Well everone, I've been helped here before I am praying someone out there has a cure for my zz4 iroc.

For the past 5 years, my car fails to restart sometimes after shut down. It does not matter if it is hot or cold. It will usually start right up after 5-10 min. The car does not experience any driving problems. I have done an injector leak down test which the car passed. No trouble codes set. The combo I have is: tpi,stock fuel reg,stock size 350 inj,stock in tank fuel pump,zz4 block.

I have spent @#$%%& in effort-time-money looking for this problem.

PLEASE HELP!

 

ID,

Welcome back!

If your injectors are not leaking down, are you at least getting fuel in the no-start circumstances? You could verify this by priming a bit with starting fluid or some gasoline pumped manually into the TB (be careful). Are the fuel rails getting pressure when the key is turned on?

Are you getting spark? A hot coil can fail to generate adequate spark at cranking voltages, but will operate marginally well once the engine is running. Just a thought.

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Later,
Vader
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"No matter how hard you try you can't stop us now"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0

 

I had an 89 Formula that did that. After replacing starter/solenoid, relays and about everything else you could think of, it turned out to be my ignition key -- yes--you read that right-- KEY!! My Formula had the security chip in the key, and it would not work all of the time. The strange thing was that my "security" light never came on. I'm not sure if yours is equipped with this feature, but my current 89 RS has it too, so I think an IROC(they may all have it in 89, I know honestly don't know)would. But like I said, I started using my other key and I never had the problem again. I even tried the faulty key again several times afterwards proving this to skeptical friend's of mine, and probably 80% of the time it would not start. So my thinking is if a bad a key won't let it crank, then if whatever "reads" the chip in the key is bad, then it would have the same effect. I know this sounds strange, but if all else fails, maybe this will help.

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82 Z28 350, Ported #882 Heads, Performer RPM cam and intake, hedman headers,650 Demon carb,
Trans: Turbo 350 w/ 4000 stall -- Rearend 7.5 w/ Richmond 4.10's, Auburn Minispool
Future plans: Dart headed, Roller cammed 383 in early '01


89 RS, L03 305, Hypertech Chip,cat delete, Dynomax exhaust,K&N open element Filter,160 stat, MSD coil --Trans:700R4 Corvette Servo -- Rearend: 7.5 GM 3.42 w/ posi-lock
http://www.bassettracing.cz28.com

 

I'll bet you $20 it's just the vats (if you have it with your zz4) If you turn the key and get battery power and the fan turns on but the starter simply doesn't engage it's vats. I just disabled mine but there are many creative ways to fix this. It could be your key like he said above or it could be a couple other things. Check an old post on the electrical board.

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89 Iroc-Z LB9 305 TPI auto 2.73 posi:
3" Dynomax "cat" back,K&N filters, TB bypass, 3" pipe in place of cat, cleaned and flow-matched injectors, 180' thermo, mild ignition mods, synthetic oil, kicker sound system, soon to attempt engine swap...

[This message has been edited by I ROCK (edited December 28, 2000).]

 

Vader- I will try some starter fluid squirted into the TB. If the car starts, what then?

 

I have felt your pain as well. I had replaced the ignition key already. (I thought I was the smartest guy on the planet when I did that,but it did not fix it.

 

My girlfriend's 94 Colt had a similar problem of not starting back up once shut off. It turned out to be the cable that runs from the battery to the starter which was corroded some where not visible. It was replaced and works fine now. When I was asking questions about her problem someone mentioned to me it might me the ignition switch. Hope this helps.

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Shouldn't bother putting this but hey what the heck:
1988 Maui Blue Firebird 305 TBI stock (w/ 190,000+ miles and still running strong )

 

There seems to be a little bit of confusion here. When you try to restart the car, does the engine crank when you turn the key, or do you get nothing? Knowing this will eliminate half of the possible causes. Meaning, if the starter engages and cranks the engine, then the problem is not VATS or your key. But if nothing happens when you turn the key, then it's not a problem with fuel or spark. If you turn the key and get a faint click then it's most likely the starter solenoid. A little more info will help us pinpoint the problem easier.

 

If it dosent crank< then I had a very Similar problem on My 79 Firebird, Turned out to be a Bad Alternator.

Napa Sucks.

** No Dude, It cant be the alternator, I JUST put that on there, Maybe its starter heat soak... **



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60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver

Livin' the Stereotype

 

Right on Vicious Z. About time someone asked a few more specifics so we can help him diagnose it!



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89RS w/350 TPI; 69RS/SS w/450 HP 350/Muncie 4-Speed "Too weird to live, too rare to die."

 

when my trans am did the same thing it turned out to be both the starter (heat soak) and the ignition switch