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How do you REALLY change a heater core?

Old Dec 20, 2003 | 04:12 PM
  #1  
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How do you REALLY change a heater core?

Ok, my heater core has a slow leak in it. I say slow because it doesn't even start to leak until the car is very warm.

Nevertheless, It sucks having coolant drip onto your carpet. I've looked in the haynes manual, and it is ridiculous what it says you have to do. Basically, it goes through removing the entire damned dashboard, plus center console, loosening the steering column, and other retardedness.

I have heard of people getting by with just removing the hush panel. How?

This is on a 1991 formula with A/C, btw.
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Old Dec 20, 2003 | 04:47 PM
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From: Ohio
Car: 1985 Iroc-z
Engine: 355 sbc
Transmission: 700r4
do a search here for more in-depth details and how-tos cause this question has been gone over more than a carpet at the white house entrance door...

theres a box, theres like 2 or 3 screws in the bottom, then theres the all "hard" one up top... you have to get that from ether taking the top of your dash-pad out or if u got long arms... its really easy when i did it in my camaro, i cant speak for a birdy...the box comes out and shows the core, from theres theres just two lil bars, unscrew the bolts that hold that in, bam the core is out..

putting it back in is hard...

- like i said, search this board for a more how-to.... this question is popular and you'll get all the info u need to tackle the task at hand...

cheers
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Old Dec 20, 2003 | 05:25 PM
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From: Austin, Tx
Car: 91 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Hawks 8.8
there is a tech article on this.

I personally did it the manuel way b4 I knew about this site, and yes, it was a PITA.
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Old Dec 20, 2003 | 07:28 PM
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From: Mass
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: A4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
I repalced mine in 45 minutes. No lie either. I dropped the lower dash panel and just snaked my arms in there to get to the bolts. The hardest part of the job was getting the kink out of my back after I was done the job. It can be done without removing the entire dash so if your half way into the job and it seems like you have to remvoe the dash and console and stering column and maybe even the windshield, take a break and have a beer cuz you dont have to disassembe the car.
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Old Dec 20, 2003 | 07:56 PM
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From: Pueblo Co
Car: 1989 C4
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 307
Some are a pain, 82-85 are the easyest to do, mine took 20minutes but I has the hoses plugged for the rest of the summer months so when the time came the heater core was dry.

82-85 book time is 1.5, 86-92 is 5.5 hours in the labor guide of course theres add ons but in general that the time it takes. The repair manuals always go a tad overboard so just use them for refrence.
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Old Dec 20, 2003 | 10:47 PM
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From: previously OKINAWA JAPAN,georgia, now new england
Car: 1989 IROC--1989 T/A
Engine: 5.7 TPI in both
Transmission: W/C T-5 in both
Axle/Gears: B/W 3.27 in both
tell ya what.... My IROC was pretty difficult, back in the day. I did my T/A the other day, and to pull it out i did just like the IROC, THE HARD WAY. Now when i put it back in i noticed something. If you pull the small thin piece of trim off of the passenger side dash, (the one to get to the power antennae relay), you can put a long extension, like 12-16 inches, on and go straight in. Dude it is soooooo simple that way to get the top bolt.
good luck, and hope this makes sense
shawn
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Old Dec 21, 2003 | 12:56 AM
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Car: 1989 Firebird Formula
Engine: Internal Combustion
Transmission: Completed
Axle/Gears: ones that turn.
There's some pics in here that might help... http://www.hioutput.com/tech/heatercore.html

Pete
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Old Dec 21, 2003 | 02:58 AM
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looks good. Thanks guys.
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Old Dec 21, 2003 | 07:26 AM
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From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Do a search on my name (JamesC) and you'll find a pic which shows how reach the 'problem' screw. The swap on my 85 IROC was done by simply removing the under-dash panel. I understand that newer models are more difficult, but I have no personal experience.

JamesC
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Old Dec 21, 2003 | 02:02 PM
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Originally posted by SSC
82-85 book time is 1.5, 86-92 is 5.5 hours in the labor guide of course theres add ons but in general that the time it takes. The repair manuals always go a tad overboard so just use them for refrence.
They're on crack. All of them take the same amount of time, about 2 hrs on average depending on things like how stuck the hoses are on the core.
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Old Dec 21, 2003 | 04:23 PM
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From: San Antonio, TX
Car: 86Z/92 RS Camaro
Engine: 357 vortec finished. need tuning
Transmission: Still works
Axle/Gears: need 3.73
Definitely buy a new heater core vice a used one. Try it out or do a pressure check prior to installing the new core. Hate for a leak to happen after all, it is a PITA to install.
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Old Dec 21, 2003 | 04:36 PM
  #12  
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From: Costal Alabama
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350, ZZ4 equivalent
Transmission: Pro-Built Road Race 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Dana 44
I did my in my 89 camaro in an hour or so. Just reached under the dash with extensions and what not to get the top bolts (I have really small hands). I can't remember I believe I have to remove the dash pad too but definitely didn't have to remove the dash.
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Old Dec 21, 2003 | 09:34 PM
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From: B'ville, WV
Car: 2002 Formula Firebird
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4l60e
Axle/Gears: 3.23
I couldn't get the two top bolts...so I just gave it a yank. It came lol. Easy to change now. lol.

