I have a 88 ta 305 every once in a while the service eng. lite comes on and the car runs bad. When this happens the idle is ok. From idel to about 1800 rpm is ok. If I take off slow it is ok. But if I give it gas fast it wont get over 2000-2500 rpms then it starts to cut out but does not stall. Even in neutral I can punch it and it cuts out about 2000 rpms. The first time this happend It spit out a code 33 I put in a new MAF and MAF power realy. Was going to replace the burn off relay but the parts guy got all conff. when I asked for this. Just put a new ign moduel and pickup new cap and rotor about a month ago also. HELP!!!!!!!!

 

My '87 GTA 350 L98 was *JUST* doing almost the same thing. I would be driven along nice, and then the car would jerk, rpms drop to idle, and not go above 1000, if I hit the gas it would act like it would stall, when I let off, then it would go up to 1000 rpm, but not over. Checked the codes, I had 22, 33, 43, and 44. Spark knock happened aroud 4500 rpm..hard accells, it would knock a little. The MAF, I thought was poor wiring, but re-wiring didn't fix it. I decided to tackle the 22, Throttle Position Sensor as per GMTech's advice. Well, you should measure between the middle wire, and the top wire w/ a volt meter. At idle, you should read .54 volts. If not losen the sensor and twist it until you get .54 volts. Well, mine wouldn't. I had to adjust the screw on the other side of the throttle body to push the idle up some. The code 33 was caused by the cars computer thinking throttle was say at 1/2 but the computer thinking it was at 1/4 or 1/8. Therefore, it figured there must be too much air. Not only did this fix my power cutting out problem, but the car starts up nice in the mornings now too! YOu might not have the same exact problem. Try it out and see, checking your TPS will only help the car!
God luck
Corry