Alright, first, my passenger side power mirror moves side to side, but not up and down, the drivers side does though. I can still see fine though, are they supposed to be like this or is the up and down motor broken?

Second, on my winter car my outside handles were broken, now they are rivited, what does this mean exactly? hot bolted in? if so how do I secure the new ones in?

Third, on the same car, fuel pump doesn't always doesn't tun off when I turn the car off, i am assuming its the relay, im assuming its on the fuel tank right outside where the fuel lines come out. How hard is this thing to change?
btw, its an 89 Grand marquis, yeah yeah I know, its a ford, but hey better then having the camaro in the salt

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Flowmaster,Edelbrock open filliment filter with K&N filter in it
160 stat,

 

92,

#1. - The mirror control cables are toast, or the vertical motor is toast;

#2. - The rivets need to be drilled, then punched out. The replacement handle can be bolted in place with fine threaded fasteners and Loc-Tite 262 (permanent), but it is better if they are riveted. Most body shops have the large rivet setter required to install the ¼" rivets, and will probably gladly install them for a cool 12-pack of their favorite beverage and a few bucks.

#3. - The fuel pump runs briefly after the engine is turned off because the pump is powered by both the relay AND the auxilliary oil pressure switch. This switch remains closed whenever the oil pressure is above 7 PSIG. Residual oil pressure in the oil galleries will sometimes hold the switch closed for a few seconds after the engine stops and until the oil has drained. If the engine is fully warmed and the oil is thin, the pressure may drop off more quickly and not hold the switch closed for more than a half-second or less.

In either case, it's perfectly normal. More importantly, it's good that you are in tune to your car enough to notice the subtle differences like that. Most people don't have a clue, so you're already WAY ahead of the game.

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Later,
Vader
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"I cannot take this any more... Saying everything I've said before..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0

[This message has been edited by Vader (edited January 08, 2001).]

 

As for the fuel pump, I'm not sure if I didn't understand you or you didn't understand what I ment to say, the fuel pump stays on after the car is off and the key out of the ignition and it doesn't stop, I mean i've come out to it several mornings and the battery was dead because of it

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Flowmaster,Edelbrock open filliment filter with K&N filter in it
160 stat,

 

92,

O.K. - I read it wrong. In that case, the same circuits are involved, but the problems may be the opposite.

The relay might be sticking closed, or the oil pressure switch might be sticking. The oil pressure switch can be unplugged when the situation occurs to eliminate that possibility. If that doesn't stop the pump, unplug the fuel pump relay. One of those two should stop the pump and clue you as to the problem. The relay is a $10 item at most parts stores. The oil pressure switch can be a little harder to find, but should be available at better parts stores.

Incidentally, there are two oil pressure sensors. The one used to signal the dash gauge is usually mounted next to the oil filter pad on the left side of the engine. The auxilliary switch for the fuel pump circuit is usually mounted to the rear and left of the distributor, on the rear ledge of the block.

I have been told that some engines are just the opposite, but the more common position for the auxilliary switch is at the distributor. If you find the sensor with an orange wire and a tan/white wire, you've found the correct switch for the fuel pump.



If all else fails, or in a pinch, you can remove the fuel pump fuse to save the battery. (This is also a good way to disable the car to prevent theft.)



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Later,
Vader
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"I cannot take this any more... Saying everything I've said before..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0

[This message has been edited by Vader (edited January 08, 2001).]

 

Maybe I read it wrong, but I think questions two and three were on a Ford, not a GM F-Body.. so I'm not sure if that schematic or description would apply.



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89 iroc-z 305 tbi
everything stock, except for a mirror that fell off

 

You are correct Enkill, questions 2 and 3 were about the merc.

Not sure if it helps diagnose the problem at all, but if i start the car and turn it back off a few times, generally the pump will eventually stop. It does not stop however if I just turn the key to the on position and back off, not cranking the motor.
Thought i'd share that, if its of any help

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Flowmaster,Edelbrock open filliment filter with K&N filter in it
160 stat,

 

Sounds like the relay might be sticking closed. You may have high resistance in the contacts in it, causing a bit of heat making them stick together. The F*RD system is a lot like the GM system, but I think it may trigger off ignition pulses instead of oil pressure. Is it a 5.0L in it? I can grab the schematics for it at the shop tomorrow and shed a bit of light on the subject!

Maybe we should have a seperate board for the questions like this that deal with our daily drivers that aren't thirdgen's? I actually enjoy the variety of problems that come from some other makes of vehicles! Should I post this later as a separate topic tp get an idea of what others think?

Well, good luck anyway!

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Working on:
'84 Z28 LG4 305
Added dual elec fans.
145 MPH IROC Speedo
Building 430 HP 350
using primarily GMPP parts.
Block is in shop!

ASE Certified Master Tech

Starting to look like the Kicker poster child!

 

my pass power mirror would not move either up or down or side to side i cant remember, anyways the little pieces behind the mirror that move it (looks kinda like a silver t) were broken

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90 IROC 5.7l (L98)
ram air, K&N's, air foil,Flows

LIKE A ROC