Well, I've made my descision. I'm gonna do a 427...and here it goes.

427cid
All forged internals
10.0:1 compression
Edelbrock 750cfm (or 700)
Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap
L31 Vortec heads (worked over to handle the lift and such)
Comp Cams XE294H
Hedman Tork-Step headers
2400 stall
TH350 (or 400)
GM 8.5" 10-bolt w/ 3.73's

Sound like a good build-up?

Constructive critisizm welcome

-Josh

 

I guess no one likes my build-up.

That or, everyone likes it and thinks I shouldn't change it.

 

1. It's extremely unlikely that you'll get a std bore 400 for this. Most likely it'll end up .030" over, which will make it a 434.

2. 750 CFM would be the minimum I'd go. I'd put a good carb on it like a Holley or maybe a Demon, rather than a Carter. But that's just personal preference, based on which ones win races. Others may choose to lose and that's entirely their right to do so.

3. Use the biggest headers you can jam on it. You're not building a 305 where you need to carefully hoard every inch-pound of torque. You're talking about a motor that will eb choked with anything but the biggest available small-block induction parts.

4. If you're going to go to all that trouble to graunch a different rear into the car, use something decent instead of that weak 10-bolt (although it is stronger than the 7½" one). I'd suggest a 12-bolt instead.

5. More stall.

 

It looks like a good plan except I would use an 850DP, single plane intake, and Hooker long tubes.

 

See, this is good

I was wondering about the amount of CFM's to go with and I was also wondering if the tork-step headers were the right choice.

The motor is in GREAT shape and doesn't need boring, so I will get my 427

As far as the rear end goes....I don't have $1000's of dollars to spend on a moser or anything of the sort, so I'm HOPING the 8.5" will hold up.

How much more stall? (Comp Cams recomends a 3300, but I don't wanna go that high)

 

Considering that the 8½" isn't a bolt-in and will require a certain amount of fab work, I'd pass on it, and save my effort and money.

2800-3000 minimum, based on the cam.

 

Are 4th gen 10-bolts any stronger than 3rd gen ones? If they are...I can get one of those for $50.

2800 stall, noted and appreciated.

 

Not really, at least, not compared to the 90-up ones. They're stronger than the 88-back ones. They seem to hold up somewhat in the LS1 cars well down into the 12s. Far from bulletproof though, even behind a stock 305.

I tore up a 8½" 10-bolt in my 79 4-speed Z28 which pretty much had no gonads. I don't consider them as sufficiently better than the 7½" 10-bolt to justify going to all the trouble of trying to jam one in. Too much maze with too little cheese at the end.

 

What hood are you using? I'd reccomend a single plain. Gotta make sure that this big boy can breathe.

 

Victor JR. sound good for a single plane?

Prolly going to go with the smallest cowl hood i can get away with.

 

My 8.2" has held up fine since 1997, full racing seasons every year except 2000 (tranny needed rebuild).

But, as stated 8.5" would require extensive fabrication to install. Be smart and get a Moser 12-bolt. You don't have enough money to do anything else.

 

heads.


thoes are good budget heads... and thats why the get the hype..for the price, they're great.




but this is a much bigger motor. a 427... you will have 383s and 400s walking all over your stroked motor... you need to flow more air..

id either spend my money on a stock 400 and get better heads, or keep it stroked and get some better heads...

 

don't forget to tell him he might need a different block, like a little M for a 434. or a shaved crank shaft to clearance the cam. a 4th gen rear has longer axles so I don't think it's going to be stronger than a later year 3rd gen rear, but they can hold up well into the 11s with an automatic. if you were doing a manual go with something stronger

 

I see lots of companies selling 434 rotating assemblies for the 400 small block.

 

And if you don't bore it over, it's a 427, right?

