Ok Im gunna start tearing down the motor and start messing with the heads and finaly swapping in that ZZ4 cam. I have a few questions, ideas, thoughts, etc.. about how I should go about this. The engine is a 1987 305 TPI auto. This will all be done with the engine in the car.

#1 any tips on taking apart tpi would be 100% helpful. Any special tools, tricks, ideas, etc im open to anything.
#2 what are some things I should look out for?

Ok now this is what I want to have done. I wana swap in the cam. Now i know the lift on this cam reaches past the limits of the stock 305 TPI springs, so I am going to have the heads worked on. The things I want done to the heads is have the heads cleaned, having the spring seat milled for bigger springs, have the heads milled for more compression and have them drill and tap them for screw in rocker studs. I also plan on using 1.6 pro mags. You might ask yourself...why? Well, im not gunna have my 305 forever, so Id like to swap the pro mags over to my next small block. Now for questions on the heads.
-Is anything I said up there not sitting right with you?
-Will milling my heads play around with how my intake will fit back on?
-about the pro mags, self aligning(sp?)?
-What do you think the cost of having all that work done?
-any other comments?

ok Now back to the valve train. What kind of springs should i be looking at? With the 1.6rr im going to have to enlarge the pushrod hole right? Will the louis tool be good enuff or should I have the shop do it? As for the push rods themselves, should i replace them? They have 100k on them probably. Ok now I am gunna port the heads myself. I plan on reading up on sitting bulls article on what to touch and what not to touch. Any type of bits i should look for to do this? Should I just get the Standard Abrasives kit and call it a day? Will i need more?

ok now to the cam. Will i need new cam bearings or will I be set with what I have? What kind of tool do i need to install this? Will i need a new cam button or anything like that? I know I will need a new timing chain, anyone have any sugestions on that?

I also need tips on head gaskets, i have a set of intake gakets already. I plan on porting the base too, along with porting some of the runners. I plan on getting an afpr too to help with tuning the fuel as I probably will be needing more. I know I will need a new prom made soon. I also plan on running a 2400 or 2600 stall tc.

Im trying to think if I left anything out but if I did, Ill post back asking for more info. Any type of help would be great really. If you think I should do something differently, please tell me. I dont want this turning into a 350 is better flame fest either. This engine will see mostly summer streets and some track time, but really a street cruser. I also plan on getting a set of headers, coated. Thanks for reading this. Any help would be great again thank you.

Alex

 

TTT anyone?

 

Forget shaving the heads, unless they need it to flatten the sealing surfaces. It just isn't worth it for the little gains you'll see, and pinging problems you'll probably cause.

1.94" intake valves. Needed.

Comp 986-16 springs, since you're machining the heads. 740-16 retainers. 1.6 rockers not such a good idea (extra lift won't provide extra flow on stock heads, even if ported). 1.5 Pro Magnums better choice. If no damage, no need for new pushrods.

Factory-type roller cams don't need a cam button. Cam bearings will most likely be okay.

Fel Pro steel shim head gaskets.

SA Deluxe kit good. Add a few carbide bits, should be able to finish off the job.

 

thank you very much! The only reason I would get 1.6's is cause I will probably put them on a different engine later on. They are the same price, and if im not gunna lose anything, I guess there is no harm right?

Thanks for the info. I was tossing the idea of 1.94 intake around too. Do you sugest new valves? I know Ill need new valves for the intake side, but how about all around?

 

Be cautious on not stripping a bolt. Mark and tag everything if you don't know your way around the TPI so you know where everything goes when you put it back together. That goes for everyhting else too.



I broke a bracket on my power sterring pump. Had 3 bolts out (all I saw). Turns out there was 4.



Check for retainer to guide clearance...and check valve spring height for the springs recommended by five7 so you know what shim sizes to get to get them set up right.


Only if they are angle milled. They will not need this. I wouyld at least have the heads surface milled flat. WIll help with that Fel Pro Steel SHim gasket at 0.015 thickness that you will use to get 0.040 quench.


Non self aligning if using the slot in the head for a guide, or if you use guideplates.


$300-400 rough guess. Shops would be happy to give you an estimate.



Do you have a set budget? Long term plan? May want to invest in some tools that will allow you to do some of the work yourself. If not, may can save some money on these heads by just pinning the press in stud...and not surface milling, and not going to bigger valve. Just clean up the ports and get a good valve job.



Search F-Bird88 for all of his posts on porting heads, too...and Rhuarch31 (sp?) The carbide bits are an excellent investment. Can use them for much more than just porting heads. The S.A.K. is a good kit to use for a 1st time. After that you will realize you can save money by just getting what you need, cheaper, from a local industrial supply shop, etc.


No.


No



Jegs...220-9-1145
Just a suggestion


Fel Pro. Consider 1094 for better quench. Clean gasket material off the block...at the same time preventing any from getting in the engine.




Once the heads are off, evrything is diconnected...You should go ahead and get those headers ready to put on. Additionally, you will have to fight off the urge for the 350 short block, since all that is left to take out is the block.


I would say surface mill the heads them flat. It's a good idea especially if going to the 0.015 gasket for better sealing.

1.94 valves will need unshrouding!!

I'd go with the higher ratio lift.

As far as new valves....if you reuse the stock, then have trhem back cut. Lot of flow there. I found that stainkess steel valves, even stock replacement versions, added about 10cfm to the flow. My personal experience. The original valves were not back cut however. If they were backcut, I don't know what the difference in flow would be.

I'd spend money on new 3.42, or 3.73 gears before I'd go and do all that though.

 

thanks smith... keep the info coming.

im looking to get a 4th gen rear end from an M6 so the gears are taken care of.

 

If you go 1.94 and want to buy new valves for those, and keep stock exhaust...

This is some flow numbers I have for the iron L98 heads. 1st row is stock w/ stock valves, 2nd row is after mild porting w/ stock valves, and 3rd row is stock replacement stainless steel valves.
Disregarding the actual flow numbers (lower than other flow benches) you can still see the improvement using new valve. Again, the original valves were not backcut...which a shop would probably do for about $20-25 I would think.

Exhaust
Lift_______CFM
0.075....35.....35...30
0.150....62.....61...63
0.225....87.....91...102
0.300....105...125...137
0.375....106...138...144
0.450....106...139...144

Later

 

I do plan on putting on headers too to go with the cat back i have on there. I guess having them cut a new valve seat for 1.94 valves would be a good idea. Well, I go home next week and I will probably call a couple of places for some prices. Thanks guys. also keep teh info coming.

 

ttt