alright... i was having problems starting up my car for a few days because i didnt know what was wrong with it. the iac valve was bad and it had to be replaced. then my plugs went foul because i was running rich and ruined my plugs, so i replaced them and i was able to get my car running - kinda. it would only run when i keep my foot on the gas. then i got a ses light and checked the code: 42.

42. Fault at electronic spark timing circuit OR
Fault at direct ignition system OR
Fault at fuel cutoff relay circuit

wtf does this mean, and how do i fix it? thanks guys

 

if it is the EST circuit (sounds right if i remember...been a while), then it is probably your knock sensor.

i would clear the code, and see if it comes back before you do anything. with the plug problems you were having, it may have caused some misfires that led to some knock readings.

-brian

 

i think i got the code because i left the timing wire disconnected... still doesnt start up though unless i give it gas... then it wont idle, but it'll stay alive as long as i've got my foot pressed on the gas. it misfires really bad too. any suggestions?

 

Check for vacuum leaks, adequate fuel pressure, correct PCV valve, TPS voltage, throttle minimum air position, CTS connection and signal. I'm presuming your '90 has a MAP sensor, which could be reacting to a low vacuum condition.

 

if it's the vaccum, how would i fix it? thats what i've been thinking it was for a while but i wasn't sure. i noticed that the vaccum hose that goes from the intake to the map sensor blew off the intake once... like a really hard shot of air or something blew off from the intake side of the hose and blew the hose off. weird right?

 

That can't be good. Are you getting any noticable backfires?

 

lol yeah. i can start the car ONLY if i give it gas. the moment i let off the gas, it'll die. while i have my foot on the gas, the car misfires like a mother *****. when i put it in drive (after a few attempts because it will die on me) and try to drive it, it'll move like crap and wont push anymore if i go WOT. put new plugs in... thats how i got the car to start. dunno what to do i heard a tickign noise comming from my engine but im assuming thats my fuel injectors because thats where the sound seems to be comming from. i'd check the timing with a timing light but the car doesnt idle at all, like i said, unless i give it gas, but that still isnt idle. i replaced most of the sensors and it didnt do anything for me. changed the map and the dist. module... didn't do crap. if you have any suggestions, please, let me know, before i decide to roll the car into a lake, i've busted my *** for 4 days trying to figure out why it just died on me. i was driving to discount auto and it just died when i was pulling up to the parking space. no sign of it comming before hand what so ever. thanks vader

 

You will get a code 42 when you diconnect the black and tan wire. Your problem sounds like a fuel pressure problem or injector problem. I'de do like Vader said and check and see what your fuel pressure is at . Then ohm test the injectors resistance. Although that won't tell you if you're problem is a clogged injector or injectors.

 

You said that you changed most of the sensors, did you change the knock sensor? I was getting a code 42 also, and the tech that looked at the car said that it was probably the pcm. At the same time i was getting a code 43 which is the knock sensor and he was thinking that they were two different problems. At that time he checked the knock sensor and connector and said they both looked good, so he cleaned the knock sensor and spread the pin on the connector and told me to drive it for a few days and see if i started having problems again. I drove it and a couple of days later it started acting up again, so yesterday i went and bought a new knock sensor and put it in the car and it solved all of the problems i was having.

 

the ticking noise isnt constant... only happens when im giving it gas, and it's sperattic. i tried to drive the car like that, and whenever i was pressing the breakes, it would work normal unless i was comming to a complete stop, then they would get hard on me. and the car only moves like at 10 mph, no more than that... even if i have my foot on the gas. it just wont accelerate anymore than that still misfires like a mother

 

You mentioned that you replaced the IAC. When you installed the replacement, did you manually fully retract the pintle into the IAC housing? If not, you may have damaged your new IAC.

Also, how did you diagnose the failed IAC? Did you jumper the ALDL and allow the pintle to fully extend? Did it?

Did you thoroughly clean the throttle body when the IAC was replaced?

Just checking...

 

i replaced it to see if things would work on the car, and it did. the installation paper said that it should be pushed down all the way... thats how i put it in there. please dont tell me i f*ked up, lol

 

Did you PUSH the pintle in, or slowly wobble it back and forth while exerting a light pressure on it? If you just pushed it in, it's FUBAR.

You should have also cleaned the TB while the IAC was removed.

And before that, you probably should have diagnosed the IAC before removing it. Do you have a DVM and taachometer?

 

tach doesnt work, lol, and i could get a DVM from my neighbor. i was unaware of all the stuff i needed to do for the IAC... replacing the IAC at that moment was our last hope, and when we put it in, it worked perfectly. then it just went back to running like sh*t. the IAC was pushed back all the way when i bought it... and the instructions said that when i install it it should be pushed back all the way... the spring looked like it was pressed as much as it could be.

 

Then you probably have it right. You should still set the minimum air position and check the TPS voltage - even on a '90 or later, since there is a minimum value.

 

i took the car to my mechanic's brother in law since my mechanic is in orlando... he should call me tomorrow to tell me whats wrong. either it's a vaccum problem, distributor problem, or a problem with my fuel injectors. btw, do our distributors have some sort of a vaccum line in it?

 

No vacuum to a stock TPI distributor.