I found this rotating assembly and it sounded like a good deal, i'm going to call them to see if the price includes a flexplate and balancer like the picture shows because wouldn't i need to have those involved if i had them balance the assembly? Here is a what the description is and a link to the site. I want to put this in a 4 bolt main 355, under afr 195's, and a stealth ram. Would it take it? Mostly street driving with probably 2 actual track trips a year. Thanks guys.


CHEVY 350 HYPEREUTECTIC PISTON 'ECONO' ENGINE KIT 699.00
Have Rotating Assembly "Computer Balanced" $ 200.00

NEW FEDERAL-MOGUL HYPEREUTECTIC FLAT TOP PISTONS, 10.0 : 1
NEW EAGLE "SIR" 5.7" I-BEAM CONNECTING RODS W/ ARP WAVELOCK BOLTS
NEW SCAT CAST STEEL 3.48" STROKE CRANKSHAFT
NEW SEALED POWER MOLY PISTON RINGS
NEW CLEVITE 77 ROD & MAIN BEARINGS

http://www.cdpautomachine.com/ecatal...ssemblies.html

 

A cast steel crank should be able to withstand the rest of your planned build. Then again, the Chinese crank and rod castings may be a little suspect, and I'd caution that you inspect and scrutinize the crank and rods cloesly before assembling anything. You may end up checking straightness of the bare crank, grinding a radius on the outboard ends of the throws, chamfering the oiling passages, removing a bunch of casting flash, and stress relieving the whole thing before assembly. Even then, you'd want to be very careful of casting porosity on both the crank and rods. Once the cast rod blanks are forged, there may not be much that can be done to treat porous castings. It's a bit of a crap-shoot. Of course, you'd have to final polish everything before assembling the rods/bearings to the crank.

As for "computer balancing", I'm not sure how that would be done, unless the process involves calculating the masses of the rods and crank couterweights, and not actually clamping on balance weights and physically testing the balance of the assembly. I'd question that one thoroughly. It's tough to beat the old tried-and-true method of determining large end rod masses and adding weight to the throws to physically balance the assembly.

Your description of the buildup would likely produce just under 500 HP at the flywheel, depending on tuning, and even a well-balanced cast iron crank can take 450 HP without problems.

 

thanks for the info leaves me much to think about i guess. i have spoken with the guy at the local speed shop and he said that he won't touch anything that he doesn't order,but he will match any mail order/internet prices. he wants $300 to balance an engine does that sound a little more believable? like it might actually accomplish something?I guess i will try to call them on monday and ask about how they balance assemblies there. thanks for the information, and please pass on some more suggestions

Josh

 

WARNING!!!! Do not get the SIR rods with the new cap-screw design. I went through 3 sets of rods and all 3 were out of round. My machine shop said the new design is crap and that Eagle is aware of the problem. The rods were torqued wrong when aligning them causing a big flucuation. Eagle was talking of a re-call on the cap screw SIR rods due to many customer complaints. I emailed my vender whom I got my parts from (gofaststuff.com) and he also mentioned orders were coming back left and right. I ended up sending out 75 more bucks and upgrading to the H beam rods. As for the crank I went with an Eagle brand and it mic'ed out perfect.

 

wow kind of a downer, but thanks for the warning nontheless, i guess i should step back and rethink this whole thing maybe, but the H-Beam rods are good? hmm i guess i need to do some more research and saving probably, well thanks guys mighta just saved me a real headache

Josh

 

Look at this site www.enginekits.com

 

Thanks, quick question

"cast crank (no more than 20X20) "

what does that mean???

Josh

 

I would say that they are saying that it is a remanufactured crank, that has its main and rod journals turned .020". So of course you would have to oreder the correct bearings.

 

makes sense thanks