Hi, I've tossed the computer controlled Q-jet and distributor on
my 83 Trans Am but I have a few questions about the connectors. The
orginal connector had 4 wires (Yellow, Red, Brown, Black) and round
(tube-like) connections. My new standard HEI only has 3 wires (Red,
Brown, Black) and a square-flat connections. First I would like to
know if anyone makes an adapter so that I don't have to butcher my
factory connector off of the old compter HEI? If not, I assume I can
just cut the connector off my old computer HEI and splice it onto the
end of my new distributor (thus replacing the flat type connections
with the round-type)? Lastly, what about that Yellow wire from the
old computer connection, do I need to do anything with it?

Thanks,
TA76

 

The only thing you need to hook up to a non-computerized HEI is battery. If your car has a tch you might want to hook that up too but it isn't necessary to run. The other connector only goes to the computer.

Keep in mind, that with a non-computerized ignition, the ECM won't have any way of knowing engine speed, so it will do all sorts of strange things including light the SES light. You'll need to change to a non-computerized carb as well, and if you have an auto trans, rig up some way to work the lock-up clutch if you want to retain it. Then you can entirely remove the computer and its wiring harness, intact, without cutting or damaging anything or impairing the function of anything else in any way.

------------------
"So many Mustangs, so little time..."

 

RB83L69, thanks for the info. I'm still a little unclear though (you'll have to excuse me... I'm a newbie at some of this car stuff). I've replaced the computer controlled Qjet and my car is a 5-speed. I'm just not sure what to do with the wires coming out of the new distributor (Red,Brown,Black), surely they connect to something? The other connections (tach and something else?) on the cap I can figure out, just not sure about wires coming out of the distributor.

Thanks,
TA76

 

If that is a small plug with the 3 wires going to a plastic block that then goes into the base of the distributor, it goes into the dist cap right behind the Batt and Tach terminals, with the red wire toward the Batt end and the brown wire toward the Tach end.

You can now remove the entire computer harness. If you follow the enormous bundle of wires that comes from the right fenderwell area up over the A/C evap housing, you can simply discannect every one of the wires and vacuum lines from its sensor or whatever, and carefully pull them back. There is a large square plug like thing behind the right kick panel; that's where they go into the pass cabin to get to the ECM. The ECM is behind the dash on the pass side, looks like a silver box with 2 large plugs going to it. There should be a wiring harness going to the left; follow it back and unplug it. Remove the Check Engine bulb.

Your AIR system will not work correctly without the computer. If you still have it and want to keep it operating, you can entirely remove the big valve thing that's under the alternator; get a couple of heater hose T's; and use heater hose to hook them all up to the AIR pump's output full time. Or of course you could remove all that and plug up the holes.

------------------
"So many Mustangs, so little time..."

 

The plug with the three wires coming from the base of the distributor just plugs into the underside of the distributor cap where the square shaped part of it is. The only other connections on the distributor are in the same spot. You have a BAT terminal, and a TACH terminal. The only thing you need to make sure of is that the power wire you use for the BAT terminal is a full 12 volts with the ignition on. If you have a factory tach in your dash, hook up the power lead to the TACH terminal on the distributor so that it will work. You can use common female blade type solderless connectors to hook your leads up. It's best to use a 10-12 gauge wire for your power lead. I wouldn't suggest a power lead any smaller than 12 gauge. Since you're running a five speed, your ecm won't have any purpose at all. Whenever I've done these types of conversions, I didn't even bother to remove the ecm and its wiring. Just remove your instrument cover and pluck the check engine bulb out. Problem solved! I converted several mid eighties Chevy pickups to a Edelbrock carb and old style HEI this way and had no problems at all.



------------------
89RS w/350 TPI; 69RS/SS w/450 HP 350/Muncie 4-Speed "Too weird to live, too rare to die."

 

I changed my car from comp controlled to non-comp controlled. All I did was replace the bottom part of the distributor. I kept the same cap and rotor.
One thing about removing the ECM wire harness, make sure that if you have a non-mechanical speedo, i.e. vss send unit in the tranny, you will have to wire the VSS buffer from the tranny straight to the buffer that is next to the ECM in the car. When I cut the harness to remove the wires, my speed o stopped working, I finally got it working after a month. Pete from this board had an article on how to add an electronic speedo to your car and it included the wire schematics I needed to re-hook up my VSS to the buffer.

------------------
Zepher
'86 Pontiac Trans Am WS6, LG4 305, 5 Speed, CF DF Clutch,
Edelbrock 1406 Carb, Edelbrock Performer RPM 7101 Intake Manifold.
Edelbrock Open Element Air Cleaner: Flowmaster Exhaust, 160* Thermostat,
Grant GT Steering Wheel, MSD HEI Coil, Taylor 8mm Wires, Leather 96 Camaro SS Seats,
Alpine CD+Changer,Alpine V12 Amps, Premier TS-1040C Subs, Polk Audio highs/mids.
Best ET: 14.94@91.67
High Speed Run: 157mph
WS6 Trans Am

 

Thanks guys! Sorry for sounding like a complete idiot but hey, I'm learning! Anyway, everything seemed to hook up fine last night. Plugged the wires from the base of the distributor into the cap, then plugged the Tach and Bat leads, they seemed to fit the new cap with no problem. I've got a few more items to double check but I hope to try and get her started this weekend.

 

Sorry if I missed in a previous reply, but don't forget to run a vaccum line from the vacuum advance on the distributer to the right port on the carb.

------------------
Z's r Best