I started to follow the manual then i was like JESUS screw that.
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Old Dec 22, 2003 | 01:29 PM
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From: Pueblo Co
Car: 1989 C4
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 307
Originally posted by Morley
They're on crack. All of them take the same amount of time, about 2 hrs on average depending on things like how stuck the hoses are on the core.
Yea Ive noticed that sometimes alos, Ive never changed a heater core on an 86+ so I cant be certain, personally anyway. I would say the 1.5/2 is correct for 82-85.


IMPORTANT

What can really make the job easy is a 6in 1/4 head flex driver. Not the silly joint flex but a full flex driver that can be bent and twised in multiple directions at the same time. I still left the one screw out.
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Old Dec 22, 2003 | 03:29 PM
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From: northern va
Car: 87 iroc
Engine: L98 350
Transmission: 700R4
You know how I took care of the problem screw? After I got all the other ones I pulled really hard. Worked like a charm. Having a cracked hush panel doesn't bother me too much.
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Old Dec 22, 2003 | 07:26 PM
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Like irocnroll89 said.

Remove the panel that is in front of your ECM. Move the ECM over. The "PITA" screw is straight back from the ECM. Use a couple long 1/4" drive extensions and a cordless nut driver. Zip it's out.

Removing dash pad or console etc. is totally unnecessary and a needless waste of time. No need to make a 1 beer job into a 12-pack.
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Old Dec 22, 2003 | 09:45 PM
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From: Hill AFB, Utah
Car: 1988 Trans Am GTA Notchback
Engine: 305ci, 5.0L, TPI, HO
Transmission: Borg Warner T5 5-Speed
Axle/Gears: 9-Bolt Positraction Rear w/3.45 Grs
Originally posted by SSC
Yea Ive noticed that sometimes alos, Ive never changed a heater core on an 86+ so I cant be certain, personally anyway. I would say the 1.5/2 is correct for 82-85.


IMPORTANT

What can really make the job easy is a 6in 1/4 head flex driver. Not the silly joint flex but a full flex driver that can be bent and twised in multiple directions at the same time. I still left the one screw out.
Mine took a couple of hours, but I had problems pulling the heater core out, and I had to clean up the mess. My heater core blew up under the dash and flooded the inside of my car!
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Old Jan 19, 2004 | 01:13 AM
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ok, so I took a stab at it this afternoon. I got to the point where the core (and the plastic bracket on it is dosconnected, but I cannot get the ****er out. I can't seem to get the tubes out of the firewall. I can rotate the core at bit, and move one end a few inches outward, but thats it. I've tried pushing on it from under the hood, and can't get anything.

Suggestions?
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Old Jan 19, 2004 | 01:25 AM
  #19  
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From: out of my mind; be back in 5 minutes....
Car: 1989 Firebird Formula
Engine: Internal Combustion
Transmission: Completed
Axle/Gears: ones that turn.
Gotta pull it straight back. Means you're replacing it anyways, maybe you could hammer it back through from under the hood.
Just make sure the core is the only thing you hit....no winsheilds or fenders

Pete
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Old Jan 19, 2004 | 02:52 AM
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Some of the F bodies (maybe all had it) have rubber grommets to seal the fire wall where the tubes pass through, these may be what is hanging you up. Brute force is about all you can use to free it.
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Old Jan 19, 2004 | 08:54 AM
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Car: 92 caddy PIMP
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yup. I had a friend replace mine and it took quite a bit of time. He had to remove the dash and loosen the wheel and everything...Glad I wasnt doin it Id have lost my mind...

Nate
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Old Jan 19, 2004 | 03:07 PM
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Originally posted by ddn69
yup. I had a friend replace mine and it took quite a bit of time. He had to remove the dash and loosen the wheel and everything...Glad I wasnt doin it Id have lost my mind...

Nate
The way your friend did it was totally unnecessary. That was like taking the engine apart to change the spark plugs
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Old Jan 19, 2004 | 03:26 PM
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From: Moorestown, NJ
Car: 88 Camaro SC
Engine: SFI'd 350
Transmission: TKO 500
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt w/ 3.23's
It took me about 45 minutes to change the core. Well, maybe closer to an hour counting in the time to remove the pass. side seat. Dont bother with the dash... its not necessary jsut for one darn bolt.
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Old Jan 19, 2004 | 03:32 PM
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From: Moorestown, NJ
Car: 88 Camaro SC
Engine: SFI'd 350
Transmission: TKO 500
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt w/ 3.23's
Originally posted by owned
ok, so I took a stab at it this afternoon. I got to the point where the core (and the plastic bracket on it is dosconnected, but I cannot get the ****er out. I can't seem to get the tubes out of the firewall. I can rotate the core at bit, and move one end a few inches outward, but thats it. I've tried pushing on it from under the hood, and can't get anything.

Suggestions?
I ahd the same problem. Just make sure its not hanging on anything important and jsut give it a good pull. Mine was kinda stuck as well. Might also try working around the tubes with a small screw driver to see if you can free them up.
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