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Old Jan 6, 2001 | 09:56 AM
  #1  
mycarsucks's Avatar
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Test drive tips

Ok, I finally get to test drive my dream car. It's a 91 z28 305 auto (ok, 350 would be optimal) custom paint, and one of those beautiful spoilers. I want to make sure that I am checking EVERYTHING on this car because I dont want to get hosed. Here's what I have so far

1. hard brake (straight or not)
2. soft brake (steering wheel movement)
3. compression
4. oil (Fluids in general)
5. magnet for bondo
6. T-top seals
7. Tanny (Hard shifts)
8. Rpo codes
9. Exhaust
10. Body shop estimate (there is a dent on fender)
11. Proof 305 vs 350 (he thinks it's a 350 vin f)
12. Carfax report
13. Audio system test
14. Lights
15. Seat positioning
16. Back seats
17. belts

So, what am I missing I am sure its something big.
Thanks
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Old Jan 6, 2001 | 10:15 AM
  #2  
MikeC.86Roc's Avatar
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From: Central Wisconsin
Can you bring a floorjack and get under it? Bring some jackstands too of course so it's supported. Check the framerails while under there for welds or fabricating. Check the trans for leaks. Check for limited slip rear while both rear wheels in the air to see if the spin in same direction. Check oil pan for dents.. (could translate to a pickup knocked off the oil pump if the dent is significant) I am sure these guys will think of some more... Alost forgot one of the single most important things, OIL PRESSURE. Make sure you drive it long enough to warm up real good too, oil pressure can disappear when a tired motor gets hot!

------------------
Mike C
88 Iroc 5spd
355 TPI, AFR 190s and lotsa other mods
86 Iroc in pieces!

[This message has been edited by MikeC.86Roc (edited January 06, 2001).]
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Old Jan 6, 2001 | 10:19 AM
  #3  
84TransAm's Avatar
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From: Richmond, VA
Also, get the cooling system pressure checked, make sure the water pump is good, and ask him about any problems he/she may have had with it in the past. Wish i had done that.......

------------------
--Steve S-- 84 Trans Am 305 (cough)LG4(cough), 5 speed, Flowmaster 80 series, otherwise an emissions restricted slow 150 hp(chilton rating) 240 torquer that needs RELEASE!!!!

P.S. Daily Driver
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Old Jan 6, 2001 | 07:22 PM
  #4  
89IROCZ
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********** R U S T **********
Make sure that the underside isn't completely rusted out, and that the body and frame aren't either. People tend to think that when they sell a car, that they can go somewhere and have them throw a fresh coat of paint on it and call it new. New paint doesnt help in the slightest bit if it is sitting over corroded metal area.

Make sure that it shifts nice and tight (700R4 rebuilds are no fun and arent cheap).
They are plenty of other important things to check for, but those are two things that stick out in my mind as important when it comes to buying a thirdgen.

------------------
1989 IROC-Z
350c.i. TPI
rebuilt 700R4 with shift kit
3'' Monza Pacesetter cat back exhaust (minus the muffler)[SOUNDS OF THIS ON MY WEBPAGE]
new dual cats
3.23 Posi rear
hypertech chip
under drive pulleys
adjustable fuel pressure regulator
K&N Air Filters
Excalibur alarm, keyless entry and remote start
new:
struts, shocks, bearings, distributor, cap, rotor, alternator, battery, regulator
245 ZR16 50 Tires, Rotors and brake pads all the way around

Go to my webpage to find out more about it.
You can also see pictures, and hear sounds as well.
http://go.to/iroc-z

AOL IMer: JRShotliff
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Old Jan 6, 2001 | 11:35 PM
  #5  
Gta-Paladin's Avatar
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From: Esquimalt BC
If you can, get an engine compression Test.. I did that with my baby cost me bout 40 bux but was well worth it, then i was sure that i had a great engine to go with the near perfect body
You're not driving the car you're driving the engine and if it's jacked whats the rest worth?"
you might aswell just go get a 4 banger
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Old Jan 6, 2001 | 11:42 PM
  #6  
Hobie's Avatar
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From: Wenatchee, WA, US
Check for leaks around the intake manifold. The aluminum intakes on these cars start to leak because of the different metals. I had anti-freeze leaking from mine at the rear of the manifold. It had to be pulled and re-sealed.


------------------
Mark,
1992 WS6 Trans Am,305 TPI
Wenatchee, WA

[This message has been edited by Hobie (edited January 06, 2001).]
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Old Jan 6, 2001 | 11:58 PM
  #7  
88305tpiT/A's Avatar
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From: Ft Worth, TX USA
Car: 2016 Ram 1500
Engine: 3.0L Diesel
Transmission: 8sp
The VIN f code is for the LB9 305.
if you really want the 350 make sure the engine code in that vin position says 8.

if I had one thing to do over with buying my 3rd gen I wouldve gotten a 350.
there is no worse felling than looking through a summit catalogue and realising that there is less than a page full of stuff that will work with a 305 and that basically 50% of the damn catalogue is 350 parts (tpi or not the aftmkt is pretty devoted to the 350).
just food for thought.

[This message has been edited by 88305tpiT/A (edited January 06, 2001).]
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Old Jan 7, 2001 | 09:51 AM
  #8  
Vader's Avatar
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MyCar,

Take a paper clip and scan for error codes (make sure the MIL lamp works).

Check the perimeter fit of the doors/windows, hatch cover, and hood for proper alignment.

Test all HVAC functions, wipers, hatch release and pull down motor, nitrogen springs on both hood and hatch, and make sure the door key works for the doors, cargo well compartment, and 'T' top locks.

------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"I cannot take this any more... Saying everything that I've said before..."
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