ok my camaro's not running to great lately. here are the probs.

Hell of a long start (cranks forever)i believe its the FPR
oil pan leaks from the rear
intake manifold leaks water from the front pasanger side, oil from the 3rd bolt back on that side. vacume leak somewhere

now i had in mind to pull the intake compleatly (leave the heads alone) then raise the engine a lil to pull the oilpan to fix the gasket. not the engine has 121k on it and still runs well.

now my questions are, what else should i do while i am in there. it has a new egr, puckup coil, ignition moduel (by PU coil )
and misc sensors. i was thinking since i have the y-pipe down headers? oilpump? starter? portmatch the intake to the heads?

also can the valvesprings and seals be changed with the heads on the car? if i pull the heads, i mineaswell send them out to have a full valve job (300+bolts and gasket 400 bucks that i dont have, )


well thanks, any advice wil be verry apriciated.

-Stell

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1988 IROC 305TPI MINT!!
Mods= Accell SuperCoil, MSD 6A, Ported Plenum, No MAF Screans , K & N, 160 Thermostat+ Temp Switch, Relocated MAT, Cold Air

[This message has been edited by Stell1579 (edited January 07, 2001).]

 

If you feel comfortable about porting, I would work on the plenum and runners. Port match the runners and smooth out the plenum. Then work on the intake base, porting where the runners match up. When you buy aftermarket TPI setups, that is what they do, in addition to larger size runners. Doing it yourself would definately fit your budget. I have read where that kind of porting gets you about 15 hp. You can do the valve seals yourself, but I hear you need a air compressor and a fitting that fits in place of your spark plug. You fill the cylinder with air(to prevent the valve from dropping), then you remove the valve spring and then you can get to the seal. Good luck with your project.

 

121k miles, time for a timing chain.

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Rob
'86 TA 305 TPI

 

Stell,

Let's see...

You're going to pull the intake on a TPI (not a ten-minute task by any means), remove the exhaust, and raise the engine a little to get the pan off.

Keep in mind you'll have to drain the cooling system to remove the intake, and should drain it after the initial run-in to remove any debris you might loosen.

If you want to replace the valve seals and springs, for about another 17 bolts on either side of the engine and you can lift the heads off. This will make the task of installing new springs and seals a lot easier. It will also allow you to remove and clean the deposits from the backs of the valves, clean and polish the chambers, and polish the exhaust ports. You could even get a little more ambitious with your grinder and clean up the head ports before you match the intake ports to the opening size.

Once the heads are off, you can decarbon the piston tops as well, and take a few measurements in the bores to check wear. If the bores look good and the bottom end is tight, you'll have a little peace of mind for a few more miles.

You're probably looking at another couple of days worth of work and $40.00 for gaskets, but you're SO close it only makes sense to get a good look at the cylinders, piston tops, and heads.

Just my 2¢.

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Later,
Vader
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"I cannot take this any more... Saying everything that I've said before..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0

 

hey thanks guys,

R.O.B. nod i know, i got the car with 102k and the chain rattled like all hell, i changed it around 114k or so. but putting the cover back i disturbed the oil pan (started leaking shortly after) my dads 88 TA is at 97k and its chain is starting to rattle so i see these are only good for about 95k

Vader. nod i have a week or 2 where i dont need the car, so i am prety prepared time wise. i am not gonna do anythign till it starts getting warmer. i am just aquiring parts/money/gameplan of things to do.

the main reason of not pulling the heads is the price really. and i donot feel to confident in doing the seals and springs myself anyway, if i send them out its a little more pricy than i want (valvejob heads or get headers?) i dont get anystrong gas fuems at startup, plugs are always clean, and no pufs of blue smoke at startup.
(just takes foreve to crank witch i believe is a leaky injector or my FPR)
so i believe the seals and guides are good. my main fear is messing up the guides. now i donot know exactly how to do the work to the heads. I am going to look into it being i got some time and then decide when i am at that point. the intake and oilpan is pretty straight forward and seems ez (time consuming and requires being paicent (sp))

well, thanks for the advice

-Stell

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1988 IROC 305TPI MINT!!
Mods= Accell SuperCoil, MSD 6A, Ported Plenum, No MAF Screans , K & N, 160 Thermostat+ Temp Switch, Relocated MAT, Cold Air