores.

Rick I am interested in the block but not anything else... PM for you

 

and i just checked my block, the lifter bore tops are completelly flat. is this odd for a 70's block? it could be an 80's block, now that i think about it.

 

You could check the casting number.

 

well ah i looked at it real close today and it appears since there are no boss's for the holes to hold the spider tray down it would be bad to drill into the valley because that long line where the spider would bolt is filled with oil, there is even a tiny freeze plug in one end of it, so i dont see how drilling and tapping would work out...


on the other hand i have some of these solid roller lifters which are retro fit, all i would need is springs cam and pushrods to use em, so i may just do that. but its a shame to put a solid roller into a motor that doesnt see more than 5000 rpms.

 

I'm sure the guy who sells those instructions on eBay has some kind of disclaimer against engine damage.....

"I saw it on the Internet, it must be true!!!"