What are some of the secrets you guys use to free a stuck bolt. I can't get the distributor hold down bolt to loosen, or even tighten. I've tapped on it, sprayed it with nut-buster and WD-40, used brute force, but to no avail. Can someone help me out?

 

If its REALLY stuck then your gonna have to go to a hardware store,buy a bolt extractor,and a drill bit for that diameter.

Drill into the bolt. Put the extractor into your drill and drill that into the bolt.....It should work it right out of there.

if this doesnt make sence oh well im going to bed

 

Use a torch...don't do any drilling until you're SURE you can't get it out any other way...vice grips with a pipe on them? breaker bar? use as much leverage as you can without stripping threads. Heat it up with the torch, then spray on some wd40, then torque away.

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89 Iroc-Z LB9 305 TPI auto 2.73 posi:
3" Dynomax "cat" back,K&N filters, TB bypass, 3" pipe in place of cat, cleaned and flow-matched injectors, 170' thermo, mild ignition mods, synthetic oil, kicker sound system, soon to have 3.73 posi...

 

ld say use a cheaterbar. Just a piece of pipe big enough to slip over the end of the rachet/wrench. lf using a wrench, you can use another wrench on it it to create a cheaterbar.

One thing l would recommend is to try to TIGHTEN the bolt. Not much say 1/12 of a turn or so, just to get it moving, then loosen it. Sounds crazy, l know, but it works.

Example, l once got turned around under a T/A when l was removing the exhaust flange bolts. So there l was, tightening, and tightening the bolt. Finally, l realized what l was doing wrong. Once l started it loosening, it was the easiest bolt lve ever taken off. This is with a car w/ 154K miles on it, and it appeared they were all w/ this manifold.

Well, good luck

Clayton

 

Thanks for the replies. Today I warmed the engine up, shut it off, and put some ice cubes on the top of the bolt. After I got the bolt cooled down, I sprayed some more WD 40 and started pullin. But...nothing happened. Do you think that a cheaterbar would break the bolt off? That would be a major pain. Since I'm only trying to advance the timing a couple of degrees, do you think it is worth the risk?

 

83,

Since it isn't absolutely necessary that you get the bolt loose right away, excersize some patience. It probably took a few years for the steel bolt to sieze into the aluminum like it has, so give the penetrating oil a little time to do its job.

Drive the car normally, but every time you stop the engine, pop the hood and spray a little more penetrating oil on the bolt area. Eventually, the heat/cool cycles and expansion rates of the materials will allow some penetrant to seep into the entire thread length. After several days of this, you should have better luck getting the bolt loose.

Once you do get it loose, remove it completely and apply some anti-sieze compound to the threads. Work the bolt into and out of the hole a few times to distribute the compound, and you should never have this happen again.

Incidentally, if this is what's happening to your distributor clamp bolt, what do you think the thermostat bolts are like? How about the accessory brackets? Water pump? Exhaust bolts? It's enough to make you want to Nevr-Seez (TM) every bolt you have threaded into aluminum and hot iron heads and blocks, isn't it? I'm sure I would.

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Later,
Vader
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"No matter how hard you try you can't stop us now"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0

 

A air impact gun with a six point socket will probably loosen it because of the torque with vibration factor but dont go full power with it go slow and increase torque if it doesnt give but know when to stop before shearing the head off the bolt.

 

are we forgetting something here? As in, the accessibililty of said bolt underneath the distributor? The tool being used is probably a typical weak-*** distributor wrench! I would suggest building a STRONGER tool with a six point wrench on the end. And then do as Vader has suggested and take your time, although I am not too sure how much good penetrating oil is for steel/aluminum (dissimilar metal) corrosion, as I believe the penetrating oil is mainly good for steel/iron rust.

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'84Z28/'92 305TPI
'92 complete rear suspension/PBR disc/Posi/3:42
Light weight 34.5mm stabilizer bar in front
23mm sta. bar in rear
rear lowered 1" by cutting 1 1/4 coils of '84Z28 springs
comp cam, flowmaster
TB coolantbypass/shutoff valve to heater core
MAT relocated
Ram-Air(home-made) gutted air-box
IROC ground effects/wheels GY245/50's
700R4 superior shift kit/ corvette servo(excellent shift kit btw)

Rebuilt engine and transplanted it myself.

Love this engine!

freshly painted OCT. 2000 Teal with two white stripes on the hood and deck lid

LOW performance people should drive low performance vehicles!

 

Brake fluid serves as decent if not speedy penetrating oil for the Fe/Al situation... don't get in a hurry, you'll trash something. Take your time and let nature run its course.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."

 

I had the Same Problem the First time I went to Adjust the Timing On My car. What I did was Cut the End off a 9/16 wrench, So that it Barely Cleared the Valve Cover when the Box end was over the bolt, I then used a 3lb Sledge to Ease the Bolt Loose, Once it breaks loose, its Cake to get it out

I replaced the bolt with a Shorter one, and was very Liberal with the anti sezie ( insta chrome )

My next step if that didnt work, Was to chop the Dist Off with My sawzall So I could get a better angle


aint Nothing like a BFH !



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60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver

Livin' the Stereotype

 

Most times if a bolt or nut is too tight a wrench will round it off. Air power will work you will have to drill a 3/8 size hole in the distributor look where the bolt is inline with the distributor and then look inside under cap if there is a place to drill a hole close to it. If you can drill a 3/8 hole and then slide a 3/8 extension through the hole from the top down onto a socket maybe a universal type if you need it. If you dont have a 3/8 impact gun you just use a 1/2 adaptor and use a 1/2 gun. Then just use a two part putty like miracle weld to fill the hole. Ive heard people doing this and it works.

 

you might also want to try some white vinegar.. ive had good luck with it what with it being a pretty weak acid its worked some wonders for me

I agree that you probably arent getting enough torque to it youll need a breaker bar

 

I saw this trick a while ago on a tv program. take the object with the bolt firmly in place and heat it up, after it is not red hot put some wax onto the hot surface. the close surfaces are supposed to wick the liquid wax, then the wax serves as a lubricant. I have never tried this, so i don't know how it works. But All that matters is that I saw it somewhere.

 

Well, I think Vader is right...its just going to take some time. I'm going to try the various methods suggested, and hopefully I won't have to bring in the sledgehammer. I was able to get a 9/16 box wrench on it, but it was still stuck. Thanks again for the replies...this site is awesome.
Adam