 

correct, but the kit would include 4.155 pistons (.030 over) so you would need to check with the company and see if you can get the kit with a stock diameter piston (4.125)

its usually not a problem, because .030 pistons cost the same as stock pistons. (usually)

as for heads, those vortecs are going to choke any top end power you hope to have. I run vortecs on my 350 and love them, but on a 427, you need bigger heads.

pro topline has some decently cheap 200cc heads, might want to look into those. if you want to stay with the vortec theme, you could run fast burns (200cc). but the extra cubes need extra fuel and air, and to get more fuel and air, get bigger volume heads.

same goes for the headers, RB is 100% right, use the largest diameter primary header you can 1 3/4" minimum.

as stated, a single plane will help power a lot, assuming you go with bigger heads.


cause right now, your motor sounds like one big truck engine, gobs of low end torque, and nothing much else.

after tossing the #'s into desktop dyno, everything stated above will give you 80 more horsepower and 20 more ft. lbs torque using a set of pro topline 200's as a reference.

 

If it was me personally, I would got with a 12 bolt rear (save money and time, based on what they said) and I would just bore the block out, because then it would be fresh, and you would be a little bit happier with more cubes.

 

Nononono, 427cid is what I'm aiming for!

Now, about the rear end situation...would a ford 9" work? And would it be worth the trouble?

Pro Topline heads huh...how much do they run $ wise? Really think they'd be worth the $? OR should I get a set of WP Sportsman II's?

And headers....hmmmm....Hooker Super Comps sound like a plan?


Thanks again to everyone who has responded so far! :rockon:

 

Moser Engineering and Currie Enterprises both sell Ford 9" rears that will bolt right into our cars. The run a little over 2 grand.

 

Ouch.

I was saying that I could find an actual ford rear and modify it to work in my car. Have I been misled? Is their no factory ford 9" out there that will hold like an aftermarket one will?

 

ttt

 

The aftermarket ford 9" are just 9" cores that have had brackets welded to them for suspension and brakes and the axle length has been addressed. No, a DYI person can't really do this. It requires a jig and equipment...basicly if you're asking us if it can be done, you cant do it. No factory FORD 9" will fit in our GM cars.

 

i disagree partway..... it can be done at home.


i do agree with this:




its alot of work... you have to get the axle tube lengths correct. you have to weld the ends on square. you have to weld the proper brackets on in the correct place.. and you have to machine some form of bracket for the TQ arm to mount to.

 

Sure, if your "home" happens to have a built-in tig/mig and machining tools, go for it.

 

Looks like I'm gonna have to just save for the moser, and be REALLY easy on the old 10-bolt in the mean time after the motor is done.

Well, once again...thanks for all your input guys.

 

I think that you should definately revisit your cylinder head decision. How big are the runners on vortecs? 170cc? That's on the small side for a 383 let alone a 427. You could probably make gobs more top end power with a 220+cc intake runner (matched to a single plain).

 

Yeah, the origional post was just an idea, and I was looking for changes

I've been looking at the WP Sportsman II's and a Edelbrock Victor Jr. for induction...think that'll be sufficent?

 

i would recomend the victor jr/ weiand team g for intake... and pro action/ dart iron eagles 220cc's they run around $700-800 new on ebay (assem) and i think around $900 from summit/jegs as for the stall you do know that the pontiac GTP grand prix has a 3000 rpm stall from the factory right? so i would recomend that as a bare minimum
now for the rear end in GMHTP they have a couple cars actually running high 10's with stock rear end, but EVERYONE running faster than 12's is just waiting for em to break, i know a guy running an 8.2" in his 3600lb 67 chevelle and he's launching on 175 shot of nos, broke the tranny case, but not the rear end.. he did beef up the housing a little though, and another friend is running his 3200lb 70 nova with a 427 bbc, and 250 shot, runs 11.3's on a stock 8.5" with an eaton posi... so long story short if you can get the 4th gen rear for $50 do it, because my understanding is it will bolt right in, but at same time start saving for a 12 bolt or 9 inch, your 8.5" should hold up fine, but if your gonna spen that much time/money getting it in there why not spend a tiny bit more and get the 9 inch