I see my 88 GTA still has the smog pump and all the emissions stuff that goes with the pump.Is there any horse power gain by removing it and if so how do you remove it or where can you get it removed.If the smog equipment ever goes bad what kind of problems can it cause for your car.Could it cause any problems like you car smoking out of the exhaust?

 

My (limited) understanding is that the horsepower gain is negligible and that removing it may cause problems with your cat, assuming that it hasn't been gutted or piped through.

My cat is gutted and I bought an idler pulley to replace the smog pump; the smog pump is held in place by two long Torx bolts if I recall correctly.

I don't know what sorts of problems - if any - can be caused by removing the smog pump other than possible cat problems. Hope this helps or at least points you in the right direction.

- 89_IROC

 

where did you buy that? or where could I find one...

 

You don't need an idler pulley. You just need a 96.7" belt and reroute the belt as is shown here.
https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/t...rpentine.shtml

 

once again .... Ive learned somethin new, thanks for the info!:hail:

 

I got the idler pulley for mine, it is a 1990 5.7 with the serpentine belt. The distance between the crank pulley and the A.C. compressor was so far without the air pump that the belt flopped around quite a bit. The pulley looks factory also. I got mine off of ebay a couple of months ago, but I am sure there are other
places you can get them.

http://cgi.aol.ebay.com/ebaymotors/w...tem=2429421159

 

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I found mine on ebay for approximately $50 shipped, but I had to make a minor modification or two to set it up to my satisfaction. Let me know if you want the details and I might be able to snap a pic or two.


Insomniac92z28 - I know that I could've found a different belt, but that looks "jerry rigged" to me. No offense to you if that's how you did it, but I wanted a more stock-looking appearance.

- 89_IROC

 

Im still looking to get rid of my A/C pump ...so I been looking for the pulley that will delete it...no luck,really sucks having a big pump that isnt being used

Hey guys any info on where to get the delete pulley for my A/C pump ???

 

so could a bad smog set up cause your car to smoke,does anyone know???Thanks.....Al in NJ

 

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Z dude, you can get an 'A/C delete' pulley from your local Chevy dealer (probably...I got one from my dealer last June). I don't have the part number handy, but if you do a search on here or tell the parts counter guys that you need an 'A/C delete' pulley for a 1LE car, you can find what you need. Make SURE that you tell the parts guys what type of engine you have because there are different pulleys for TPI and LT1 engines (I found out the hard way). The pulley will cost approximately $65.

Alternatively, you could check ebay. HTH.

- 89_IROC

 

Josh, I used the factory size belt (Goodyear Gatorback) with factory belt routing. Let me know if/when you plan on doing this and I'll see about getting a pic or two for you; I have to crawl around under the car soon to change plugs and wires (again) anyway. I'll take a look tomorrow and see if I can get a decent shot from the top, but I don't think I'll be able to get a picture of my "modification" from that angle.

- 89_IROC

 

It just occurred to me to add this, but if you remove your smog pump, you're also going to have to remove (or plug) the tube coming from the cat to the pump and you're also going to have to cap off your A.I.R. tubes (or remove them and plug the exhaust manifolds if you have stock manifolds). Let me know and I can take some pics of my setup.

- 89_IROC

 

thanks I'll try that

 

Hey 89 IROC, my question is if you remove the pump and lines, do you also remove the diverter assembly? And if you do, does it trigger the service light with a stock prom?

 

Pat, I removed everything that was part of the smog system, including the hose that connects the two A.I.R. tubes; I capped the A.I.R. tubes off with a couple of screw-on caps from Lowe's after coating the threads with PTFE sealant and I've had no SES lights at all with the stock PROM and no performance-related issues that I can tell.

- 89_IROC

 

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Josh (and anyone else who's interested),

My file sizes are too big to post here, so check out

http://www.umr.edu/~ray/images/smog

for 3 pictures.

The two numbers on my belt packaging are '6PK2400' and '4060945'. It's a Goodyear Gatorback Poly-V belt.

Here's an explanation of why I did what I did: The A/C compressor bracket is held to the block by 4 Torx bolts (I think that they're all Torx...) - two at the very bottom and two that go through the smog pump (those two are very long). The two short bolts that come with the smog delete pulley only attach the pulley to the A/C compressor bracket, but they don't go all the way through to the block so you lose the two long Torx bolts.

I didn't feel very safe at all about that, so I took a stack of washers, wrapped them with duct tape (the cure-all ), and used them as a giant spacer for the long Torx bolt on the upper bracket (see picture).

Since the Torx bolt is larger in diameter than the bolts that come with the delete pulley, I took the Torx bolt and the bracket to a machinist and had him drill the bracket hole so that the bolt would just fit through it. Without the stack of washers to act as a spacer, there's nothing to secure the delete pulley in place to keep it from sliding back and forth on that Torx bolt.

Is it "jerry-rigged"? Sure. Is it safer and more secure this way? I think so. Can anyone see that it's jerry-rigged? Not unless they know exactly what they're looking for from under the car.

Feel free to give me some feedback on this and ask questions if the pics aren't clear. My solution is by no means the first, the last, or the best.

- 89_IROC

 

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Josh,

Yes, the two 'stock' bolts simply attached the pulley to the A/C compressor bracket and did NOT go all the way through to the block - they're only 2.5-3 inches long.

