Solid cam?
12-09-2000, 11:01 AM
#1
TGO Supporter
Thread Starter
Solid cam?
anyone run a solid cam any more? i remember way back when it wasn't even a choice betwen solid and hydroilc. now i want to run a solid in a 355 i'm working on and would like some opinions from the few people, if any, that have actually had both.
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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
12-09-2000, 11:50 AM
#2
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Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
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Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
I had one in my 383 and I'm putting one in my 454.
Solid cams are just more maintanence. I adjust my valves 3 or 4 times a year. They're noisier than hydraulics if you drive on the street. They're better for high rpm use (5000+). You can readjust the valve lash to change the cam profile. By tightening the lash you increase lift and duration. Loosening decreases lift and duration. This allows you to fine tune the cam for different conditions or tracks.
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Stephen's racing page
87 IROC-Z Pro ET Bracket Race Car
383 stroker (carbed) with double hump cast iron heads and pump gas
454 Big Block buildup now in progress for the 2001 racing season
Best results before the 383 blew up
Best ET on a time slip: 11.857 altitude corrected to 11.163
Best MPH on a time slip: 117.87 altitude corrected to 126.10
Best 60 foot: 1.662
Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association
87 IROC bracket car
91 454SS daily driver
95 Homebuilt Harley
Solid cams are just more maintanence. I adjust my valves 3 or 4 times a year. They're noisier than hydraulics if you drive on the street. They're better for high rpm use (5000+). You can readjust the valve lash to change the cam profile. By tightening the lash you increase lift and duration. Loosening decreases lift and duration. This allows you to fine tune the cam for different conditions or tracks.
------------------
Stephen's racing page
87 IROC-Z Pro ET Bracket Race Car
383 stroker (carbed) with double hump cast iron heads and pump gas
454 Big Block buildup now in progress for the 2001 racing season
Best results before the 383 blew up
Best ET on a time slip: 11.857 altitude corrected to 11.163
Best MPH on a time slip: 117.87 altitude corrected to 126.10
Best 60 foot: 1.662
Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association
87 IROC bracket car
91 454SS daily driver
95 Homebuilt Harley
12-09-2000, 12:12 PM
#3
TGO Supporter
Thread Starter
yeah stephen i had typed most of what you wrote and then backspaced it out. i think i'm going with a solid cam. it's not my engine so maintance isn't a concern for me.
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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
12-09-2000, 12:54 PM
#4
Ed,
You DO mean a solid roller, don't you? Solid rollers will require less frequent adjustment, but finding one in a streetable grind might be a chore. The beauty is you can get various rockers to compliment the abilty to "tune" the cam grind, including break-in rockers at lower ratios (1.2 and 1.3) for street driving.
And I wonder what the price difference would be between a Comp Cams 1318-16 versus a 1318-12. Any ideas?
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Later,
Vader
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"No matter how hard you try you can't stop us now"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0
You DO mean a solid roller, don't you? Solid rollers will require less frequent adjustment, but finding one in a streetable grind might be a chore. The beauty is you can get various rockers to compliment the abilty to "tune" the cam grind, including break-in rockers at lower ratios (1.2 and 1.3) for street driving.
And I wonder what the price difference would be between a Comp Cams 1318-16 versus a 1318-12. Any ideas?
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Later,
Vader
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"No matter how hard you try you can't stop us now"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0
12-09-2000, 05:17 PM
#5
TGO Supporter
Thread Starter
no vader this is a solid cam for my sons car. he's wanting another cam when he puts the dart heads on.
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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
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