I lost three motor mount bolts (mount to frame) and none of the auto part stores have them, and I'm pretty sure they are tapered so they won't back off. I'd rather not go to GM, since they are outrageous on prices.

I know someone had to replace these bolts at one time, so what should I use?

Thanks,

Scott M.

 

not sure but i think they're 3/8-16 bolts. if not that would work. if you're worried about them backing out use poly nuts or thread locker.

------------------
ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd

 

hey, I thought about the polynuts, lock washers, etc, but with the heat and vibration, it's a brutal enviroment. Know of anyone who has done this before?

Thanks for the reply,

Scott M.

 

Go to a salvage yard and take them off another car. Ive gone there for special bolts or other small odd ball stuff. You probably wont even be charged for these bolts there.

 

You need nuts that are 'egged' like the motor mount ones. I doubt you could get raked too bad for just 3 nuts from the dealer.

------------------
Da Boid

- 4 out of 5 people think the 5th is an idiot

[This message has been edited by deadbird (edited December 17, 2000).]

 

access to the motor mount bolts require you to remove the control arms, and the springs. a little much to be doing at a bone yard.

And I was charged 11 dollars for a control arm bolt and 2 something for the nut. that's why I don't want to waste time with gm. Plus I hate going to that place anyways.

 

If you hate going to GM what the heck are you doing driving a Camaro! JEEEEZZZ, just cough up 4 or 5 buck for some bolts or go to a hardware store.

------------------
84 Camaro ZZ4 with HOT cam. 1.88 60' (12.98 @ 105MPH E.T.)
Other Mods: You name it and I have probably changed it.

91 Firebird 5.0L TBI

ASE Certified Auto Tech
LIVE AND DIE BY THE ALMIGHTY BOWTIE!

 

Just use regular, high-grade bolts. throw some lock washers and thread sealer on their and forget about 'em...worked fine for me...

MILT

------------------
"Without evil there can be no good, so it must be good to be evil some time!"

 

Is this really true? You have to take your front end apart to pull the engine



------------------
TPIS airfoil,relocated MAT,AFPR,TB h2o bypass
otherwise stock 5.0TPI
700r4, 9 bolt 3.23 g92 axle, 4 wh. disc brks.

 

Go to the local hardware/bolts store and find the correct length bolt with at least three lines on the head (six lines would be better) and then pick up three self-locking nuts and dont bother taking more than about 2 bucks with you to make the purchase.

------------------
'84Z28/'92 305TPI
'92 complete rear suspension/PBR disc/Posi/3:42
Light weight 34.5mm stabilizer bar in front
23mm sta. bar in rear
rear lowered 1" by cutting 1 1/4 coils of '84Z28 springs
comp cam, flowmaster
TB coolantbypass/shutoff valve to heater core
MAT relocated
Ram-Air(home-made) gutted air-box
IROC ground effects/wheels GY245/50's
700R4 superior shift kit/ corvette servo(excellent shift kit btw)

Rebuilt engine and transplanted it myself.

Love this engine!

freshly painted OCT. 2000 Teal with two white stripes on the hood and deck lid

LOW performance people should drive low performance vehicles!

 

1. You do not need to pull the A-arms inorder to change motor mounts. It's much easier this way but it can be done with creativity, extensions and and a swivel(put tape around the swivel joint to make it not flop around and turn the bolt not the nut so you don't cross thread it.

2. You don't need to pull the motor mounts to pull an engine. Just the bolts that bolt the motor to the mount.

I'd never use anything less than grade 8 (5 or 6 lines) and use grade 8 nuts! Most people just go pick up nuts, nuts are also stamped with grades.

I had to fix a water pump on a F*ord truck about a year ago and the bolts were in bad shape so I bought some new ones and it wasn't much more expensive then Azone would have been. If the dealership's mark up is 200% then you pay $3 instead of the $1 it costs (enormous mark up to exaggerate). I'd just buy them from the dealer and have the piece of mind.



------------------
1984 WS6 Trans Am Hartop
Former L69 Car under restoration
1984 WS6 Trans Am T-top car
4-bolt main 350, headers, Holley 650, T-5 and 3.23's.
Daily driver and restoration

 

I say try a junkyard, it can't be too hard to find a car with the a-arms off. When I was changing my struts I used a hammer on the end of the bolts and couldn't get the nuts on. I had to go to a junkyard because NOBODY else had them, not even the dealer. I don't think they even charged me.. How the heck do junkyards make any money anyways. Every time i go there they let me take stuff w/o paying.

 

thanks for all the reply's.. didn't mean for it to get this drawn out. I was just curious if you could use something else.

thanks though,

Scott McManus