I am halfway done with my intake gasket replacement and I have tried to get my distibutor back in but it wont go.
I can get it to go in but its off from the mark I made as to where the "rotor" was before I pulled it.
When I pull it out to move the gear, so when I put it back in it will line up with the mark it WONT GO in all the way.....SOB what could be wrong?...
HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

LOL....thanks

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wishmister@yahoo.com

1987 White IROC-Z
305 TPI LB9
700-R4 auto tranny
87,000 miles
Very Clean car
Performance Resource Chip
Flowmaster Muffler
Throttle Body Coolant bypass
TPIS air Foil
K&N's
Gutted air box
Accel 8.0 plug wires
Moroso Super Coil
Blue Streak Cap and Rotor
AC Delco Rapidfire plugs
Mobil 1 15/50 Synthetic motor oil
Mobil 1 synthetic Trans fluid.

 

Wish,

Install the distributor with the rotor aligned toward the correct cylinder, then hand crank the engine until the distributor falls into place. It's pretty likely the the oil pump shaft has moved out of alignment, and shoudl fall right into place after less than 180° of cam rotation.

If that doesn't work, post back and we'll go down the list of possibilities.

------------------
Later,
Vader
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"No matter how hard you try you can't stop us now"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0

 

When I pulled my dis. the rotor was pointing directly towards the the firewall. alls I did was put a mark on the firewall and then pulled the distributor. Shouldnt it just fall right back into place?
Man this intake was a job. I have no clue what your talking about doing VADAR.

Im going back out to work on the car, I'll check back in a bit...
Please guys help me out, this is the first big problem Ive had...


[This message has been edited by Wishmaster's87IROC (edited November 22, 2000).]

 

Wish, when you tried putting it back in did you rotate the dist. a tad couter-clockwise before dropping it in?

 

what vader's talking about will work for sure, but if i'm interpreting it right, it'd either take a while with one person, or not quite as long if you got one person to hand turn the crank while you messing w/distributor. i couldnt get mine in forever... its just not lining up quite right at the bottom, just take a flash light n look way down too see what direction the notch is, and light up your distributor that way. even after i got mine in, it was quite a ways off, and was hard as ***** to adjust the timing right, but a friend helped.. good luck, just keep messing with it till it falls down in.

 

When it goes in that last little bit, the rotor will turn more than likely away from where you want it to be. Try turning it counter clockwise one tooth, and reinstall it... see if that works.
One thing you can do if that doesnt work is use a LONG screwdriver, and turn the oil pump shaft to where it needs to be.

 

Like others have said, there are essentially two ways to install the distributor.

One is using the long screwdriver and the other is bumping or turning the engine with the distributor installed as far down as it will go. At some point the distributor and oil pump drive shaft will line up and the distributor will drop all the way down.

I'll send you a file on how to do it. Anyone else who's interested is seeing it just let me know.

Jake

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1986 Corvette Coupe, 415 CID, Edelbrock 6073s, ZZ9




[This message has been edited by JakeJr (edited November 22, 2000).]

 

I wouldn't bump the engine, becuase then the mark on the firewall won't mean squat. You need to get a long srewdriver and turn the oil pump driveshaft so that it lines up with the bottom of the distributer.

------------------
If you live in Southeastern US, check us out!
South East Thirdgen


ASE Master Tech + L1
Savannah, GA

'87 Trans Am
S/D TPI retrofit including functional PassKey,
22# injectors,
JET AFPR,
Ported Plenum,
TB Coolant Bypass,
SSM SFC,
Boxed LCAs,
8mm Accel wires,
Flowmaster Exhaust,
16" GTA rims,
Corvette Servo,
KYB Shocks
-->14.97 @ 94.9 MPH<--

'97 Bonneville SSE

 

I know exactly what you are talking about. All you need to do is to drop the distributor in and pull it out about 7-8 times. Each time, the shaft will go in the same direction, but the rotor will turn a little each time you drop it in. Eventually, the rotor will line up with the mark you made and the shaft will go down all the way like it should.

I think it is because the oil pump rotates a little each time.

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1984 z28 w/ a 357 cu in. monster engine which is looking like the posterchild for Edelbrock... all the suspension stuff... 9-bolt posi disk is in... K&N filter... 93 octane...

-=ICON Motorsports=-

 

Turn the Motor To TDC, then take a Long scredriver and turn the oil pump shaft Untill it points to the #5 Cylinder. Then Drop the Dist In Ontop of it so that the Rotor Points at the #5.

That will Make it Much easier to Time When You want to get it Starte back up, and Ensure You arent 180 over




------------------
85 Z28 - Daily Driver
60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )

 

I got it in guys, thanks for the help.

All I did was look down the shaft to see which way that thingy was pointing and then I made sure that the bottom of my DIS. was aiming in the same direction. After I few tries it droped right in....MAN I GOT SCaRED.
and i damn sure wasnt going to start bumping the engine over...then I nver would have gotten it lined back up...

One more question should I fill the intake back up with coolant? or just leave it dry?


also should I change the oil?

I SWEAR this damn car BETTER not leak, or I going to sell it...DAMN!!!!!!!

 

DEFINATELY change the oil! You most definately got some coolant in it, and oil with coolant is very bad!

I wouldn't worry about putting coolant in the intake, it will fill up just fine when you fill the cooling system through the radiator.

Good luck!

------------------
Working on:
'84 Z28 LG4 305
Added dual elec fans.
145 MPH IROC Speedo
Building 430 HP 350
using primarily GMPP parts.
Block is in shop!

Awaiting results from all 8 ASE tests.

Starting to look like the Kicker poster child!

 

Change the oil before you ever crank it up. Antifreeze will eat your engine bearings for lunch.

------------------
If you live in Southeastern US, check us out!
South East Thirdgen


ASE Master Tech + L1
Savannah, GA

'87 Trans Am
S/D TPI retrofit including functional PassKey,
22# injectors,
JET AFPR,
Ported Plenum,
TB Coolant Bypass,
SSM SFC,
Boxed LCAs,
8mm Accel wires,
Flowmaster Exhaust,
16" GTA rims,
Corvette Servo,
KYB Shocks
-->14.97 @ 94.9 MPH<--

'97 Bonneville SSE