Today I planned on replacing the mounts, dropping the new engine, and a lot of other productive stuff. I knew that mounts on these were odd to get at because of the nut on the inside, but I wasn't sure exactly how hard.
Well, ended up taking me all day (a good 4 hours) just to get them off. I quit for the night because I'm too frustrated and it was getting dark.
Here's the question... it was hard enough to get them off, so I'm thinking it's going to be even harder to get them back on. Two of the three bolts on each mount I got off by barely getting a hold of them with wrenches (open end on two of them). So, how am I going to be able to put the nut back on? I can think of a few tricks of my own, but their not proven. I would like to see if there is someone out there that has a trick to putting them back on. I didn't take the springs out, but the engine is out.

Thanks
Ryan

 

i feel you. it is a PITA. ive never had to do it on a 3rdgen but on my 2ndgen and several A/G bodies i can say IMHO its PITA to get that bolt out. im guessing it might be a pain on most GM rear drive cars. we just never put them back in {im assuming its 1 of the top bolts}. im sure no one will recomend that but ive never had a prob leaving it out. of course none of the engines where torque monsters either. they couldnt of had more than 350 ft lbs. my point is, i just say screw em. but thats me...im lazy.

 

there have been many topics about motor mounts and changing them in the past few months a search would turn up great results. i put the nuts back on with a simple socket with the nut inside it. but u will need the flexible socket connector.

 

I've had no problems with swapping the bolts/nuts. Instead of putting the nut in the crossmember put the bolt in there and nut it on the top.

 

thats right, i forgot that we did that to our last 350 transplant on a 84 cuttlass. my fault i forgot all about it, yes it was way easier. and i remember we decided to do it that way from now on. yes i remember quite well now, i agree you should go that route. it was easier to put back then to take out. sorry buddy i just forgot all about that one.

 

I'm goin to be puttin the bolts back in today, and I'm goin to go with everyone's suggestion to put the bolt up through the bottom. I'm going to be buying all new Grade 8 bolts and nuts for it too. Plus I'm going to use some threadlock cause I've read that the bolts sometimes go loose before the mount goes bad.

Ryan

 

if you still want the nuts at the bottom


put the nut on the wrench. put a piece of electrical tape around the wrench and nut to hold it on....


then stick the wrench in there, put the bolt in, and start the nut...

you should be able to pull it off the tape.

 

Well I got the new bolts and nuts today, and put the mounts on. It only took me 30 minutes to get both on! I used washers on both sides, and this time they ended up tightening themselves after they got barely tight. I only had to hold the bolt head loosely for a second before the nut just tightened itself.
Engine is goin in tomorrow, and I'm hoping to get it almost all the way together so all I have to wait for is exhaust. Hopefully I can get everything up and running in the first few days of next week.

Ryan

 

Hey good job. Joined those of us who like to do things the hard way. But further proof that it can be done without removing the springs and a arms...