Lots of cam installation questions....
Lots of cam installation questions....
These are concerning the installation of the LT4 HOT Cam in my 87 IROC with the L98. I have never done an in-car cam installation before, but I do have a great deal of automotive knowledge, so I do feel comfortable doing this just so long as I can get a few questions answered.
1. What special tools will I need to do the installation?
2. Also what sort of lubes and additives will I need, and how much will this cost?
3. Will I need to drop the oil pan to pull off the timing chain and timing chain cover, if so, how do I do this?
4. Is it nessassary to get to the lifters when doing this, in other words, will I need to pull the TPI off?
5. What all gaskets will I need to buy, and how much should I expect to spend on this?
Thank you, and I am sure I will have more along the way.
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1987 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z
L98 TPI 350 (5.7L)
TH 700R-4 Transmission with 2.77:1 Rear End
Current Mods: Edelbrock TES 1 5/8" Headers, Hooker 3" Aerochamber Cat-Back System, Performance Resource Chip with 160* Thermostat, Accel Ignition Coil, Cap, Rotor, 8.8mm Wires, K&N Filters, JET TPI Air Foil, All Free Mods, Falken ZIEX Z-Rated Tires.
Best ET : 14.32 @ 97.7mph
(corrected for elevation)
Soon to come: LT4 HOT Cam, Air Flow Research 190cc Heads, 2800 RPM Stall Converter and SLP 3.70 Rear End Gears.
1. What special tools will I need to do the installation?
2. Also what sort of lubes and additives will I need, and how much will this cost?
3. Will I need to drop the oil pan to pull off the timing chain and timing chain cover, if so, how do I do this?
4. Is it nessassary to get to the lifters when doing this, in other words, will I need to pull the TPI off?
5. What all gaskets will I need to buy, and how much should I expect to spend on this?
Thank you, and I am sure I will have more along the way.
------------------
1987 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z
L98 TPI 350 (5.7L)
TH 700R-4 Transmission with 2.77:1 Rear End
Current Mods: Edelbrock TES 1 5/8" Headers, Hooker 3" Aerochamber Cat-Back System, Performance Resource Chip with 160* Thermostat, Accel Ignition Coil, Cap, Rotor, 8.8mm Wires, K&N Filters, JET TPI Air Foil, All Free Mods, Falken ZIEX Z-Rated Tires.
Best ET : 14.32 @ 97.7mph
(corrected for elevation)
Soon to come: LT4 HOT Cam, Air Flow Research 190cc Heads, 2800 RPM Stall Converter and SLP 3.70 Rear End Gears.
torx sockets, dmaper puller and installer,you may or may not need to drop the oil pan. i've got luckey before and never had to, cut the lip off the back side of the timing cover will make it easier to get back on. yeah you have to pull the tpi stuff to pull the lifters. you don't have to replace roller lifters when you do a cam swap. you'd need a intake and timing gasket set. i use lubriplate engine assembly lube on roller cams. i'd break the cam in with 30w oil.
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-=ICON MOTORSPORTS=-
1st & 3rd
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-=ICON MOTORSPORTS=-
1st & 3rd
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Dan87IROC-Z:
[B]These are concerning the installation of the LT4 HOT Cam in my 87 IROC with the L98. I have never done an in-car cam installation before, but I do have a great deal of automotive knowledge, so I do feel comfortable doing this just so long as I can get a few questions answered.
1. What special tools will I need to do the installation?
2. Also what sort of lubes and additives will I need, and how much will this cost?
3. Will I need to drop the oil pan to pull off the timing chain and timing chain cover, if so, how do I do this?
4. Is it nessassary to get to the lifters when doing this, in other words, will I need to pull the TPI off?
5. What all gaskets will I need to buy, and how much should I expect to spend on this?
Thank you, and I am sure I will have more along the way.
Since it's a roller cam, it doesn't really require any special lubes because it doesn't have to be broken in. I'd just use a good thick oil like 20w-50 to lube up the lobes and the main journals before you put it in. As far as special tools, you'll need a harmonic balancer puller, and if you're replacing your timing chain and gears with a new set, you'll need a two or three jaw gear puller to remove the old gear from your crankshaft snout. By the way, a pipe that fits over the snout works great for driving the new gear on. I use an old intake manifold breather tube, it's the perfect size for this. If I were you, I'd just loosen the oil pan bolts and carefully pry it down a bit to allow you to pull the timing cover off. As far as gaskets, you can buy a timing chain set from Fel-Pro that includes the timing cover gasket and crank seal, and water pump gaskets. You'll also have to remove your TPI to change your cam, so you'll need the gaskets to reassemble it, and the intake manifold to head gaskets. You have to pull the lifters out to change the cam, otherwise, they'll drop down when you attempt to pull your old cam out. Since I haven't changed the cam in the car on one of these, the only gray area I have about it is if you can clear the A/C condensor when pulling the camshaft out. It's easy to remove the radiator, but I don't know how easy it is to move the A/C condensor out of the way without disconnecting the lines. This concerns me on my car because the A/C works great, and I'd hate to have to discharge it. Good luck on the install, and hopefully someone on here has a good suggestion on what to do about that condensor core.
