Well I was under the car and cranked it up to see where the oil was coming from and it was coming from the back/top of the motor.
I then cranked it back up and crawled up in the engine bay with a flashlight and looked and looked.
I finally saw the oil coming out!!!!!!!...DAMN!
Its coming from the oil pressure sending unit. Not the unit itself because I changed that during the gasket fix...the oil is coming fom the part that you screw into the block....I put PST sealant on that but I guess I didnt put enough.

How can I fix that without pulling all that CRAP back off?

I tell what I did notice, when I had it off to clean it and was going to screw it in tight, it would not get TIGHT. I had to back it off so it would be pointing in the right direction "towards the drivers side"
if I would have gotten it tight then I would not have gotten my intake and plenum on...


How can I fix it?.....just cover it with sealant?.....man I swear I could just cuss up a storm.....Im so pissed....cause I was thinking that it would leak......and low and behold...I bet it was that all along...

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wishmister@yahoo.com

1987 White IROC-Z
305 TPI LB9 273 Rear Gear
700-R4 auto tranny
97,000 miles
KYB's
Performance Resource Chip
Flowmaster Muffler
Ported/Polished Plenum by "Daniel Burk"
Holley AFPR
Throttle Body Coolant bypass
TPIS air Foil
TPIS MAT Relocation Kit
K&N's
Gutted air box
Accel 8.0 plug wires
Moroso Super Coil
Blue Streak Cap and Rotor
Boush Patinum +4's
Mobil 1 15/50 Synthetic motor oil
Mobil 1 synthetic Trans fluid.

 

Is the adaptor brass? I've found that pipe threads frequently need to be tightened progressively tighter each time you take them apart. If a normal thread sealer won't do the job, you might try using some "J-B Weld" epxoy on the threads of the adaptor.
Just combine the two parts, and put them on the threads of the adaptor. Then before it sets up screw it into the block. I think you should probably let the car sit overnight after doing this before starting the engine. If you ever have to remove the adaptor, just heat it with a torch.

 

You said when you installed the fitting you tightened it then backed it off to line up the sender. That's where your leak probably came from. Pipe fittings are prone to leak if tighen then back them off. You'll have to take it off to fix the leak. Clean the threads and aplly a couple layers of teflon pipe tape. Then screw in the fitting. Once you start tighening it, do not back it off. Just get it snug and in the position you want it. Start it and see if it leaks. If it does tighen it another turn. That should fix it for you. Good luck.

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Better to keep one's mouth closed and be thought a fool, than to open
it and remove all doubt.(Mark Twain)
Homepage of VTCamaro/Arntzman
Need Wiring Diagrams??
darntz@vt.edu

 

First of all, RUSS quick make another post, your at 666.....LOL

Do you think I can get that unit off without taking the plenum and stuff off?,,,,I know I;ll have tot take the distributor back off but thats no problem....has anyone ever taken that unit off all the way down to the block...?...thanks guys

 

Wish,

You should be able to remove the sensor with the intake in place. In order to repair the problem, get a close nipple and hex coupler, then thread your sensor back into the coupler as tight as you want without interfering with the intake. There is generally plenty of space above the sensor to mount it higher. Th ePST shouls seal it permanently if you don't back off the thread once it seats.

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Later,
Vader
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"No matter how hard you try you can't stop us now"
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Ok, you lost me. What is a close nipple or/and a hex coupler?
You mean like take it off all the way down to to motor and then put some kind of adapter on it and then attach the Oil Sending unit back to that?....you wouldnt happen to have any pictures would you?

 

Wish,

A close nipple is a pipe nipple that is threaded over its entire length, but is still tapered thread at each end. These will set you back about 20¢ at your hardware store. A hex coupling is a six-sided coupling - like a very long nut with tapered pipe threads at each end. These are really pricey, at about 70¢ each. This should effectively extend the port upward by about 1½" and allow you to completely seat teh oil pressure sensor without interfering with the intake.

Sorry, no photos of the assembled fittings this time.

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Later,
Vader
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"No matter how hard you try you can't stop us now"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0