ok...so does anyone know a site that sells resonable 383 kits? i want this to be a good street engine, prolyl wont ever see a drag strip but ill beat on it deacently on the road .....i know this is alot like my other post but yeah....im definatly doing a balanced 383...just need to know where a good kit is, how much. ect ect.

Shloud i go forged? itll never see more than a 150 shot of nitrous. ....like i said...i dont want it to be the best of the best stuff used....just Good stuff. STREET USE daily driver lol.

my goal: to have a running balanced 383 with a 1000 dollar budget. let me rephrase that. The bottom half of the engine done for 1000 bucks. heads come later.....will use the ported 416s for now. later...sportsman 2's.....

383 will remain a non roller engine, roller seems too expensive to convert to. the block number on it matches both a 2 and 4 bolt identification, i dontknow if its 2 or 4 , because its still in the car, only way to know for sure is drop the pan. if it is a 4 bolt...YES ..if not...machine shop......

anyways, lets see what we can come up with for a respectable daily driven 383 thatll put a few cars in their place.

 

Check ebay, there are lots of stores there that have good prices on kits. You can probably find a cast piston kit for less than $600


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=46098
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2449096298&category=46098

 

yeah but will cast pistons be good enough....as well as a cast crank and rods.....

 

I put a link on my last post, a lot of guys are using these parts

 

BRAND NEW SMALL BLOCK CHEVY 383 STROKER KIT

LIGHTWEIGHT PROBE FORGED PISTONS

5140 ULTRA LIGHTWEIGHT FORGED STEEL RODS PRESS PIN

CAT CAST STEEL/ NODULAR IRON 3.75" CRANK EAGLE ESP CAST STEEL CRANK

KING BEARINGS AND HASTINGS RINGS

a kit built to your needs...

NEW CAST Crank 3.75" stroke.Brand new never used not a blem. 2.1" journals 2pc rear main

we are proud to sell these parts with confidence.

SET OF (8) 5140 light I beam rods 5.7" length, 2.1 ROD JOURNAL .927 PIN press pin design
For pistons we are suppling ONE SET OF (8)Probe forged racing pistons, flat top 11.0:1 with 64cc head availble in std +.030, +.040 and +.060 dish is available and will make 9.0:1 with a 64cc head, NOT THE HEAVY CAST PISTONS
Also a set of the hastings moly performance rings KING lead indium performance rod and main bearings
This kit is external balance.
We balance these assemblies in house on our hines balancer all the time for $100

This kit is rated to 500HP



------------------------------------------------------------------------



So thats what i found, That is $550....$650 BALANCED.....is this worth it, is it reliable, and can it take a 150 shot.....and take a decent beating......Truthfully....

if there is a better deal out there, someone let me know, i wish to get a kit ordered by monday....so i need help on a decision!!!

If anyone wants to bs about this engine im going to build, just IM me so we dont clog up posts....AspiredTwo on aim.

 

if 1000 dollars is all you have you better save up some more jack before you start. 1000 dollars will bearly cover machine work and a few random parts. i think a 4000 dollar budget is a bit more realistic. i just got some parts from jegs yesterday that totaled 1000 dollars and it not half of the parts cost for my 408. you need forged parts with a power adder.

 

uhhh....1000 in a machine shop?? no way.....power adder?? such as blower or nitrous??? i want this to be naturally aspirated....i seen kits for 650 bucks......


like i said....i have a 1000 dollar budget for the parts for the bottom half......not including the heads

 

you said 150 shot of nitrous and then you said na, do you have any idea what you really want?


then you said if not a 4 bolt then off to the machien shop, have any idea what a set of main caps cost plus the extra bolts? how about how much the machine shop will charge to install the caps?

i think you need to sit down and figure out what you want and then take a look at what you can afford to do.

 

thats wtf im doing...and when you saw poer adder i think of something thats being used constantly .ie supercharger...blower....

my engine MAY already be a 4 bolt. i said if it is a 4 bolt then it goes to the machine shop...if not it gets sold for Pecans .

if its 4 BOLT IM KEEPING IT AND PROLLY GOING TO KEEP IT A 350...I DONT SEE A 383 AS A GOOD DAILY DRIVER, ESPECIALLY WHEN I GO OUT OF TOWN ALOT...GAS PRICES SUCK ....damn caps lock....to hell with retyping all that......

i dont know WTF i wanna do, thats why i keep posting lol....if i knew, i wouldnt ask for ideas, id just do it.

what exactly has to be done to convert to roller,. i have to go to the machine shop and basicly tell them what to do....so what needs to be done to the block?

350, forged pistons and rods. cast crank. good cam.

thats the plan. now...anyone know any decently priced kits that resemble this?

 

Sean, you might have what you need to build a $1000 stroker, but from what you're asking, It's clear to see that you don't have the background.
You can't expect to go online and find some guy who will explain what you need to know to rebuild an engine, especially a stroker. There's too much to it. They have books for that.
You have a block that might not even need machine work, That's good.
What overbore size is your block, do you know?
What heads are on it?

Screw nitrous... and screw using those 58cc 416 heads... and while you're at it screw that 4 bolt retrofit idea. You're on a strict budget here, but you can probably make a reliable 400 HP anyhow.

Stock 5.56" rods, Reconditioned, Bushed (or equivalent) $150- $175
Speed Pro hyper flattops $90
Cast crank $125- $175
76cc iron heads (from your 350)
Summit cam/ lifters $80
Preassemble your block, check for rod to cam/ rod to block clearances, check deck clearance.
Grind clearances, deck block to zero.
BINGO! You Got A Stroker!
The prices mentioned above are for 5.56" rods and matching pistons. The least expensive choice, but not the best. 5.7" is better but more $$
If there's anything that you don't understand about what I just said, find some books on engine building and study up. Do some searches.

Good luck, Happy New Year

 

http://www.enginekits.com/

 

Be carefull abt the enginekits.com (I.E. Powerhouse) kits. I bought one. The pistons hit the counterbalancer. When I called them abt it, they said to grind the counterweights

When I installed my LPE74211 cam, I ran into cam clearance problems with the heads of the rod bolts (used their CR3 rods). Tried to grind, but ran out of material. Wound up having to buy some Eagle H-beams. Since the H-beams used a floating pin, I have to buy another set of pistons too. All I used from the pre-balanced kit was the crank, flex plate, balancer and some gaskets. Then I had to re-balance it all over again.

If I was you, I'd be looking at an Eagle rotating assy with H-beam rods.

The 2 bolt main is plenty strong for a street eng. When's the last time you saw a street eng break a main cap??

If you really want to go cheap, I have the pistons (.30 over 9:1 comp with 64cc heads) and rods left over from my stroker kit. I'll sell them cheap.

 

Scat cap screw rods look like a good choice too, you can grind all you need to without removing a bolt head.

Sorry to hear about your misfortune with the 383 kit ZZ28ZZ. What brand / part# are those pistons? Maybe I'll get em.

 

The pistons have "Powerhouse" stamped into them. Not sure who makes them.

 

I'll let someone else take advantage of that great deal. I'm looking for KB or Speed Pro.
Thanks though.
Take note folks: There's a difference between a "budget priced" kit and a "cheap" kit.