Are they any good? The guy selling them stated they are chevy original and should be a litle stronger that the stock i-profile..

I've never even heard of x-profile... I and H profile yes but never x-profile...

 

never heard of x and i can't picture how they'd be stronger than a h rod

 

He claimed that there stronger that the I-profile...

 

He probably meant these...

They are an I-beam rod, like any other; nothing unusual about their "profile". They're the strongest of the old forged rods that you would find in a factory motor, before the PM rods came out. There used to be rods with no marking, ones with a "B" or an "O", and ones with "X"; the "X" rods were the ones everybody used to look for.

Don't pay more than about $100 for a full set of re-worked ones .... note I said "full set", not just 8 rods from somewhere.

 

i allready agreed to pay 230€ for a 350 block, the rod and new factory cast pistons with mollyrings

Is that a bad deal? its about 250$

Thanks for the info. How much hp would these rods take aproxometly? I'm gonna use a new forged eagle 400cid crank so i don't want the rod to be the weak link.

 

If you're trying to build a 383 with those rods, you're going to be doing alot of grinding.

The weak link is the rod bolts. Put good bolts in them, they should be good to 6500 RPM. It's hard to put a HP limit on such things, because HP isn't what kills them; it's high RPMs. But a 383 that makes meaningful power at 6500 RPM would probably be able to put out about 450 HP or so.

 

so very true...

i'm targeting the 6000-6500rpm range for change poisnts...
dd2003 is very usefull to get an idea of how cams work =)

What are the areas that i can grind and polish to lighten them?

and yes i am builing a 383...

 

Fitting those rods into that block with that stroke will require grinding on the block. You will need to grind near the oil pan rail, probably at the bottom of the cylinders, and you may even need to grind the rod bolts to clear the cam.

Stock 400 rods have shorter bolts with a special shape to their outside edge, to give some extra clearance at those areas.

I also noticed you mentioned "factory cast pistons". If those are for a 350, then if you use them with those rods and a 400 crank, they will stick out of the top of the block about .135" (a little over 3mm) at TDC. Also, the 400 crank (if it's a stock-spec 400 crank) will have main journals that are .200" too large to fit into 350 bearings.

You need a crank with the 400 stroke but the 350 main journal diameter to build a 383; and you need pistons with the piston pin moved up .135" higher toward the top of the piston, to build a 383 with stock 350 rods.

 

sorry... forgot to mention that the crank is a stroker....

I know that the block needs grinding.. and so do the rods..

But where do i take meterial off to lighten them but not lose strenth??

the rods are 5.7".. will they stick out with the stroker crank?

 

so i need new pistons to stroke the engine

darn... now i have to sell the pistons

A good reason to buy the lightest pistons i can find within a reasonal price and bore the block