Alright, I was minding my own business at a traffic light and the RPM's started to drop, when I pushed on the gas slightly, they dropped even lower and the car died. In trying o start it again, I found that the only way to do so was to put my foot all the way to the floor and crank it for a while. This is ususlly how you have to start a car when it is flooded, hmmmm. Well, I finally got it started and drove for awhile and it did the exactsame thing. I thought that I might have been out of gas (even though the gauge read 1/4 tank), so I stopped and filled up. This did not fix the problem. When I got home I took off the air cleaner to check things out and when I disconnected the vacuum line to the front of the carb, the RPMs jumped up and it seemed to be running fine. If I plugged the whole with my finger, they dropped back down to where they were when it was ready to dieand when I pulled on the throttle to pick it back up, it bogged and then came up, just like it did at the stop light. So, I gave up to come in side and ask for some help, when I shut off the car, gasoline started spilling out of the passanger side of the carb onto the itake under the choke. Sorry this was so long, but please help, any response is appreciated.

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'86 IROC-Z, 305 LG-4, T-5, T-Tops, 50k Original Miles, K&N Air Filter, Jet chip, KYB Shocks/Struts, Centerforce Dual Friction, B&M Ripper Shifter

 

Sounds like the float might be stuck.



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ASE Mechanic/Machinist/Smog Tech

1999 NBM Trans Am
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton pick up
1981 corvette
1995 Kawi ZX6R

GO #3

 

I just replaced the fuel filter 2 days ago if that makes any difference, it is possible I could have screwwed something up, but I dont think so. I an going to go out and grab a can of carb cleaner and see if that helps any. I also put this on the carb board to see if I get some help from the carb gods.

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'86 IROC-Z, 305 LG-4, T-5, T-Tops, 50k Original Miles, K&N Air Filter, Jet chip, KYB Shocks/Struts, Centerforce Dual Friction, B&M Ripper Shifter

 

Sarge,

EB is probably right on. It the "tap" test doesn't unstick the float, you'll be pulling the top/bowl to clean it out. A new fuel filter installation could have dislodged a piece of debris or thread sealing tape and allowed it to stick in the inlet needle valve.

What carb are you running? If the carb is a Holley, take it apart piece by piece, and throw away two unassociated parts every week until the majority of it is gone. You have nowe done the universe a favor, since no one will have enough pieces to reassemble it.

IF you have the original Rochester E4ME, check the diagram for the inlet valve (item 55) location:



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Later,
Vader
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"I cannot take this any more... Saying everything that I've said before..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0

[This message has been edited by Vader (edited January 06, 2001).]

 

Well I did a little more than tap it, and I sprayed enough carb cleaner in there to unconstipate the damn thing, but to no avail. I guess, I will be spending my day off with my hands in the q-jet. Thanks guys.

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'86 IROC-Z, 305 LG-4, T-5, T-Tops, 50k Original Miles, K&N Air Filter, Jet chip, KYB Shocks/Struts, Centerforce Dual Friction, B&M Ripper Shifter

 

Well, I was taking it to a friends shop for assistance and what ever was stuck either got eaten up by the carb cleaner, or just worked it self out, everything is a-ok. Thanks for the replies.

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'86 IROC-Z, 305 LG-4, T-5, T-Tops, 50k Original Miles, K&N Air Filter, Jet chip, KYB Shocks/Struts, Centerforce Dual Friction, B&M Ripper Shifter