I haven't verified where exactly the oil is going but i have to find out before I bolt the supercharger on later this month. Any ideas?

My car has 100,000 well maintained miles. hell, I still have the stock clutch in there!

It doesnt smoke at all. Never has.

------------------
91 Formula
305 TPI 5speed
1LE/G92/WS6
Custom cold air intake w/K&N, SLP airfoil, ported & polished plenum, TB coolant bypass,Crane AFPR (47psi),94 octane,Crane Extruded Alum. 1.6 full roller rockers, Timing set from 4*BTDC to 10*BTDC,MSD coil,MSD6AL, Holley 9mm Annihilator Laser shot 50 wires, Ac Delco cap,rotor and plugs, Bosch O2sensor, SLP 1 5/8 headers,SLP catback,3:73s,JET 195* fan switch, Macewen white face gauges, Autometer gauges, Zoom hi-performance clutch.
Street legal with stock throttle body, runners,intake manifold,cam, and heads. Coming next..9# Procharger!

[This message has been edited by theformula (edited January 01, 2001).]

 

My money is on the valve seals. Popular problem on small block chevys.
They're easy to change in the car unless you want to go over the heads anyway.

------------------
86 Camaro Sport
383 Speed-O-Motive Crate Engine, Trick Flow Heads, 58mm Accel TB, 3.73 Auburn Pro, SLP Cold Air Induction and Headers, Dynomax Cat-back, Serpentine belt setup, Dual IROC Fans, Jamex Springs.

http://www.sethirdgen.org/octride.htm

 

I was thinking it might be my Valve seals..but the car doesn't smoke.

So it can't be that. Any other suggestions?

 

Leaks? Check your driveway
Also check the undercarrage of the car, some leaks don't drip they get slung all over the bottom of the car.

------------------
86 Camaro Sport
383 Speed-O-Motive Crate Engine, Trick Flow Heads, 58mm Accel TB, 3.73 Auburn Pro, SLP Cold Air Induction and Headers, Dynomax Cat-back, Serpentine belt setup, Dual IROC Fans, Jamex Springs.

http://www.sethirdgen.org/octride.htm

 

lol about the driveway. I park in a carpeted garage and have noticed it RECENTLY started leaking a little. But it's hard to tell if it's Dexron II or motor oil because the carpet masks the color.


Even before it leaked, it still burnt a quart of oil every 1000miles. I am puzzled.

 

TF,

There are a few common paths for oil loss. Oil rings, valve guides, external leaks, and the PCV system.

The oil rings are easy to check for wear - once you get the engine removed and fully disassembled.

The valve guides are a little easier. You can remove a rocker cover, rockers, valve springs, and test the side clearance of the valve stems with a dial indicator. Not a lot of heavy disassembly or special tools. As long as the springs are off, you can install new Teflon stem seals to minimize any oil loss through this route.

The PCV is also easy to check. If there is a lot of liquid oil in the valve and/or hose, the engine may be suffering from excessive crankcase pressure from blowby and oil loss through the PCV. If you have aftermarket rocker covers without the necessary baffles in the PCV area, you can draw oil from the engine in that manner.

External leaks can account for more oil than you might suspect. That tiny spot/puddle under the car accumulates when the engine is not running. A system under pressure, moving down the road can lose a lot more oil without making any puddles. That explains that nice dark stripe down the center of most lanes on the highways.

And, except for the external leak theory, all the other means listed will usually be accompanied by smoke, since the oil would be burned in the combustion process. If your engine is not smoking, start looking for those leaks.

------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"No matter how hard you try you can't stop us now"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0

 

ALOT of oil can get through the valve guides and not be noticed as smoke. It's a constant, ongoing thin: a couple of molecules here, a few more there, pretty soon you're into the quarts. If you don't see quarts on your rug then it's going out the exhaust whether you like the idea or not.

I'd suggest trying the valve guide seal thing, since it's real cheap and only takes a couple of hours. I'd give 80% odds that they will make a big difference. IMHO anything up to a quart in 1500-2000 miles (1 qt between changes) is normal for a correctly functioning SBC.

------------------
"So many Mustangs, so little time..."

 

I have about the same thing happening to me. Just changed the oil about 2000miles ago I pop the hood open yesterday just for the hell of it and the oil is at the add mark. I do have smoke on startup so i guess my valve seals are the cause of it.

Good luck with finding the cause.

 

I Consider Leaking Valve Seals A Feature, Extremely useful For Pissing Off people in parking lots who are Generally Too uptight To begin With




------------------
60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver

Livin' the Stereotype

 

If the motor's burning the oil at that rate the plugs whoud show it. My 400 in my Malibu was literally a jukyard motr that I cleaned up and threw a new set of pistons and rings into. The rings never relly sealed up and it would drink a quart about that often.

Also, valve guide seals on stock GM motors aren't really "seals" at all (until later models), They're just an o-ring between the ratainer and valve stem and a steel "shedder" (a big umprella under the retainer at the top of the spring) that keeps oil from easily splashing up on the valve stem while running. The o-rings harden and start to leak oil past after many years/miles and that could be your problem. But once valve guides themselves start to go bad NO seal will really keep the oil from going down the intake valve stem, in my expereince.