After reinstalling my intake manifold and tpi, I'm sure I have NO vacuum leaks and the dist is in correctly. The car cranks and starts and immediately dies. It can be revved if I'm quick about it but will die within a few seconds regardless. I'm absolutely stumped. The fuel pump was whining with anything less than 5 or 6 gallons in the tank before the ROC was parked...it's been sitting in below freezing weather for 3 weeks now and that's the only thing I can think of that might have caused something unrelated to the intake job to go bad. At least the battery is very good. How do I do foolproof checks for fuel and spark? I can think of no reason why I don't have both but unless I do soon I've got myself a 3400lb boat anchor. Thanks as always for any help.

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89 Iroc-Z LB9 305 TPI auto 2.73 posi:
3" Dynomax "cat" back,K&N filters, TB bypass, 3" pipe in place of cat, cleaned and flow-matched injectors, 180' thermo, mild ignition mods, synthetic oil, kicker sound system, soon to attempt engine swap...

 

You can check for spark using a screwdriver. There is a wire that runs from the top center of your distributor to the coil. Undo it at the coil and stick the metal end of the screwdriver in the wire. Hold the metal part close to the coil connector and have someone crank the engine. You can check the spark plugs the same way but be careful. Don't shock yourself. I don't really know a whole lot about TPI, but to check for fuel, you could use a fuel pressure gauge. I doubt you can look at the injector spray pattern like on TBI. One last thing you can do, is check the connections to all of your sensors. Make sure they are rust free and not corroded.

 

Ok I might try that but it doesn't sound too safe especially in my current mood. I'm almost thinking frozen fuel or something off the wall at this point. Tomorrow or later tonight I'll check fuses and fire up the propane heater in the garage for a few hours. My hunch is it's fuel related...when the car starts and dies the pump keeps making noise even after I remove the key. Hmmm....

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89 Iroc-Z LB9 305 TPI auto 2.73 posi:
3" Dynomax "cat" back,K&N filters, TB bypass, 3" pipe in place of cat, cleaned and flow-matched injectors, 180' thermo, mild ignition mods, synthetic oil, kicker sound system, soon to attempt engine swap...

 

U ROCK,

If you have a fuel pressure gauge, you can monitor fuel pressure when the engine starts. If pressure drops rapidly, there may be a problem with the pump, filter, or icing somewhere between the pump and regulator. Since the temps are peaking in the 20°F range, frozen fuel shouldn't be a real problem.

The screwdriver method for checking spark is relatively safe, provided you don't become part of the circuit.

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Later,
Vader
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"No matter how hard you try you can't stop us now"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0

 

Well here's the order of events for the day:

1. reinstall dist so the timing is dead on
2. check all fuses
3. check for spark
4. check for fuel
5. if it doesn't start grab gas can and lighter....

Thanks again for all the help guys.

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89 Iroc-Z LB9 305 TPI auto 2.73 posi:
3" Dynomax "cat" back,K&N filters, TB bypass, 3" pipe in place of cat, cleaned and flow-matched injectors, 180' thermo, mild ignition mods, synthetic oil, kicker sound system, soon to attempt engine swap...

 

Any updates?

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Later,
Vader
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"No matter how hard you try you can't stop us now"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0

 

Well I've repositioned the dist so it is at most one tooth off - not enough to cause a no-start. Working with my shop manual, I've checked fuel pressure which is between 45 and 48 psi when I turn the key. The fuses are all good. My dad insists that the coil is working since when I cranked it, it started and died instead of not starting. I haven't actually checked with the screwdriver trick yet though. I pulled the #1 and #3 plugs and they are very carbon fouled, however the car ran great before it was parked so I don't see how they could've fouled more just sitting there. I haven't attempted to restart the car yet after all this, because I broke yet another vacuum connection - the plunger shaped plastic piece that has one hose to the firewall, one to the plenum, and one all the way over to the front driver's side corner of the engine. I hope somewhere is open today to buy another one. Thanks for any and all help.

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89 Iroc-Z LB9 305 TPI auto 2.73 posi:
3" Dynomax "cat" back,K&N filters, TB bypass, 3" pipe in place of cat, cleaned and flow-matched injectors, 180' thermo, mild ignition mods, synthetic oil, kicker sound system, soon to attempt engine swap...

 

Well I'm gonna replace all the plugs tomorrow and try again. Does anyone have any suggestions about further troubleshooting??

btt

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89 Iroc-Z LB9 305 TPI auto 2.73 posi:
3" Dynomax "cat" back,K&N filters, TB bypass, 3" pipe in place of cat, cleaned and flow-matched injectors, 180' thermo, mild ignition mods, synthetic oil, kicker sound system, soon to attempt engine swap...

 

Well I know You Said You had No Vaccum Leaks, but It sound like a Big vaccum Leak to me!

When I Put My most recent carb on ( ha ) I had a Bad leak from a Vaccum Port i had Failed to plug. The car would start, rev a little, and Die. Same exact Symptoms you descrbe. It drove me to Distraction Untill My friend walks In and Says "dude, You have a massive vaccum leak over here..."

But hey, thats what friends are For!

Put a Gauge on it and see how Much Vaccum You Pull, And Double and triple check for leaks!

As far as timing is concerned, I wouldnt worry about that to much, if it will Fire, then it should Run, perhaps Not well, But Run all the Same.

Dosent Vaccum Suck ?

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60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver

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