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89RS w/350 TPI; 69RS/SS w/450 HP 350/Muncie 4-Speed "Too weird to live, too rare to die."
[B]These are concerning the installation of the LT4 HOT Cam in my 87 IROC with the L98. I have never done an in-car cam installation before, but I do have a great deal of automotive knowledge, so I do feel comfortable doing this just so long as I can get a few questions answered.
1. What special tools will I need to do the installation?
2. Also what sort of lubes and additives will I need, and how much will this cost?
3. Will I need to drop the oil pan to pull off the timing chain and timing chain cover, if so, how do I do this?
4. Is it nessassary to get to the lifters when doing this, in other words, will I need to pull the TPI off?
5. What all gaskets will I need to buy, and how much should I expect to spend on this?
Thank you, and I am sure I will have more along the way.
Since it's a roller cam, it doesn't really require any special lubes because it doesn't have to be broken in. I'd just use a good thick oil like 20w-50 to lube up the lobes and the main journals before you put it in. As far as special tools, you'll need a harmonic balancer puller, and if you're replacing your timing chain and gears with a new set, you'll need a two or three jaw gear puller to remove the old gear from your crankshaft snout. By the way, a pipe that fits over the snout works great for driving the new gear on. I use an old intake manifold breather tube, it's the perfect size for this. If I were you, I'd just loosen the oil pan bolts and carefully pry it down a bit to allow you to pull the timing cover off. As far as gaskets, you can buy a timing chain set from Fel-Pro that includes the timing cover gasket and crank seal, and water pump gaskets. You'll also have to remove your TPI to change your cam, so you'll need the gaskets to reassemble it, and the intake manifold to head gaskets. You have to pull the lifters out to change the cam, otherwise, they'll drop down when you attempt to pull your old cam out. Since I haven't changed the cam in the car on one of these, the only gray area I have about it is if you can clear the A/C condensor when pulling the camshaft out. It's easy to remove the radiator, but I don't know how easy it is to move the A/C condensor out of the way without disconnecting the lines. This concerns me on my car because the A/C works great, and I'd hate to have to discharge it. Good luck on the install, and hopefully someone on here has a good suggestion on what to do about that condensor core.
------------------
89RS w/350 TPI; 69RS/SS w/450 HP 350/Muncie 4-Speed "Too weird to live, too rare to die."
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 5,183
Likes: 42
From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
Other than whats been suggested above, I'd also suggest making up a cam installtion tool...otherwise you'll get the cam about 1/2 way in, and it'll start dragging over the bearings and possibly nicking them up.
I don't know how much room you'll have to work with when installing a cam with the motor still in the car, so you may want to eyeball it ahead of time.
I don't know how much room you'll have to work with when installing a cam with the motor still in the car, so you may want to eyeball it ahead of time.
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Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
You will have to remove the condenser. However, you don't have to unhook it; you can move the condenser and compressor together off to the side without busting it open.
You will have to remove or severely sodomize the vertical brace below the hood latch in order to have enough room to clear the cam. I would recommend removal. Use a cam gear as a "handle" to control the cam as you slide it in and out, to avoid damaging the bearings. BTW a gear on the cam will not clear the bracket no matter how severely you sodomize it.
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
You will have to remove or severely sodomize the vertical brace below the hood latch in order to have enough room to clear the cam. I would recommend removal. Use a cam gear as a "handle" to control the cam as you slide it in and out, to avoid damaging the bearings. BTW a gear on the cam will not clear the bracket no matter how severely you sodomize it.
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
Thanks guys, any other stuff I need to know?
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1987 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z
L98 TPI 350 (5.7L)
TH 700R-4 Transmission with 2.77:1 Rear End
Current Mods: Edelbrock TES 1 5/8" Headers, Hooker 3" Aerochamber Cat-Back System, Performance Resource Chip with 160* Thermostat, Accel Ignition Coil, Cap, Rotor, 8.8mm Wires, K&N Filters, JET TPI Air Foil, All Free Mods, Falken ZIEX Z-Rated Tires.
Best ET : 14.32 @ 97.7mph
(corrected for elevation)
Soon to come: LT4 HOT Cam, Air Flow Research 190cc Heads, 2800 RPM Stall Converter and SLP 3.70 Rear End Gears.
------------------
1987 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z
L98 TPI 350 (5.7L)
TH 700R-4 Transmission with 2.77:1 Rear End
Current Mods: Edelbrock TES 1 5/8" Headers, Hooker 3" Aerochamber Cat-Back System, Performance Resource Chip with 160* Thermostat, Accel Ignition Coil, Cap, Rotor, 8.8mm Wires, K&N Filters, JET TPI Air Foil, All Free Mods, Falken ZIEX Z-Rated Tires.
Best ET : 14.32 @ 97.7mph
(corrected for elevation)
Soon to come: LT4 HOT Cam, Air Flow Research 190cc Heads, 2800 RPM Stall Converter and SLP 3.70 Rear End Gears.
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