Using the factory Torx bolt that goes all the way through to the block required that the upper smog-delete bracket hole be drilled out because the hole is too small; since there are threads in that hole for the 'stock' bolt, drilling it out will destroy those threads and allow the smog-delete bracket to slide around when you mount it to the A/C compressor bracket. That's why I used the stack of washers - they eliminate the aforementioned play by giving the upper part of the smog-delete bracket nowhere to move.

I suppose I could've done the same thing to the bottom hole, but i was more concerned about the upper one at the time. Does this explanation make any more sense?

Thanks for the tip about the tensioner - I'll look into that. Maybe I need the ribbed pulley after all to get a proper fit. The belt doesn't feel loose and there's still room to adjust the tensioner, but it's still something that I should look into.

- 89_IROC

edit: You're right - it DOES just bolt right in, but by doing that you lose the two long Torx bolts that hold the A/C compressor bracket to the block because the holes in the smog-delete bracket are threaded and too small. Once you drill the holes out to accommodate the stock Torx bolts, you lose the threads and then you'll need something to hold the bracket in place so your belt doesn't fall off.

 

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Hm...I wouldn't mind getting my hands on one of those. I wish I'd found that before I bought what I have now, but live and learn. It's not like I can't get the grooved one and replace what I have now; after all, if I'm not always working on the car then something really IS wrong

- 89_IROC

 

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Here is a link of where I bought mine from (and a picture of it installed), it is the last item shown on this page. I cant remember which belt I used, but I think it was the 970K6. It is routed like the pictures that joshwilson3 has posted.


Click Here

 

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The picture above doesn't make sense to me,this delete thing does almost nothing, waste of money.
I just removed everything this summer, fitted a shorter belt, and everything is running fine, no slap or whatsoever, the tensioner is there to take out any slap remember!
The main reason to remove air stuf for me is to clean up the engine bay, so why removing one and adding another item?!

 

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Here's another example of using the smog pump delete pulley. I originally ran no delete pulley for ~3yrs. No problems whatsoever ... and that was revving it up to 6600rpms. I finally installed one just to see if I would notice a difference. I noticed no difference at all. I used the belt recommended in the tech article for underdrive pulleys. Currently using the March Power and Amp 3-Piece aluminum pulleys.

http://www.celligent.com/tim/iroc/progress/p1002007.jpg

Tim

 

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https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/t...rpentine.shtml

Tim

 

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Dutch-Bird,

I did this for two reasons:

1. Removing the smog pump does give the engine bay a cleaner, neater appearance.

2. Replacing the smog pump with a delete pulley while using the factory belt routing gives the engine a more stock-looking appearance. Additionally, the delete pulley is not nearly as bulky as the smog pump, so as far as I'm concerned it doesn't constitute "adding another item".

Simply removing the smog pump and using a shorter belt looks "jerry-rigged" - unprofessional - to me; it's a matter of personal opinion. I don't like how that looks, so I installed the delete pulley, but to each his/her own, right?

- 89_IROC

 

Josh,

I have no hard evidence to back the Gatorback belt; I use it because I used to run Gatorback tires and never, EVER had problems with them - they were excellent tires in my layman's opinion. Also, I may be a sucker for buying into it, but when I see a big name (such as Goodyear) I think of higher quality.

Generally speaking, I think that it's just a matter of personal preference and experience - the things that have worked for you in the past.

FWIW, the belt claims to be quieter, but this is my second Gatorback belt and I really haven't noticed a difference in noise level

- 89_IROC

 

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Maybe $26 and some change from AutoZone? I don't remember the exact amount, but $26 is pretty close.

- 89_IROC

 

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1) The tensioner is fine on my setup ... it's not out of whack.
2) It's suppose to be better. Who knows. Maybe - Maybe Not. I bought it because it was available at the local shop and wasn't much more expensive.

Tim

 

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Here is a better picture of my tensioner. I am not sure of the belt size, but I think it is the same one used for the pump delete without a pulley. The belt is in perfect relation to the belt guard that is on the alternator bracket under the radiator hose.

 

The tensioner *should* be kept in that range. Mine is more tight than loose. It's just in the range. Here is a better picture.

http://www.celligent.com/tim/iroc/progress/P1002006.jpg

... I haven't looked at it lately but that was when I first installed the belt. It's probably a little more in the range now after running it for several hundred miles.

Tim

 

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Well, after reading all the above posts I dicided to get me one of those items as well.
I ordered part.nr. 10129569 together with the torx bolts.
Today I got everything from one of the few GM dealers overhere, costed me $90 though........owning an American car IS expensive here!!
So I have work to do next spring,because the Bird is stored for winter now.
One more question for 1990 GTA, did you use the two short torx bolts to mount the delete pulley, or did you mounted it the way 89-iroc-98u described?

 

Dutch-Bird, I used the bolts that came with the pulley.

 

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I think this is a great thread. It looks like with an underdrive crank pulley the belt is barely making contact with the delete pulley anyways. I think I agree that the ribbed pulley would be better.

 

I personaly think it's great when the belt nearly touches the delete pulley, (that's why I ordered the non ribbed one!!).
This pulley is only there to prevent the belt to "flop", no more.
Currently I drive without the pump (or the pulley) just with a somewhat shorter belt, and everything is fine, I just like to try this pulley for safety reasons, no belt flop!
I also like the somewhat smaller look of the non ribbed pulley, after all, one of the reasons for me to remove the smogpump, was to clean up the engine bay, so I don't want to fit a "large" delete pulley!

 

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I can't see the pics.

 

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