Very serious electrical problem
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 328
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From: Grand Rapids, Michigan
Car: Iroc-Z
Engine: 355 AFR'd HSR
Transmission: 700R4
Very serious electrical problem
Guys, I developed a very serious electrical problem thats getting worse.
Story: I hammered on it one night and my guage cluster fuse popped, the guages went dead escept for the speedo. The little "open door" tone from that little speaker under the dash was constant. So I put a 25 amp fuse in there and that held it for 3 days. Then I had to resort to 30 amp fuses. Now, NO fuse will hold the circuit and the car is almost undriveable. I cannot even come to a complete stop without being HARD on the gas and brake at the same time. It feels like anything under 1500 rpm it wants to spit and sputter until it almost dies, its like the fuel pump is cutting in and out until a certain rpm. Either that or it feels like when your TPS sensor goes out and there is a sputtering dead spot.
So, what the hell do I do??? Any suggestions?
Story: I hammered on it one night and my guage cluster fuse popped, the guages went dead escept for the speedo. The little "open door" tone from that little speaker under the dash was constant. So I put a 25 amp fuse in there and that held it for 3 days. Then I had to resort to 30 amp fuses. Now, NO fuse will hold the circuit and the car is almost undriveable. I cannot even come to a complete stop without being HARD on the gas and brake at the same time. It feels like anything under 1500 rpm it wants to spit and sputter until it almost dies, its like the fuel pump is cutting in and out until a certain rpm. Either that or it feels like when your TPS sensor goes out and there is a sputtering dead spot.
So, what the hell do I do??? Any suggestions?
what have you been doing with the programming? not that this would be a reason for such things but i know you were doing a little with it and i wonder if something just went completely wrong? again, i'm sure it's not the cause....just curious.
have you changed anything electrically lately or even added something possibly?
have you changed anything electrically lately or even added something possibly?
Put down your box of spare fuses and grab your ohmmeter. The GAGE fuse feeds power to many of the ECM load devices and some engine sensors. It's likely that you have a failing sensor or a developing short to ground in the harness.
Incidentally, the factory selected the fuse ratings based on the highest anticipated load of the circuit being protected. Increasing the size of the fuse is never a good idea, since only more damage can occur as a result.
Incidentally, the factory selected the fuse ratings based on the highest anticipated load of the circuit being protected. Increasing the size of the fuse is never a good idea, since only more damage can occur as a result.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 328
Likes: 0
From: Grand Rapids, Michigan
Car: Iroc-Z
Engine: 355 AFR'd HSR
Transmission: 700R4
ok, I have no EGR stuff, no emissions stuff left.
ALSO, I notice that I don't have lockup on the convertor when that fuse is removed. I almost want to say that this problem may be related to the convertor. It seemed like also what happens is that the tach, when the circuit still worked, would jump 200 rpm at highway cruise. I noted that the tach would jump right before the fuse popped most of the time.
The car will stall if I let it idle on its own for 30 seconds, it should also be noted that I have no IAC controlling the idle so that means that I am idling off the throttle blades. That actually takes somthing out of the equation I guess. I don't get any error codes when this happens so its not "appearing" on the surface to be a sensor related problem. I dunno... what and where do I check for problems. That schematic was a bit confusing in that it said in certain portions "VIN G V6 ONLY"...
Where do I start???
Also, I have not changed ANYTHING in the last like 2 months whatsoever...... I'm lost.
ALSO, I notice that I don't have lockup on the convertor when that fuse is removed. I almost want to say that this problem may be related to the convertor. It seemed like also what happens is that the tach, when the circuit still worked, would jump 200 rpm at highway cruise. I noted that the tach would jump right before the fuse popped most of the time.
The car will stall if I let it idle on its own for 30 seconds, it should also be noted that I have no IAC controlling the idle so that means that I am idling off the throttle blades. That actually takes somthing out of the equation I guess. I don't get any error codes when this happens so its not "appearing" on the surface to be a sensor related problem. I dunno... what and where do I check for problems. That schematic was a bit confusing in that it said in certain portions "VIN G V6 ONLY"...
Where do I start???
Also, I have not changed ANYTHING in the last like 2 months whatsoever...... I'm lost.
Ive run into the same problem oddly enough and its so intermittant that I still have not resolved it. Out of the blue usually when im getting on my car a little bit Ill pop the gauge fuse and that annoying tone comes on.
It will happen several times in a row(over the span of say a week) and i just keep changing the fuse and then it will go away for awhile, months usually, and then it rears its ugly head again. It hasnt done it in a long time which means its overdue
mine always ran fine though
I hope you figure it out so i can too
It will happen several times in a row(over the span of say a week) and i just keep changing the fuse and then it will go away for awhile, months usually, and then it rears its ugly head again. It hasnt done it in a long time which means its overdue
mine always ran fine though
I hope you figure it out so i can too
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